plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
10-4
340 Engine Shake
- Thread starter plumkrazee70
- Start date
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10-4
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
That could be the oil pump pressure relief valve opening and closing which would calm down with some heat in the oil.
Pull the oil filter and cut it open for inspection, if you have a bearing isuue you will find it in the filter media.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
I've never had that happen before and since the oil pump is driven from the distributor, it just seemed like a symptom of the problem.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Is the engine rpm jumping around in sync with the oil pressure?
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
No. The only other symptom is the engine surges or shakes. I'm going to pick up a manual guage tonight to be sure.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
I'd rule out a sensor issue, but that would be the concern - an issue with the pump/distributor drive.
I suspect it's actually an intermittent ground issue. I ran a spare battery ground cable from where my main ground connects at the head to one of the flange bolts on my Fitech. No idea if it did anything, but figured a good ground couldn't hurt.
I'd add battery volts to your 'large gauges' and see if it fluctuates at all at idle, or in time with the shake. I highly doubt the pressure is actually fluctuating, but adding a T and running a mech gauge is a good idea.
erectrics and old cars are a problem waiting to be solved , wires grounds who knows what on a 50 year old car . that is one strange problem , hope it is just electric or gauge problem . Has this engine ever been run as built ? IE carb orig type ignition be nice to know if the engine did run well at one time in it's past . Hope your on the road soon running properly
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
So the car has been COMPLETELY rebuilt, just in stages. The original wire harness is gone and it has been rewired with an EZ wire kit. The motor was built in 2012 and it did run (with a different cam and heads) and it ran just fine, with the EFI. After it was built the front end was next on the list and since the motor came out to do all the front end rebuild, it spiraled into a full blow resto mod.
Fast forward to today, I had the opportunity to pick up a 4 speed so I rebuilt that and put a new cam and aluminum heads on while the engine was out. So maybe the new cam has something to do with it, its the only thing thats changed besides the heads
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
You could throw the original cam back in and see what happens if it comes down to that...I did watch the video, and at first glance it seemed like an aggressive cam lope, but then I saw that rhythmic vibration pattern...its a stumper for sure.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
The main reason why I upgraded the cam was to take advantage of the aluminum heads. Otherwise I would have left it. This is the one I had before. COMP Cams CL20-212-2: High Energy 268H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit Lift: .454" /454" Duration: 268°/268° RPM Range: 1500-5500 - JEGS High Performance
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
"Surges" implies a fluctuation in engine rpm.
I'll stand by the pump relief valve opening and closing. If you had a bad ground the other gauges would also bounce around.
You have other problems to solve first
Take them one at a time, if you make a bunch of changes to quickly you'll never get figured out.
I still want to see the plugs.
Where do the gauges get their power? I wonder if somehow they're interfering with the ignition?
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
You're right. I'm getting overwhelmed with my mind going to different possibilities. Here are the pics of the plugs. I took these a few days ago.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Not 100% which circuit it is in the EZ wore panel, but it's isolated from the ignition, meaning it's not the same circuit. I believe it's labeled as guage power.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
I'm gonna have it towed to a Mopar friends shop tomorrow to see if he can figure it out, since he has more time.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Only shows fire to that plug. If there is some crazy, valve event or some crap, the spark drop would tell ya. Yes, if no change, plug it back, and jump to the next one. Disregard, I didn't read far enough into post
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plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
I don't believe so, but I will double check the radiator level.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Spark plugs are hard to read due to lack of driving time, but that's OK we can work with what we got here.
I dont like what I see.
Plugs look cold, werid color variations
No 3 looks dead lean and may not be firing
Timing mark is to faint to read, needs some road time.
That's a lot of double speak man. No offense meant.
"Not 100% sure" followed closely by "but it's isolated from the ignition".
It's this kinda thinkin that can lead to you forever chasing your tail. VERIFY it. Don't just assume. You obviously have SOMETHING GOING ON SOMEWHERE and this kinda talk and attitude ain't gonna find it. You need to have an open mind to every possibility, or it'll end up someone else's project car when you've had enough.
I agree one or two of the plugs look lean, but they all look like they're firing and burning fuel.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
You're right. I can trace back to where they plug in and unplug them and see if anything changes.
Now you're talkin. If you can totally disconnect them, that's the ticket. It may not be it, but at least you'll KNOW instead of not knowing. Then, you can mark that off the list.
Road Grabber
Well-Known Member
A lot of great feedback. I just wanted to mention checking firing order on the plug wires and make sure you didn’t throw a weight off your pressure plate.
Did you have the pressure plate balanced?
I had this problem with an imbalanced flywheel and it shook the side view mirror. Also disconnect your belt and do a sort test without turning the alternator. They can produce a very large vibration.
good luck
Did you have the pressure plate balanced?
I had this problem with an imbalanced flywheel and it shook the side view mirror. Also disconnect your belt and do a sort test without turning the alternator. They can produce a very large vibration.
good luck
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