360 build help

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SlinkyScamp72

SlinkyScamp72

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So I am finally getting around to having time and a place to work on my Scamp. However I am in desperate need of help putting the motor together. Is there anybody that could give time to help out a young guy in noblesville indiana? Thanks and any help is appreciated. PM me if interested or reply to thread.
 
Got a 360 bored 30 over and most of the lower engine components. Just need help with ins and outs of assembling a mopar engine. Only built a ford straight six before this.
 
Should no one reply. There is a great book called "How to rebuild your small block MoPar"' that I have Used over and over through out the years. Excellent book.
 
SlinkyScamp72 said:
Got a 360 bored 30 over and most of the lower engine components. Just need help with ins and outs of assembling a mopar engine. Only built a ford straight six before this.
Click to expand...

For the short block assembly there is not much to it:

Get some plastigauge, a ring compresser, a ring expander (or just carefully walk thej rings around the piston, I never broke a ring doing it), assembly lube (STP works on the bearings). Look up the torque values for the main and rod bolts. You may want to check piston to wall clearance, a feeler gauge works good enough. Check piston to deck clearances if the block has been zero decked. If you have standard rebuilder pistons and have not decked the block you won't have to worry about interference problems, they are usually .010-.020" shorter than factory pistons.

Use a new piston to push the compression rings into the cylinder bore so they are perfectly squared in the hole and check the ring gaps with a feeler gauge. The ring manufacturer usually gives the recommended gaps.

1-1/2 to 3 thousands max on the bearing clearances as a rule of thumb for a rebuild job. Really best to get a general assembly manual or a mopar bible. There are a ton of things a good engine book will tell you to do so you don't make any rookie mistakes.

I put my 360 together without a shop manual or anything but have had done a half dozen chevy engines before that. 15yrs later it still runs fine.

Follow the gasket manufacturers instructions for proper sealing and hone the cylinders for the type of rings you are using. Not much more complicated than that old Ford six you put together.

Make sure you use a good zddp fortified oil package when you break in the engine to prevent wiping out your cam lobes. Use cam mfgr recommended break in procedure/coat lobes with break in lube.
 
Have you tried contacting the Indy Mopar Club? Lots of good guys that might help you out.I'm close enough but I have absolutly no extra time right now.
 

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I don't know how anyone assembles an engine without a shop manual, at least until they "learn" the engine. The book posted above is very good. You can download a shop manual for free here: The year doesn't matter too much, as very little has changed, IE minor variances in the camshaft front oiling

72 Service Manual

[ame="http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf"]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf[/ame]

69 Dodge Serv. Manual

[ame]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/69%20dodge%20service%20manual.pdf[/ame]

70 Dart Challenger manual

[ame]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/70%20Dart%20Challenger%20Serv%20Man1.pdf[/ame]

71 Dodge Body Manual

http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc. car info/71DodgeBodyManua

There are an number of tricks that can gitcha if you aren't awake.

1--Several guys have had oil pressure problems. You must make sure that the little core plug is in place, which goes in the vertical oil passage going from the rear main up to the oil sender. If the block has been completely stripped and hot tanked, the others are

The screw in plugs in the rear of the block---there is one plug BEHIND the other the outer one behind the smaller inner plug.

And there's one in the oil filter mount. Make sure the two are installed in the front of the block behind the cam thrust plate. I dearly hope you have flushed/ blown out the oil passages to clean them.

CHECK the cam bearings to be sure the oil holes are rotationally aligned. You must have oil flow from the cam bearings up through the oil holes to the deck/ heads, and you must have the holes aligned down to the main bearings.

Be sure to check bearing clearance, if you have no other method, plastigauge is still available. Any parts store that calls itself a parts store should have one.

With some of the comments people have made claiming poor manufacturing tolerance, I would CERTAINLY degree your camshaft, and absolutely check your balancer for proper alignment of the timing mark to TDC. The rubber can allow slippage of the outer ring.

Use the proper cam break in lube, and prime the oil system, etc, so that you can fire the engine right up and break in the cam.

Under no conditions should you use a plastic cam sprocket.
 
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