moparduster
Well-Known Member
What exactly do i have to do to set my engine at 35 degrees?
35 degrees timing ?
- Thread starter moparduster
- Start date
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Give us some more info on your engine. Dizzy, spark box, points? We don't know what you have so it is hard to say what to do.
Jack
Jack
nqkjw
Well-Known Member
Mark your balancer as in the pic of the one on my 440 before I bought a Romac balancer.
Hold your engine at abt 3000rpm or high enough so it's not advancing any more.
Adjust your dizzy so your mark 35deg mark lines up with 0 on the scale on the timing case cover.
Job's done.
Hold your engine at abt 3000rpm or high enough so it's not advancing any more.
Adjust your dizzy so your mark 35deg mark lines up with 0 on the scale on the timing case cover.
Job's done.
dgc333
Well-Known Member
What nqkjw described is only 1/2 the equation, initial timing is every bit as important if you drive your car on the street.
If your engine has been modified with a bigger cam, ported heads, increased compression, etc. the initial timing spec from the factory is no longer valid. If you have a stock engine then nqkjw's instructions will get you close as will just setting the timing to the factory receomended initial timing.
If you want to really dial in the timing to get the best idle quality, throttle reponse and make your carb tuning much easier then you need to establish what the engine needs for initial which will very likely require you to get into the distributor to maintain the 34-36 that your engine wants (based on your user name I am assuming sb LA with open chamber heads).
Initial timing is established by adding or subtracting timing to get maximum manifold vacuum while maintaining a constant rpm. That is change the timing a small amount and readjust the idle and keep repeating until maximum manifld vacuum is found.
If you have a cam with significantly more duration than stock don't be surprised if you find the initial up in the 20 degrees BTDC. A number like this will definately require you to reduce the mechanical advance in the distributor.
This is where an aftermarket distributor from Mopar Perfromance, MSD, Accel, Mallory, etc. will make your life easier, they have adjustable mechanical advance stops. If you are going to use your factory distributor you will either need to use epoxy or weld up the slots to reduce the amount of advance.
Once you get the initial and total right you can start to play with the advance springs. Again for a street driven vehicle you want the timing all in in the 2500 +/- rpm range.
If your engine has been modified with a bigger cam, ported heads, increased compression, etc. the initial timing spec from the factory is no longer valid. If you have a stock engine then nqkjw's instructions will get you close as will just setting the timing to the factory receomended initial timing.
If you want to really dial in the timing to get the best idle quality, throttle reponse and make your carb tuning much easier then you need to establish what the engine needs for initial which will very likely require you to get into the distributor to maintain the 34-36 that your engine wants (based on your user name I am assuming sb LA with open chamber heads).
Initial timing is established by adding or subtracting timing to get maximum manifold vacuum while maintaining a constant rpm. That is change the timing a small amount and readjust the idle and keep repeating until maximum manifld vacuum is found.
If you have a cam with significantly more duration than stock don't be surprised if you find the initial up in the 20 degrees BTDC. A number like this will definately require you to reduce the mechanical advance in the distributor.
This is where an aftermarket distributor from Mopar Perfromance, MSD, Accel, Mallory, etc. will make your life easier, they have adjustable mechanical advance stops. If you are going to use your factory distributor you will either need to use epoxy or weld up the slots to reduce the amount of advance.
Once you get the initial and total right you can start to play with the advance springs. Again for a street driven vehicle you want the timing all in in the 2500 +/- rpm range.
nqkjw
Well-Known Member
I agree wholeheartedly with Dave.
I was just answering the initial (no pun intended LOL)question.
FWIW I always set timing by total and then check the initial to see if I'm happy with it.
If I'm not,then it's recurve time!!!
I was just answering the initial (no pun intended LOL)question.
FWIW I always set timing by total and then check the initial to see if I'm happy with it.
If I'm not,then it's recurve time!!!
moparduster
Well-Known Member
Here is the engine set up. 360 60 over 10.5 pistons. purple shaft i think 320 duration. .533 lift, m1 holley 750 dp. mopar dist. msd 6al. Factory heads with just a little bit of work. headers.
moparduster
Well-Known Member
727 3500 stall, manuel valve body, 8 3/4 4.56, spool 29x10.5-15s
You will definitely need to re curve your dist! 320* of duration!
You will need LOTS of initial and that will require a lot less centrifugal advance to make it work right!
If you dis has 26* of advance in it(like mine did) and you set it a 20* initial, and add 26 centrifugal advance you will be 46* total[-X
If you want to get the best out of that cam, it need to be re-curved.
JMHO
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