340 Roller Cam/Lifter Issues.

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don't think much of comp cam rep's , did an old school hotrod p/u for a friend . he wanted a blown chevy in it , so the engine builder called comp about cams , mind you this is just a hotrod driver , not a racer . cam lube seperation was based at 109 with a couple of degree lead , overlapping int/exh lubes , on a blown street motor ?! should have been 114 to 116 straight up with no overlapping for that tight full hooded sleeper machine , the thing ran hot until you were on the freeway . have talk with a few different cam grinders now , and one said that tight of centers , some lube overlap just sends or blows fuel out into the exhaust . not what a blown street motor needs .
 
Well, if the cam is still good, which you say it is, and it ran good, I would stick with it. That will also be the least expensive way out.

Unless you just want to change brands. At any rate, post up your specs and we can go from there. It sounds like it was a good match to me though.
Yes, the cam is fine. Its the lifters and pushrods that are the issue now. Can I use a different companies lifters with this cam?
 
Here are the engine specs:
- 340 Small Block Blueprinted and Balanced
- Forged stock crank
- SFI Billet Steel Flywheel
- Centerforce D/F clutch
- Keith Black 0.030 over cast pistons cut to 9.3CR
- Forged rods with ARP Waveloc bolts
- Kevko oil pan
- Melling HV oil pump
- Comp Cams XR286HR-10 Hyd Roller Cam at 105 degree C/L 13 degree @ 050
.544 lift / 286 Duration
- Comp Cams Double Roller Timing Chain
- Comp Cams 8920-16 retro hyd roller lifters
- Comp Cams Double valve springs (140/385 spring pressures)
- Hughes 1502 1.5 ratio roller rocker kit with holddowns
- Hughes custom built pushrods: 5/16" x .083" 4130 HT 7.900"
- Single groove valve stems
- Ported J Heads @ 68cc w/ 2.02" intake and 1.60 exhaust valves
- Edelbrock 7576 Dual Plane air gap intake
- Holley Terminator EFI
- MSD Pro Billet Distributor
- MSD Blaster 2 Coil
- MSD 6AL-2 Ignition box
 
You could check with Hughes. Or MRL. Or any number of other guys who do lifters and see what they recommend. Either way I wouldn't be giving one more dollar to comp if I was you.
 
Oh so this is a stock stroke 340? I don't know why but I was thinkin it was a stroker.

I am not sure I would change the cam. It's lookin like a good match to me. And like I said earlier, it will be the most cost effective repair to reuse it.

I'd get all that paint off it though. lol
 
You could check with Hughes. Or MRL. Or any number of other guys who do lifters and see what they recommend. Either way I wouldn't be giving one more dollar to comp if I was you.
OK I will make some calls tomorrow. I know that I have had good experiences with both Dave and Mike and Hughes and MRL.
 
Oh so this is a stock stroke 340? I don't know why but I was thinkin it was a stroker.

I am not sure I would change the cam. It's lookin like a good match to me. And like I said earlier, it will be the most cost effective repair to reuse it.

I'd get all that paint off it though. lol
Yes, its a stock stroke for now. When I lost the oil pressure and heard all the knocking, I was hoping it broke so I could make it a stroker. Everything checked good though. I already stripped all the paint off the cam and put a new oil pump in her so that part is good now.
 
Yes, its a stock stroke for now. When I lost the oil pressure and heard all the knocking, I was hoping it broke so I could make it a stroker. Everything checked good though. I already stripped all the paint off the cam and put a new oil pump in her so that part is good now.

I think it's gonna be fine. You're on the right track now. Get the lifter and pushrod issue straight and you'll be golden.

Oh and the way "I" would do it. Get the lifters FIRST. Then, measure for the correct length pushrods. If you go to another brand and type of lifter, you never know what differences there will be there. Always best to measure. Then you will get the right length pushrods the first time.
 
throw a couple of old lifters and a couple of new on a scale, a few grams either way is nothing. I would run it easy and see
 
throw a couple of old lifters and a couple of new on a scale, a few grams either way is nothing. I would run it easy and see

I was gonna suggest the same, but seeing how the plunger height is different......I wouldn't be goin for it. lol
 
Two years ago they did a major re-design on these lifters and beefed them up due to failures.

Red Flag, Red Flag!

If that's the case I would be demanding a complete set "on the house"!

That is if you decide to keep the cam in there.
 
a re-design? I am going to call : Goodyear and demand some new tires, Comp. for some new solid lifters with the edm oil hole, Edelbrock for a performer rpm cuz my old LD340 sucks, Harland Sharp cuz they have re-designed since 1980, Chrysler cuz instead of my 742 8.75" they should send me a 489, etc. etc. If this is what we want we would still only have flathead engines and points ignitions and bias tires
 
a re-design? I am going to call : Goodyear and demand some new tires, Comp. for some new solid lifters with the edm oil hole, Edelbrock for a performer rpm cuz my old LD340 sucks, Harland Sharp cuz they have re-designed since 1980, Chrysler cuz instead of my 742 8.75" they should send me a 489, etc. etc. If this is what we want we would still only have flathead engines and points ignitions and bias tires

There's a difference between changes that come as a result of enhancement and new tech, and changes made because the original design was inadequate. It's not like their lifters predate the factory roller hardware or is offered as a budget item.

If comp was having failures, I'd call the original design inadequate. Especially since they supply the mating hardware (cams, springs). So all those comparisons above are apples to oranges.

If nothing else, I'd be telling the comp rep on the phone "so you FIXED the design, but want me to run with 14 of your shitty versions next to two that are fixed? Sounds like something other customers should be aware of and that I should look elsewhere for quality hardware" because that's the reality. With all the competition in the space, they shouldn't have to be convinced to make it right for the customer, especially when they're full of crap (Re: paint). I'd call back and hope for a different rep and see if that particular person didn't wake up with a bug in their rear.
 
Puzackly. I couldn't have said it any better.

There's a difference between changes that come as a result of enhancement and new tech, and changes made because the original design was inadequate. It's not like their lifters predate the factory roller hardware or is offered as a budget item.

If comp was having failures, I'd call the original design inadequate. Especially since they supply the mating hardware (cams, springs). So all those comparisons above are apples to oranges.

If nothing else, I'd be telling the comp rep on the phone "so you FIXED the design, but want me to run with 14 of your shitty versions next to two that are fixed? Sounds like something other customers should be aware of and that I should look elsewhere for quality hardware" because that's the reality. With all the competition in the space, they shouldn't have to be convinced to make it right for the customer, especially when they're full of crap (Re: paint). I'd call back and hope for a different rep and see if that particular person didn't wake up with a bug in their rear.
 
There's a difference between changes that come as a result of enhancement and new tech, and changes made because the original design was inadequate. It's not like their lifters predate the factory roller hardware or is offered as a budget item.

If comp was having failures, I'd call the original design inadequate. Especially since they supply the mating hardware (cams, springs). So all those comparisons above are apples to oranges.

If nothing else, I'd be telling the comp rep on the phone "so you FIXED the design, but want me to run with 14 of your shitty versions next to two that are fixed? Sounds like something other customers should be aware of and that I should look elsewhere for quality hardware" because that's the reality. With all the competition in the space, they shouldn't have to be convinced to make it right for the customer, especially when they're full of crap (Re: paint). I'd call back and hope for a different rep and see if that particular person didn't wake up with a bug in their rear.
Well said! I think that I will call again, because I am still torqued over that conversation. Too bad they dont have a head guy to talk with...or do they?
 
Everybody's got a boss. Even the CEO/owner of a company has a boss. The customer.
 
Here is a picture of the paint they put on the cam grind I received. They cant say they dont paint them because it even shows it on their site. WTF is wrong with these people. So in the future, I know to sand off this paint if its there. Please learn from my predicament.

cca-08-409-8_w_xl.jpg
 
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Well said! I think that I will call again, because I am still torqued over that conversation. Too bad they dont have a head guy to talk with...or do they?
Seriously.... you will get further with the big boss with a long, detailed letter. Stick to the facts and don't get on your high horse; if this went down as you say, just the story as is will get you somewhere.
 
For whatever its worth I run the same cam with the Hughes lifters, lots of hard miles and no problems at all.
 
COMP SUCKS.

HAS FOR YEARS.

Jim at Racer Brown for cams, or Cam Motion. MRL for lifters.

I'd use the cam you have, and just get new lifters.


COMP SUCKS.
 
COMP SUCKS.

HAS FOR YEARS.

Jim at Racer Brown for cams, or Cam Motion. MRL for lifters.

I'd use the cam you have, and just get new lifters.


COMP SUCKS.

Don't hold back now, ya here? lol
 
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