360=500hp

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93toyota

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How could you go about making a 360 have 500hp without stroking it out? Do you have such a combo? Please post your 360 combo so that I can get an idea of what to do? Thanks
 
Easy..rev it. W series heads, compression. Almost any level can be gotten from any engine, but the higher the figure, the more you need to compromise one thing for another. as an example..bigger port heads you may give up some low end, to get peak power. High compression, you give up pump gas...etc. Perhaps know what you want to accomplish with that car/engine would be a better place to start. Keep in mind, it's not a 360 any more with a 4" crank...
 
Also, adding stroke adds torque more than HP to the engine. Thats the best part of stroking an engine IMO along with peak power coming in a few RPM's earlier.

93toyota;

On the Edelbrock web site, theres an article called "Feeling light headed."
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/stories/hpm907/index.html
This engine build almost makes 500 hp. A quote from the magazine article,
the 360 produced and amazing 499 lb-ft of torque at 4,500 rpm and 497 horsepower at 6,000 rpm
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The head porting they did was not extensive and could be done easy by you or by a person that does this for a living for cheap. Well worth the investment.
 
93toyota said:
How could you go about making a 360 have 500hp without stroking it out? Do you have such a combo? Please post your 360 combo so that I can get an idea of what to do? Thanks
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What do you want to do with this new found HP?
 
70Barracuda said:
What do you want to do with this new found HP?
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<LOL> Same thing we all want to do, idle around town. Ha ha ha ha ha......
 
Thats funny Rumble. You know why? I have a less than 1 year old 378 inch 340 that flat out gets it. I am good friends with Don so it's all top of the line stuff and tuned to the max and I want a big block now! My car is a factory 383. Now I want a stroked 383!

WERE ALL SICK IN THE HEAD!!!
 
500hp from a small cube motor is going to be a handful for a dailey driver. My 480hp 340 wont idle below 1200rpms, makes peak torque at 5200rpms and runs rough below 2000rpms.
 
BJR Racing said:
Moper,
He said NOT STROKING IT!


BJR Racing
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Billy, RIF! (R)eading (I)s (F)undamental. I said to rev it. That last part is to counter guys who say "i run a 340 with a 4" crank..." or similar 360s. Keeping the 360 displacement just means the power at a higher peak. I find a lot of guys like to say "I built a 360.." when in reality, it's a 408. That's what I meant. Little touchy on the stroking deal, arent we...lol?

MIKESDUSTER has a 340 that has ported J heads on it. With a longer (360 is 3.58 ) stroke, and a solid cam, it would easily top 500 hp without Edelbrocks or W2s. But, the peaks will be in the 4500 and 6000 rpm ranges, which IMO is a little high for most street cars. It can make for a soft feel driving around town with the required convertor, and numerically high rear gear ratio.
 
Moper,
Sounds like your following the BowTie handbook closely, as all of the posts that you post follow there guidelines more so than mopar. Long strokes, short rods, lots of compression, big port heads, humm? Maybe you should get a Mopar racing manual and read it, lots of interesting stuff in there, it might change your mind on how to build engines. You may also learn something in the process.
No I'm not touchy on strokers, I just look at it like nitrous, its for people that don't know how to make HP.



BJR Racing
 
BJR Racing said:
No I'm not touchy on strokers, I just look at it like nitrous, its for people that don't know how to make HP.
BJR Racing
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I disagree, Strokers are for people who dont want to have to buzz a motor sky high to make power. Longer stroke = lower pwer curve no matter what logo is on the valve covers. A 4" stroker crank would tame my motor down tons with out losing power.
 
As soon as I see 4 inch crank, I think waco torque. At least compared to the stock stroke. Thats what I would use the 4 incher for.
 
My motor is all heads and cam and rpms

Engine
* 1973 340 block
* decked to +.020 deck height(pistons above deck)
* bored .030 over
* Ross flat tops with max weight removal option*** and .927 pin bores
* B&B tool steel wrist pins, 2.500 X .927 X .090 wall(piston and pin 525g)
* OE rods bushed to .927, fully polished, resized, lightened, ARP bolts
* OE steel crank( reground, strokes equalized, indexed)
* Milodon deep pan
* Melling oil pump
* double roller timing set
* Crower 262/265 @ .050, .575/.585 solid lifter cam
* Crower lifters
* ported 587 heads with MP 2.02/1.60 valves, milled for true 11:1 CR
* bronze guides and hardened exhaust seats
* Crower dual springs
* Comp 10deg retainers and machined locks
* Edelbrock Victor intake, gasket matched, mild plenum mods
*HVH 1" spacer
*Profrom 750
* Harland Sharp 1.5 roller rockers and HD thick wall shafts
* Crane pushrods
* MP moly coated fuel pump eccentric
* MP OEM replacement 340 damper
 
BJR Racing said:
Moper,
Sounds like your following the BowTie handbook closely, as all of the posts that you post follow there guidelines more so than mopar. Long strokes, short rods, lots of compression, big port heads, humm? Maybe you should get a Mopar racing manual and read it, lots of interesting stuff in there, it might change your mind on how to build engines. You may also learn something in the process.
No I'm not touchy on strokers, I just look at it like nitrous, its for people that don't know how to make HP.



BJR Racing
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Only one chevy book I've read or paged thru. Leo Satucci's inline 6 book. Leo's a friend of mine, and I've pitted on his car, so that was more of a "cool idea" thing. He also runs 10.0s with a 292 Stovebolt 6 with sectionned/welded SBC Dart heads (try sticking them on a stovebolt block..), many block mods, and a single turbo. You and I obviously have some differences. I've only built about 5 strokers of various sizes in the past few years, the majority of my work is street/strip factory displacement rebuilt engines. Reality is, bigger cubes/longer strokes run much better for many applications than an old school "11.5:1 .509" type build, and require only marginally more work to tap into that power. Whether or not you agree with the practice. Add to that the quality of parts to support them has come way up and the price has come down in the last few years. Strange and sad how the quality of your much touted MP stuff has gone the other direction in the same amount of time. I find most of your info and posting very good, too bad you need to mock mine. All my books are dogeared from going back into them time after time. And yes, I read everything I can on any makes. But, I consider it a "price of doing business" to keep up with technology. There are an awful lot of larger shops that seem to agree with what you refer to as "my" way of thinking. I'm always one to question everything, and I find just as much guidance and help from backyarders and local racers as I do thru reading. Physics works no matter what emblem is on the block, or who made the valve or port. I'd like to think I just offer opinions here anyway. It's the buyer's/poster's decision. I'm working for him. It's part of my job to show all possible options, not to funnel them thru an MP catalog and 40 year old castings. Most prefer to stay with factory displacements, and I have no problem making the power they ask for with them. But some like the other options. I can see how a racer's shop like yours needs to fit into a set of rules that tells you what can and cant be run. I respect that. Dont bash me because my engines dont need to stay within those lines.
 
sounds like you guys need to settle this on pinks, since you got more time to bicker with eachother than to answer posts.
 
moper said:
RIF! (R)eading (I)s (F)undamental. I said to rev it.

Moper, I'm not bashing you but little things like this has a way of comming off very sarcastic.
I've also built strokers for others, but when you have the knowledge to make power and torque in the lower ranges it just seems more feasiable to me than spending a ton of other peoples money that most don't have to spend.


93 toyota,
Sorry for the misunderstanding on your thread, I won't say another word about this, as I said before it's your money so do with it as you wish. I'll not push "my" ideas on anyone anymore or offer soloutions. I'll keep my comments to my self.
Everyone has the right to make up there own minds.


BJR Racing
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Hey, no sweat. I really respect the mopar vets, you guys are badass. I just don't have the time I want to research with the new baby and the Airforce hounding me with work. One day I would like to become a part of a well established engine builder or have my own buisness, but building cars is hard on the body as well as the mind. Thanks for all your help. I will probably folow that light headed article pretty close. Keep in touch
 
Heres what I think on the 500 hp small block.

It can be done, however, as Adam's engine tells us 11.0 compression means he cant get on it with pump gas. I have 9.5 and need a few gallons of 110 to less than a 1/2 tank of 92 to quell the ping.

That is where more cubes comes in. Stroking is a definate way to add hp while keeping the compression to a streetable level. Although I think the 4 inch cranks are going too far. I know they work so I could be wrong there.

Like I said, my 378 inch 340. 60 over with a 360 crank makes around 440..450 by way of another engine on the dyno with less head, less cubes, same cam, manifold and carb. Is pretty choppy under 2300 RPM and pretty much a small handful.

BJR, can a 500 HP street 360 be built that runs on 92 withouf forcing the air?
I dont think so.
 
93toyota said:
pretty much drive to and from work and go to the track on the weekend
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I have a question for you. Does your budget allow for this engine that will run you well over $6000? Then a trans, converter, rear end, fuel system and the rest? It's really not my business, and maybe you have., however, I would like you to think about the whole package. Traction, tires, street and strip. ect.ect.ect.

Hey Rumble, How did those 8 3/4 stragng axles get twisted? I say go Dana 60 for all of us 1/4 milers. Do it once, do it right.
 
70Barracuda said:
BJR, can a 500 HP street 360 be built that runs on 92 withouf forcing the air?
I dont think so.
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Yes it can be built, very easily. Also with factory parts and some aftermarket.


BJR Racing
 
The only thing I can ad to this is that I am trying to make a 360 with 400 hp at my elevation, 5800 ft. I am open to any suggestions from experienced Mopar race people.
I am a heavy truck and diesel mechanic and I have been doing it for 25 years but I know that I have a lot to learn about making power without turbos or blowers as the diesel engines I work on all have. I also know that I will spend twice as much as I thought I would to make my power goals. Just my 2cent rant.
 
Nice, thanX for all the info in a nut shell for a build pros and cons. I say the hell with it just build a 440 and go big block.
 
BJR Racing said:
Yes it can be built, very easily. Also with factory parts and some aftermarket.


BJR Racing
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Care to share ? I dont doudt that it cam be done. My motor is old tech, it was built in the early 90s and just refreshed.

I cant see it being done with out a ton of head work or a real good aftermarket head.
 
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