$35 Electric Power Steering with Fail-Safe - No eBay module and no caster issues!!!

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waid302 said:
It has been a while since I posted on this forum. I am not making or selling anything. I have posted this on couple of other forums and this is not for everyone.

Some of you have manual steering and I though you might like to see how added electric assisted power steering in my 1964 Falcon. Some of you may have come across the Saturn Vue conversions but I think I have found even cheaper and better alternative with no caster issues!

My testing shows that most Japanese branded cars and SUV with electric steering works in Fail-Safe mode if the control unit (ECU) is disconnected from CAN BUS. The effort in Fail-Safe mode feels just right like my 2013 Honda Civic. Not too much and not too little. Just like Hydraulic Steering, if the Electric Assisted Steering completely fails, the steering is back to completely manual mode maintaining car control.

The biggest advantage of using EPS from Toyota, Nissan and Kia/Hyundai is that the EPS works in Fail-Safe. The ECU for the column is mounted remotely and cab be disconnected and removed. The EPS from Saturn Vue and Chevy Cobalt has the ECU that cannot be disconnected and must be de-soldered for remote mount. More importantly there is no Fail-Safe and a 3rd party eBay module is needed in order for it to work. Additionally , people have reported that with after market eBay module, the Saturn EPS does not self center the steering wheel coming out of a turn. You have to make constant corrections.

Below is the list of Car that I know of that has Fail-Safe Electric Steering. Only 3 wire connection. Ignition On, Power and Ground to the Steering ECU. That's it !

2004-2009 Toyota Prius
2009-2013 Toyota Corolla
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS)
2007-2009 Nissan Versa
2009-2012 Nissan Cube
2012-2014 Kia Soul

ECU Part Numbers:

2004-2009 Toyota Prius 89650-47102
2009-2013 Toyota Corolla 89650-02300
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS) 89650-52120 / 52050
2007-2009 Nissan Versa 28500-EM30A / 991-30303
2009-2012 Nissan Cube 28500-1FC0B / JL501-000932
2012-2014 Kia Soul B2563-99500 / 4PSG1312 / FPSG1312

The output shaft on Toyota is little larger than the rest and therefore the Borgeson 312500, 11/16 36 X 3/4 smooth bore weldable coupling should fits nicely. This couple fits the others as well. The Kia EPS is the biggest and appears to be most heavy duty. The Prius & Corolla EPS are very easy to find at salvage yards so this is the best bet. I picked up these EPS for testing for $35 each at my local pic-a-part

Note: As with any modification, there are risks. This post is intended to show how I did my modification. Use it at your own risk!

Waid

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Waid , I have read this info. very informative. ? I have an EPAS form a HHR ,Do you anything about these as far as going to fail safe
 
moparmat2000 said:
Oh ok, so get a power box just for its ratio and use it like a manual box with no hydraulics hooked to it. I think you can now buy brand new 16.1 manual boxes though.
Click to expand...

I agree and yes you can get the 16:1 box now.

My question is, if I pick up a steering column from one of the models listed, will I also get the the eps motor and ecu?
 
waid302 said:
Wiring Diagrams. Only 3 wires are needed. Power, Ground and Ignition On

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This is a great write up, I am doing this in my 1968 dart. I am also using a modern drivetrain that will have Can-bus any idea if I could hook up the two Can-bus wires from the Nissan Versa to the Can-bus from my 2016 challenger engine swap? Thanks for any advice.
 
waid302 said:
It has been a while since I posted on this forum. I am not making or selling anything. I have posted this on couple of other forums and this is not for everyone.

Some of you have manual steering and I though you might like to see how added electric assisted power steering in my 1964 Falcon. Some of you may have come across the Saturn Vue conversions but I think I have found even cheaper and better alternative with no caster issues!

My testing shows that most Japanese branded cars and SUV with electric steering works in Fail-Safe mode if the control unit (ECU) is disconnected from CAN BUS. The effort in Fail-Safe mode feels just right like my 2013 Honda Civic. Not too much and not too little. Just like Hydraulic Steering, if the Electric Assisted Steering completely fails, the steering is back to completely manual mode maintaining car control.

The biggest advantage of using EPS from Toyota, Nissan and Kia/Hyundai is that the EPS works in Fail-Safe. The ECU for the column is mounted remotely and cab be disconnected and removed. The EPS from Saturn Vue and Chevy Cobalt has the ECU that cannot be disconnected and must be de-soldered for remote mount. More importantly there is no Fail-Safe and a 3rd party eBay module is needed in order for it to work. Additionally , people have reported that with after market eBay module, the Saturn EPS does not self center the steering wheel coming out of a turn. You have to make constant corrections.

Below is the list of Car that I know of that has Fail-Safe Electric Steering. Only 3 wire connection. Ignition On, Power and Ground to the Steering ECU. That's it !

2004-2009 Toyota Prius
2009-2013 Toyota Corolla
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS)
2007-2009 Nissan Versa
2009-2012 Nissan Cube
2012-2014 Kia Soul

ECU Part Numbers:

2004-2009 Toyota Prius 89650-47102
2009-2013 Toyota Corolla 89650-02300
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS) 89650-52120 / 52050
2007-2009 Nissan Versa 28500-EM30A / 991-30303
2009-2012 Nissan Cube 28500-1FC0B / JL501-000932
2012-2014 Kia Soul B2563-99500 / 4PSG1312 / FPSG1312

The output shaft on Toyota is little larger than the rest and therefore the Borgeson 312500, 11/16 36 X 3/4 smooth bore weldable coupling should fits nicely. This couple fits the others as well. The Kia EPS is the biggest and appears to be most heavy duty. The Prius & Corolla EPS are very easy to find at salvage yards so this is the best bet. I picked up these EPS for testing for $35 each at my local pic-a-part

Note: As with any modification, there are risks. This post is intended to show how I did my modification. Use it at your own risk!

Waid

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waid302 said:
Tested one more EPS / ECU that works in fail-safe/limp home mode with fixed level of assist. 2008-2011 Scion XD

2008-2011 Scion XD It's almost identical to Prius. The Prius, Yaris and Scion Xd ECU share same exact plug and works with each other.

ECU Part Numbers that function in fail-safe / limp-home mode:

2004-2009 Toyota Prius 89650-47102
2009-2013 Toyota Corolla 89650-02300
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS) 89650-52120 / 52050
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (Non-ABS) 89650-52070 & 520140
2007-2009 Nissan Versa 28500-EM30A / 991-30303
2009-2012 Nissan Cube 28500-1FC0B / JL501-000932
2012-2014 Kia Soul B2563-99500 / 4PSG1312 / FPSG1312
2008-2011 Scion XD 89650-52A10
Click to expand...
waid302 said:
It has been a while since I posted on this forum. I am not making or selling anything. I have posted this on couple of other forums and this is not for everyone.

Some of you have manual steering and I though you might like to see how added electric assisted power steering in my 1964 Falcon. Some of you may have come across the Saturn Vue conversions but I think I have found even cheaper and better alternative with no caster issues!

My testing shows that most Japanese branded cars and SUV with electric steering works in Fail-Safe mode if the control unit (ECU) is disconnected from CAN BUS. The effort in Fail-Safe mode feels just right like my 2013 Honda Civic. Not too much and not too little. Just like Hydraulic Steering, if the Electric Assisted Steering completely fails, the steering is back to completely manual mode maintaining car control.

The biggest advantage of using EPS from Toyota, Nissan and Kia/Hyundai is that the EPS works in Fail-Safe. The ECU for the column is mounted remotely and cab be disconnected and removed. The EPS from Saturn Vue and Chevy Cobalt has the ECU that cannot be disconnected and must be de-soldered for remote mount. More importantly there is no Fail-Safe and a 3rd party eBay module is needed in order for it to work. Additionally , people have reported that with after market eBay module, the Saturn EPS does not self center the steering wheel coming out of a turn. You have to make constant corrections.

Below is the list of Car that I know of that has Fail-Safe Electric Steering. Only 3 wire connection. Ignition On, Power and Ground to the Steering ECU. That's it !

2004-2009 Toyota Prius
2009-2013 Toyota Corolla
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS)
2007-2009 Nissan Versa
2009-2012 Nissan Cube
2012-2014 Kia Soul

ECU Part Numbers:

2004-2009 Toyota Prius 89650-47102
2009-2013 Toyota Corolla 89650-02300
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS) 89650-52120 / 52050
2007-2009 Nissan Versa 28500-EM30A / 991-30303
2009-2012 Nissan Cube 28500-1FC0B / JL501-000932
2012-2014 Kia Soul B2563-99500 / 4PSG1312 / FPSG1312

The output shaft on Toyota is little larger than the rest and therefore the Borgeson 312500, 11/16 36 X 3/4 smooth bore weldable coupling should fits nicely. This couple fits the others as well. The Kia EPS is the biggest and appears to be most heavy duty. The Prius & Corolla EPS are very easy to find at salvage yards so this is the best bet. I picked up these EPS for testing for $35 each at my local pic-a-part

Note: As with any modification, there are risks. This post is intended to show how I did my modification. Use it at your own risk!

Waid

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Waid, I purchased a Toyota Prius motor and computer box. When hooked up to a battery, the computer sometimes clicks once and the motor will operate only for about 2 seconds and then shuts off and I then have to detach and touch the ignition wire again to the positive pole of the battery to get the motor to operate. Sometimes when I connect the ignition wire, the box clicks twice and I get no motor movement. Bottom line is that I do not get more that a couple of seconds of use out of the motor before it quits working again. Note, I am using motorcycle battery and am wondering if that could be the problem. Any ideas from anyone.
 
Waid, I purchased a Toyota Prius motor and computer box. When hooked up to a battery, the computer sometimes clicks once and the motor will operate only for about 2 seconds and then shuts off and I then have to detach and touch the ignition wire again to the positive pole of the battery to get the motor to operate. Sometimes when I connect the ignition wire, the box clicks twice and I get no motor movement. Bottom line is that I do not get more that a couple of seconds of use out of the motor before it quits working again. Note, I am using motorcycle battery and am wondering if that could be the problem. Any ideas from anyone?
 
JohnBruce said:
Waid, I purchased a Toyota Prius motor and computer box. When hooked up to a battery, the computer sometimes clicks once and the motor will operate only for about 2 seconds and then shuts off and I then have to detach and touch the ignition wire again to the positive pole of the battery to get the motor to operate. Sometimes when I connect the ignition wire, the box clicks twice and I get no motor movement. Bottom line is that I do not get more that a couple of seconds of use out of the motor before it quits working again. Note, I am using motorcycle battery and am wondering if that could be the problem. Any ideas from anyone?
Click to expand...

Said hasn't posted here in a long time. I don't believe he is a frequent member. If the battery is low, it couldn't definitely throw off the motor. Otherwise I am not sure. You may try doing some searching. This swap is very popular with the mustang crowd.
 
waid302 said:
Saturn is the largest with Prius about 1/5 smaller and yaris about 1/3 smaller.
Click to expand...
Hi, Hope you are still around to answer questions. I'm working on adding power assist to my 69 MGB GT. Based on your list I picked up a unit from a 2008 Nissan Versa. Unfortunately, I did not get the wiring harness (and custom plugs). So I have a wire 4-pin male 'out' pigtail from the torques sensor, and an 18-pin male 'input' on the ECU. Wires from the Torque sensor are Black, Red, Yellow & white. Do you know which goes where?
 
Noel Currie said:
When you are 73 and have arthritis in your wrists, you'll need power assist too.
Noel
Click to expand...

Well I AM 72 and have body and joint pain throughout. I just never figgured a B would need power LOL
 
Hi all, I have a Yaris EPS with his ECU and I am not able to bring it to life .I do not know if the EPS comes from a ABS version.
When I put 12 v on pin 6 the ECU clicks twice and nothing happens when I turn the steering wheel.
What can I do with pin 5 ? I tried to put a 12v signal on it ...nothing, tried to put a pulse signal from a hall sensor ...nothing
The strange thing is that when I cut the 12v signal on pin 6 the ECU clicks but continue to draw some current from the battery and if I disconnect the battery on main power wire the ECU clicks again...
Many thanks in advance for your expertise
 
moparmat2000 said:
Oh ok, so get a power box just for its ratio and use it like a manual box with no hydraulics hooked to it. I think you can now buy brand new 16.1 manual boxes though.
Click to expand...

I have a 16:1 manual box from PST. Effort is manageable but I want to do this conversion to make it really nice.
 
PierreW said:
Hi all, I have a Yaris EPS with his ECU and I am not able to bring it to life .I do not know if the EPS comes from a ABS version.
When I put 12 v on pin 6 the ECU clicks twice and nothing happens when I turn the steering wheel.
What can I do with pin 5 ? I tried to put a 12v signal on it ...nothing, tried to put a pulse signal from a hall sensor ...nothing
The strange thing is that when I cut the 12v signal on pin 6 the ECU clicks but continue to draw some current from the battery and if I disconnect the battery on main power wire the ECU clicks again...
Many thanks in advance for your expertise
Click to expand...

Is the column mounted or testing it in the bench? If testing on the bench, you have to lock the output shaft in a vice. If the torque sensor doesn't get any resistance, it won't actuate the motor.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Is the column mounted or testing it in the bench? If testing on the bench, you have to lock the output shaft in a vice. If the torque sensor doesn't get any resistance, it won't actuate the motor.
Click to expand...
Yes the output shaft is locked of course :)
 
PierreW said:
Hi all, I have a Yaris EPS with his ECU and I am not able to bring it to life .I do not know if the EPS comes from a ABS version.
When I put 12 v on pin 6 the ECU clicks twice and nothing happens when I turn the steering wheel.
What can I do with pin 5 ? I tried to put a 12v signal on it ...nothing, tried to put a pulse signal from a hall sensor ...nothing
The strange thing is that when I cut the 12v signal on pin 6 the ECU clicks but continue to draw some current from the battery and if I disconnect the battery on main power wire the ECU clicks again...
Many thanks in advance for your expertise
Click to expand...
Complementary info: - main power ON : no current consumption
- ignition switch on : ECU clicks twice, temporary current drain then no consumption (double click=relay activated then desactivated?)
- ignition switch off: ECU clicks and little permanent current drain,what is not "normal" (relay activated?)
- main power disconnected : ECU clicks (probably relay desactivated?)
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Hmm. Not sure. Can you post a pic if your ecu and your motor?
Click to expand...
Hi thank you for your help I hope the pictures will be transferred :)

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Let me compare to what I have at home. I have an extra motor and and ecu. I took my stuff out of a Prius and Corolla.
 
I converted my '73 Dart over to a Prius EPAS system, but it doesn't seem to be giving assist in the Fail-safe mode as you suggested. I have the box wired as you describe, but my question is, do you need the plug that runs from the box to the torque sensor on the unit plugged in to work correctly?
 
waid302 said:
I am using Yaris non-ABS ECU with Prius column. It will not work with any other column. I am using pulse generator for now and later will add pulse generator from the reluctor wheel on my Ford 8.8 which will gave me variable speed dependent assist.

Waid
Click to expand...
I have converted my '73 Dart over to a PriusEPAS system, however it seems it's not giving any assist even in Fail-safe mode. MY question is, It's wired like you said, but does the torque sensor plug need to be plugged in or not to work?
 
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