340 Starting issue

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Thanks for all the responses. This has been a 3 year project with everything new including the numbers matching motor rebuild. I had the car done and drove it down the street and back. Then it quit running and will not run. I have done the following . . .

I have power. As I said it will start and run for a few seconds then quit. Since I have driven it I know that I have power. I know that the key has 3 positions, all the way forward is start, release and it is run, then back is off.
It originally wasn't pulling fuel from the tank so I put a slight amount of air pressure in the tank and it pushed fuel up to the motor. I have a glass fuel filter so I can see the furl flow. It would keep fuel pumped up so I changed the mechanical pump and got the same thing. So I put in an electric fuel pump. I originally kept the mechanical pump and hooked the electrical to it. The car ran and drove like that until now. I switched the electric to direct to the carb and still the same issue. I thought the rebuilt carb may be the issue so I put a brand new one in it and have the same issue. It seemed that there was too much fuel so I put in an inline fuel regulator and still have the same issues. I am at a loss.
 
You say you are at a loss but you are not interested in answering questions. WE AREN'T THERE WE cannot see what you see. Good luck with it
 
1972trucks said:
What question haven't I answered????
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You gotta re ead their questions. You keep repeating what you've already done.

Saying you have power means nothing, you have to check for voltage at certain places on the ballast and/or bypass it to rule that out. Just as a start.
 
To all. . . I am sorry about missing the question. I guess that I assumed that it running an starting meant that I did have power even though it would only run for a few seconds.
Thankfully I finally did get it running. Iwent to the lowest setting on the regulator and have the air/fuel screws to bare minimums. Took it for a drive. Runs well. Thank you to all for the responses.
 
So many weird things can go wrong! Many years ago we had a Ford escort that kept stopping but after a while would start up and go as normal again. We eventually found out there was a loose baffle in the muffler that would stand up and block the exhaust completely but would fall back down again and appear to be normal. We replaced the muffler and all was good again!
 
James Clews said:
So many weird things can go wrong! Many years ago we had a Ford escort that kept stopping but after a while would start up and go as normal again. We eventually found out there was a loose baffle in the muffler that would stand up and block the exhaust completely but would fall back down again and appear to be normal. We replaced the muffler and all was good again!
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Now THAT Is Some CRAZY crap right there! Lol I've heard of the same thing in toilets..... tampons, matchbook cars, stuff gets lodged then falls back flat w/ no flow
 
Sounds like the time I found a rag in my gas tank.
Duh! I don’t know how it got there. But same symptom.
 
Don't throw parts at it is my suggestion. Do test to rule things out.

Fuel from pump to tank. Get a fuel can with some fresh gas in it, disconnect feed side at pump and hook up a loose hose, stick other end in the jug. Start it up. Did it fix it? No, that part of the system isn't your likely issue.

I've had cars where the wires at the coil were loose. Car runs for a little time, but, slow sputters and dies. Check those connections.

Test one thing at a time. Starts and dies, fuel, loss of ignition (coil/bulkhead/igh1 and ign2 wires). A test light is really useful for ignition testing. Positive side of the coil, does it stay on at all times?

Just have to attack it systematically.

Good that you got it running...
 
At first thought i am thinking vacuum leak or carb issue but it's true check for spark then go after fuel etc. Rule things out. I had mine shut off on me once and it was a lose wire at the coil so it could be anything but OP has to rule things out and no throwing parts that's too expensive..
 
Got in running. I ended up having to put a low pressure fuel pump in line. Still using the mechanical pump. Put it on and the car fired right up
 
When in got my current Duster, we couldn't get the 318 to run, so pulled my 340, 727, and 4:10 set outta the Sat. Car would idle in the driveway for 20-30 minutes. Drive it? It would shut down after a mile or so. Got her home, and pulled Sender.. looked like the inside of a volcano or something in there...... that was the problem
 
1972trucks said:
Got in running. I ended up having to put a low pressure fuel pump in line. Still using the mechanical pump. Put it on and the car fired right up
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Well that settles it. This should be a sticky. We ALL need to put low pressure electric pumps on our Mopars. Evidently Chrysler didn't know what the hell they were doin.
 
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