340ci vs 360ci engine

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Demon340GSS said:
I agree with that statement.
The 340 makes more power and rev's quicker and has a higher upper rpm limit when in stock form over a 360 set up the same way in my opinion.
360's did not come with full bushed rods and steel cranks and good pistons in stock form and the 340's from 67 thru 71 did come this way.
even the 72 and 73 340's still have full floating pins and run fair on todays gas still.
I recommend the 360 though for they are more plentifull and if you hurt it then you are not ruining a 340 motor that could have been saved for a restoration.
Save the 340 for a true 340 car and restore it.
If you want a hot street car thats ok, .
The 340's are harder to find, But I bet you can get a 360 for next to nothing at a wrecking yard or ebay. Maybe even for free!
Be dollars ahead and be real about your expected performance level.
If you are not planning on reving the motor past 6,000 rpm then still stay with the 360.
Or if you want a go faster, or more rpm.. then chose the 340 or build a 360 using the full bushed rods and change to a steel crank instead of the cast. The dragonslayer is a great stroker crank in either application..
Built up a 340 still will outperform a 360 usually in my opinion, even in the stroker versions and full race.
Just my thoughts in print.
And I own a bunch of them 340's!
Grant Eaton 407-947-9005
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dont know how bushed rods makes an engine rev faster...weight of the pistons, rods and cranks usually determines how fast an engine can rev...called physics...

as far as reving a 360...never seen a stock cast crank 360 break...used to rev one 7500 rpm for two years... a bushed connecting rod broke..not the crank.

as far as making hp in the upper rpm...cylinder heads is what make hp...the short block is just pumping air thru them...

360 pistons are lighter then 340 in stock form...by over 100 gram...x 8 is 800 grams...which is almost 2 pounds...they use the same rods...and the 360 crank is lighter since it is cast..and balanced for a liter pistons...

in fact 360 pistons will always be lighter then a 340 due to the compression height of the pistons with the 360 having a longer stroke and both engines using the same deck height blocks.

take a 5 pound hammer and swing it...and take a 2 pound hammer and swing it....which one swings faster???? 2 pounds.....physics...
 
Dont know how many have read the 2 articles that are out about making a 318 to make 400+ horses? Some one showed it to me because someone else said "keep the 318 if made right it could be a great performance engine." So should I make a new thread talking about the 318 build (no stroking involved) or buying a 360 and putting that in instead? Or will you guys give me a answer???
 
The Chargers are cool and now it's totally outside of this discussion but I'd go with a stroker 400 R block if I were building a B-body. There was actually a 400 block and a 500" stroker kit from 440source on our Craigslist last week for $500. It's gone now! That makes awesome power but revs better then the 440. It seems performance heads and stroker kits are a little less for the big blocks then the small blocks, and a B-body has all the room in the world under the hood. Also those years of Chargers you are looking at very likely might come with a 400 under the hood.

Also do you know about moparts.com they have a very good and organized classified section.
 
340s are nice but high in price, very rare

360s are dime a dozen, ton of parts, looks just like a 340, if it breaks you don't have worry about finding another one.
 
abodyjoe said:
i would buy the 340. then sell the 340 to a numbers guy for a nice little profit then go buy the 360 and have spare money around for more stuff. :)
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I agree especially if it's a non original 340 car that you own. A built 360 will run just as well as a built 340. I'm speaking from experience of my last two Dusters.
 
Torque is the number one smile maker on the street. A 360 is going to have more torque than your 318 because of the longer stroke of the 360 crank. I went from a 273 (318 isn't really that much bigger) to a 360 and I am completely satisfied with it's performance. I would not waste another penny on the 318.... you will be sorry if you do. I wasted some money on the 273 and still didn't get the performance I wanted until the 360. Just trying to save you some money and time.
 
Take those article with a grain of salt.

The dyno they used is notoriously happy.
 
70aarcuda said:
dont know how bushed rods makes an engine rev faster...weight of the pistons, rods and cranks usually determines how fast an engine can rev...called physics...

as far as reving a 360...never seen a stock cast crank 360 break...used to rev one 7500 rpm for two years... a bushed connecting rod broke..not the crank.

as far as making hp in the upper rpm...cylinder heads is what make hp...the short block is just pumping air thru them...

360 pistons are lighter then 340 in stock form...by over 100 gram...x 8 is 800 grams...which is almost 2 pounds...they use the same rods...and the 360 crank is lighter since it is cast..and balanced for a liter pistons...

in fact 360 pistons will always be lighter then a 340 due to the compression height of the pistons with the 360 having a longer stroke and both engines using the same deck height blocks.

take a 5 pound hammer and swing it...and take a 2 pound hammer and swing it....which one swings faster???? 2 pounds.....physics...
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Thank you AAR. Why don't those 360's get more respect from the 340 crowd??
 
Just out of curiosity if you made a 318 into a 300+ hp engine or even 400+ hp would you or could you put a 727 trans on it? Im just wondering because im thinking about possibley keeping the 318 when I buy my car the possibly buying a 69 ( charger duster demon not sure yet ) and maybe putting the fixed 318 in that ( or a 360 or 340 ) and selling its 318 or slant 6 or whatever. Im not sure what I should do for a complete set up. So what do you guys think about a 727 trans on a fixed up 318?
 
AxelsMopar said:
Just out of curiosity if you made a 318 into a 300+ hp engine or even 400+ hp would you or could you put a 727 trans on it? Im just wondering because im thinking about possibley keeping the 318 when I buy my car the possibly buying a 69 ( charger duster demon not sure yet ) and maybe putting the fixed 318 in that ( or a 360 or 340 ) and selling its 318 or slant 6 or whatever. Im not sure what I should do for a complete set up. So what do you guys think about a 727 trans on a fixed up 318?
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318s are probably different than a 273 but you just about have to give them away. My 273 I had a gave to a friend of mine in which it is collecting dust right now. There was awhile back a fellow on here that was giving away a 318 as long as someone would pick it up. Weeks went buy with no one responding. I'm not sure about the 727 on a 318... it might be that it will fit in a B-body easier than a A-body. Others will answer that question for you. I know I would rather spend my money on a 360 than a 318 but that is just me.
 
Well on the dc forum some of them showed me the articles and then others told about there success story with a modded 318 and the hp and there low cost. Now alot said keep the 318 buy the 360 and do what the articles said but on the 360. This would get even more HP and might be worth it.
 
70aarcuda said:
dont know how bushed rods makes an engine rev faster...weight of the pistons, rods and cranks usually determines how fast an engine can rev...called physics...

as far as reving a 360...never seen a stock cast crank 360 break...used to rev one 7500 rpm for two years... a bushed connecting rod broke..not the crank.

as far as making hp in the upper rpm...cylinder heads is what make hp...the short block is just pumping air thru them...

360 pistons are lighter then 340 in stock form...by over 100 gram...x 8 is 800 grams...which is almost 2 pounds...they use the same rods...and the 360 crank is lighter since it is cast..and balanced for a liter pistons...

in fact 360 pistons will always be lighter then a 340 due to the compression height of the pistons with the 360 having a longer stroke and both engines using the same deck height blocks.

take a 5 pound hammer and swing it...and take a 2 pound hammer and swing it....which one swings faster???? 2 pounds.....physics...
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Just puttin this out there... recently had my 340 rotating assembly internally balanced, .030 over ... bob weight 2086.


L2316 Battle Ships

Forged steel crank 20/20

Speed pro 5/64 ring pak (Moly rings file fit)

Scat pro-comp rods 7/16" cap screws

Full groove Clevite 77 mains, 77 rod bearings


Not too bad in my book for an engine seeing mainly street duty.

2167 for a stock 360 is what I have read, and I have much better components. - Jus my 2.
 
340 vs 360, hmmm.

Depends on the 340 and what the end use of the engine is going to be.

68-71 340s are my choice for the same money. Big valves, high compression, & forged crank. Best for competition.

My dream small block is a 340 B&S to 355 set up for street & mild comp. To my way of thinking both HP & torque get boosted without excessive piston speed.

Other than the 68-71 340, I'd take the 360 for street use.
 
ganggreen said:
Just puttin this out there... recently had my 340 rotating assembly internally balanced, .030 over ... bob weight 2086.


L2316 Battle Ships

Forged steel crank 20/20

Speed pro 5/64 ring pak (Moly rings file fit)

Scat pro-comp rods 7/16" cap screws

Full groove Clevite 77 mains, 77 rod bearings


Not too bad in my book for an engine seeing mainly street duty.

2167 for a stock 360 is what I have read, and I have much better components. - Jus my 2.
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The same set up with a 360 piston would be in the low 1900's is my guess.

The rods make a huge difference in bob compared to stock rods. That's still pretty heavy by todays standards with some 360 stuff coming in at 1750 range when using better components.

I had a KB 107, stock rod combo come in at 2070 IIRC.
 
The 727 comes in two styles, a small block bell housing and big block, any small block one will bolt to any LA small block (will NOT bolt to an A) and any big block one will bolt to any B/RB motor. NOW, I do not know about trans tunnel clearance issues and I believe if you started with a 904 you will need a different cross member and drive shaft.
 
Is there any difference is the block between a 340 and 360 aside from bore? I was looking into swapping my 318 out for a stroker or stroking it, but didn't know what all the blocks would handle. I assume the 318 bottom end won't really like holding up to 400+ horse or is it 4 bolt mains? Would there really be any difference bottom end between a 340 and 360 or will they both take power equally well? I expect a blower to go on top at some point, but that's a fair deal in the future.
 
I have no idea.... Im asking things like which ones better and which ones cheaper. I was also asking about little cheap modds for a 318...
 
Map63Vette said:
Is there any difference is the block between a 340 and 360 aside from bore? I was looking into swapping my 318 out for a stroker or stroking it, but didn't know what all the blocks would handle. I assume the 318 bottom end won't really like holding up to 400+ horse or is it 4 bolt mains? Would there really be any difference bottom end between a 340 and 360 or will they both take power equally well? I expect a blower to go on top at some point, but that's a fair deal in the future.
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The stroke between the 360 and 340 is different. The 340 is 3.31 and the 360 is 3.58.
 
Map63Vette said:
Is there any difference is the block between a 340 and 360 aside from bore? I was looking into swapping my 318 out for a stroker or stroking it, but didn't know what all the blocks would handle. I assume the 318 bottom end won't really like holding up to 400+ horse or is it 4 bolt mains? Would there really be any difference bottom end between a 340 and 360 or will they both take power equally well? I expect a blower to go on top at some point, but that's a fair deal in the future.
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yes,..the main bearing sizes are different..so the cranks can not be inter changed ...unless you want to cut the 360 crank to 340 main size..

yes..you can stroke your 318 to a 390 using a 4 inch stroke for a 318/340 block..

4 inch crank...I beam rods...and KB make forged pistons for that set up..but it would be wise to change out the cylinder heads too..cause your 318 heads are not going to feed 390 cu inches..
 
How much will the stock bottom ends hold? If I stroke any of the three is one going to stand up to the power better (ie 4 bolt mains as opposed to 2, etc.)?
 
i would agree with everyone about 340 being more money... i run a 68 340 in my formula s on nitrous and it rips for what it is. but even when not on nitrous still very fun to drive. revs so high

i also run a 360 30 over with a 6 pack in a 72 cuda and it runs as well.

all depends on what pistons, heads, cam, intake, carb, tranny, gearing to make you feel the power.

im sure if a 360 had come out in 69-70 it would of been a hot piece from factory but 360 come in to late.

if you get a car with a 318 id run it and upgrade other stuff. 318 go decent...beats a 6 cyl to start with
 
im pretty sure 340's were 2 bolt not 100 percent

i know a 70 340 ta block had extra webbing. I have one under my bench i took out of my cuda and put a 360 in place for a runner.

theres an article in one of my books where they took a semi stock form 318 put a procharger on it and made a bit over 500 hp
 
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