360 46RE driveline swap, wont shift

-
player1up

player1up

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
1,732
Reaction score
41
Location
orlando FL
I finally got the Duster out on the road last night only to find that it wont shift.
While I'm digging back through the service manual today, I figured I'd get everyone's feedback on what it could be.

The driveline is a 99 Dakota 360 with the factory efi still in place, a 46RE ( 8pin plug ) from a Dodge RAM.
Symptoms:
When in drive it will shift into second some of the time, but will hold 1st for a long time.
Will shift from 1st to 2nd when manually moving lever from 1 to 2 but will not shift into 3rd when moving lever into D from 2.

I've replaced the output speed sensor but the old one ohm'd out the same as the new one. I've also adjusted the TV cable numerous times.

I'm wondering if I cut something out of the harness that is needed.
I don't have any history of the trans other than it was working fine when removed from the truck and it'd been rebuilt less than 10k miles ago.

What do you all think?

UPDATE:
I've been reading around and found some possible causes, but I'm going to have a hard time diagnosing some of them as I don't have the ODBII connector wired in.
Could be solenoid pack, 8pin connector issues among other things. I'm going to install the electric speedo drive unit tonight and see if it needs the output from that to be able to shift it because it shifts from 1-2 manually.
If time permits I'll start checking the wiring....ugh...
 
Ok, well I checked just about everything. I've verified that the trans control relay is still part of the power distribution block and is sending power to the trans. The output speed sensor is still there but the electric speedo drive unit is not applicable in this situation as the harness doesn't have a plug for it...
I think the next task is to pull the pan and at least clean the screen on the solenoid pack if not replace the solenoids and governor pressure sensor...
 
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is no longer used for any Dodge Truck.

Vehicle speed and distance covered are measured by the Rear Wheel Speed Sensor. The sensor is mounted to the rear axle. A signal is sent from this sensor to the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB) computer. A signal is then sent from the CAB to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to determine vehicle speed and distance covered. The PCM will then determine strategies for speed control system operation.

I would bet if you could read codes you would have P0500 set
SYMPTOM
P-0500 NO VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL

TEST NOTE
All symptoms listed above are diagnosed using the same tests. The title for the tests will be P-0500 NO VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL.

SET CONDITION 1
The code is set if no Vehicle speed is received from the CAB Module for more than 15 seconds for 2 consecutive trips.

WHEN MONITORED 1
With the Engine running, Automatic Transmission in drive, and Output shaft speed greater than 64 rpm , ECT above 104°F , MAP vacuum 15 to 16" and Engine rpm greater than 1500 .

SET CONDITION 2
This code will set if no Vehicle Speed Signal is received from the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) Module for more than 15 seconds for 2 consecutive trips.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
Cab module diagnostic trouble codes
Vehicle speed signal circuit open
Vehicle speed signal circuit shorted to voltage
Controller antilock brakes defective
PCM defective (no vehicle speed sensor signal)
Vehicle speed sensor wiring harness observable defect
Vehicle speed signal circuit short to ground

The only version that will work that i know of is a 46rh with out the pcm controll of the shifting.
 
Thank you Sir, That's what I needed to know.
I know I'm not the only nut job here so I know it's been done. ;) I think I just need some more info.

In theory... I'd need the ABS computer, differential sensor and associated wiring? correct?
Do I still need the wheel sensors? I don't think so as I don't care if the abs thinks the wheels are locked as long as it wont freak out the PCM ( those would be a little more difficult to "create" )
I might be able to get away with using the sensor that's in the 8.8 rear that I have now, but that's take even more research...

Oh, I did pop the pan off the trans and it's freakin beautiful inside. Right on par with the story that it was rebuilt recently, even the governor solenoid looks like it was installed yesterday....it'll get a new filter and gasket while I'm in there, but that's it.
 
I hope it is something simple in the electrical because that sounds exactly like what my old 700r4 camaro trans did when I blew the sprag/overrunning clutch.
 
I just went thru a similar issue with a 99 Durango 360 w/r46re. Was driving the vehicle had a check engine light come on. No shift out of first slipping so had it towed home. Checked codes found one for idle air control circuit, another for trans gov pressure offset, third one I don't remember. Pulled trans pan to replace gov pressure control solenoid and pressure/temp sensor (gov pressure was a borg warner and press/temp was mopar parts). Found part of overdrive retaining ring in pan. Had trans and convertor rebuilt. After reinstalling trans still throwing codes. Trouble shoot down to PCM failure which I believe started the whole crap ball rolling. Trans still was coding gov pressure offset, running in limp mode after replacing pcm. As I had already replaced the gov press solenoid and pressure sensor the trans shop used them. I ordered the modified DNJ governor pressure solenoid and another pressure/temp sensor to install. Which cured the issue. I had gone thru the wiring and checked resistance values of the sensors and things from the PCM thru the transmission back to the PCM and all was good. After the second set of gov solenoid and pressure sensor all has been well. I guess where I am going is that even though the parts were new do NOT discount them being defective. Also how is the throttle valve control cable operating and do you have return spring installed? Just some quick thoughts on my part. Sorry so long winded.
 
Thanks for all of the replies! I know too well about getting bad "new" parts. Again, no problems here re-checking stuff. I'm getting old and have been known to overlook the simplest of things :lol:
This ended up being a little odd.
I ended up going all the way back through the wiring, cleaning the solenoids, new filter and fluid and it works. Shifts nice and firm AND where it's supposed to shift.
The goofy thing is that I'm not really sure what the issue was. All I did was a very light cleaning and since the pan was off I replaced the filter...and the old one didn't look all that bad.

So, the only things the PCM needs to be able to shift the RE trans is the 8-pin ( routed properly back to the PCM) , output speed sensor ( the white one in the trans ), the trans relay ( to power the 8-pin ), and the throttle valve cable.
I'm sure that it also needs the throttle position sensor and some other sensors from the engine, but it's really that simple :lol:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top