360 build. Is this good street build? Heads work?

-
We had a similarly built one on the dyno here a couple years ago.
Was less CR and had the XE268 cam, Ede 750 carb.
Made like 368tq/332hp.
Hp peak occurred at 5100.
Nothing got cc’d, but it had stock replacement pistons that were way down the hole....... so it was probably about 8:1.

They were also hoping for 400.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I've run it .028 on the street no problems.
Someone i was talking to was actually running theirs tapping the heads by .0005 or so.... and it made more power that way rebounding off the chambers!
Cast or hyper cast would disintegrate in the scenario...but forged would take it...just change the rod bearing out every 2 races.lol
Click to expand...

My thought is if OP's combo was too close at .027 there would have been some bad news from the dyno run he posted about. Could be wrong.
 
QuickDart360 said:
Sounds ok. Not a fan of comp stuff. But as long as it set up right it should be good. One important thing is to set up cam with degree wheel or use 318 will runs advise on how to set cam up with no degree wheel. I run 3.91's out back. I don't do much highway. It speeds up pretty nicely. Had 3.55's before and they weren't so bad either.
Click to expand...
Ok thank you!
 
rumblefish360 said:
This could be a Big problem here as stated earlier!

I red “X’d” where someone said



This is a could be a massive error! Do the math, .039 - .012 =.027!
Be careful!!!!!!!
Put a .050 head gasket in there. It =‘s .038 clearance.

I do not like CompCams unless you have them modify the grind.
Your heads are (IMO) to small. Bowl Port those suckers.
A good racing valve job and a ported bowl area will be the best bang for the heads since that is where the valve is lifting.

Cars are capped? What rule is this?!?! You did say little 1/8 mile racing. Screw that rule!!!! That’s some dumb *** **** right there.

3.55’s are OK. 3.91’s would be really good!

Don’t be fooled in thinking that the larger runner is to big and it will hurt your performance.
Click to expand...
The pistons are .012 below deck.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Isn't bad.

The cam isn't getting the valve open that far is all. The heads aren't doing much around .450 lift. You could choose a lot better cam grind and have probably 20-30 more hp alone and not sacrifice any low end power.
Click to expand...
I was thinking that also. I was thinking the 20-227-4 cam . Mine is 230/236- .488/.491.
The 2274 cam is 231/237- .525/.525. So a little better lift. A guy on YouTube has almost the same stuff I do and he is at 420hp I think. Plus he has out of the box eddy heads. Since mine is all new- I will do that later lol.
 
mgoblue9798 said:
If you already have this bolted together then run it. It will be fun on the street. If not you may look at a different cam to get a little more out of it.

What kind of adapter are you using on the air gap to run the thermoquad?
Click to expand...
Just an 3/4" spreadbore to squarebore spacer. I don't remember if I have another spacer in there or not. I brought one to the dyno but I wasn't there when it ran and don't think it was used.
 
AJ/FormS said:
365/410 in a duster with 3.23s and a 3000 TC will be an awesome fun street machine.
=================
I used to run a combo that by it's trapspeed was only 335hp and I often hear myself say, that it was my all-time favorite combo. Mine had a 223/230/110cam with lift of .538/.549
I currently have a cam about the same as yours, namely; 230/237/110 cam but my lift with 1.6 arms comes to a gross of .549/.571, and I am at 10.95Scr, with a Q of ~.032. . By it's trapspeed and weight this comes to 430hp.
I have always said that I liked the smaller cam better. I have had this 230/237/110 cam since 2004, and I'm waiting for it to wear out, so I can get rid of it and go back at least one size.
====================
BTW-1
Do not worry about the "lack of top end" with the 230cam; you will not notice it until you hit third gear, and crossing ~5000 rpm, which with 3.23s and 26.5"tires will be ~110mph...... how often will you be there?
In the first two gears to the top of Second (5600=85mph), she will be tires-on-fire fun.
BTW-2
Altho the 230/110 cam, makes peak power at ~5200, the plateau is long and relatively flat .............. so I take advantage of that, and rev mine to 7000 as often as I can. Make sure you have the springs for that, and maybe you can too. (I run OOTB Eddies.)
BTW-3
I have run as little as .028 Q with no contact with numerous blasts to 7000/7200 on bushed stock rods; and with a cooling system temp of 207*F.
BTW-4
Lemmee warn you right now, If your SG is set up too tight and you try to run 245s, I wanna call you a DA. They will spin you around every time the Secondaries open up in mid turn, so tighten then up to prevent that. Or better yet, install a Double-Pumper carb or anything with mechanical secondaries so that you can control the power delivery with your right foot. ( I run a Holley 750). For me, this did not stop until I got to 295/50-15s. These have enough sideways rubber that if I get into trouble I just give her a bit of clutch and she straightens herself right out. Don't be a DA; start with the biggest fattest tires you can fit in those tubs, on the correct rims, which I MO are 85% of the brande4d size. In my 295s I run 10s but they're not quite wide enough. For decent treadlife, I have to run down at 24psi; which doesn't corner all the well unless the tires spinning...... then it doesn't matter. So of course...... you guessed it, I spin them a lot.
275s should fit in the Duster-tubs without mods, on a rim with the right backspace. 85% of 275 is a 9.2 rim. I ran 60 series on 8.5s, which wasn't too bad except again, at a reduced pressure to keep them flat to the road, when traveling straight ahead.
For BFGs or Coopers, in 295/50-15s I set my cone-type SG to 120ftlbs turning torque with 75/90EP oil to which I added about 5ounces of fish-oil SG-additive that I buy at the GM dealer. With 275s I set it to about 105ftlbs
BTW-5
The TQ is a great street carb. I love 'em.
But when you start flicking the car around, they can get you into trouble in the blink of an eye. The ratio of primary to secondary, being so large, means that you will be forever looking for more power in the turns. This, of course means gas pedal. And when the Secondaries open, if yur not careful, the engine will flip like a switch from not enough power, to too much power, and chances are you will not be able to react fast enough; or if you do, you will over-compensate, which can be just as dangerous, especially with skinny-tires and lots of cylinder pressure. I suggest, that if you get into this style of driving, (my style), that you get a sq-bore mechanical secondary carb. I have found the 750 to be satisfactory. A 650 might be ok too; I just happened to have a 750.
BTW-6
Are you absolutely sure your pistons are .012 ABOVE deck? I mean I think it will be OK a; t .039 less .012= .027.... cuz Like I said I have run .028 with no contact. But .012 is actually about where the KB107s in my combo ended up, except BELOW deck, so I just gotta ask.

I know you didn't ask, but with me, you get everything I got on the first go-round. I know you're not a DA; you engineered a nice combo. And I didn't call you one. I said I wanted to call you one if you install 245s; but you won't install 245s, right?
Click to expand...
Nope- no 245's lol. That's alot of great info here! Oh- I made a mistake. The pistons are below deck at .012. I'm going to have to print all that out so I can study what you have e better. Dumb question- what did you mean by SG? And I'm guessing you did the chalk on the tires to get the right psi? Thanks again!!
 
Bewy said:
Like the TQ. Numbers seem low.

Not a trick question, but did the dyno operator check to see if the TQ was getting WOT? What tuning was done on the QJ to dial it in?
Click to expand...
I wasn't there. I was out on the road when it was done. I'm thinking the carb needs adjusted yet
 
As long as you are happy with it, and it does what you want it to do, then the HP numbers don't matter.

If you decide to go faster, just ask....all of us yahoo's on the internet can help you spend ALL your money on speed parts, lol.
 
john27pa said:
79 360 .030 over .012 below deck
Slp-h116cp30 speedpro pistons
Comp ratio ~10.26/ head gask .039 comp
Stock crank Stock magnum rods
Stock oil pan, Hv oil pump
Windage tray, Double roller timing set
1.5 roller rockers, cam saver lifters
Eddy airgap intake, 800cfm thermo quad
Sfi rated harmonic dampner, accel 8.8 wires
Comp cam 20-224-4 cam with double springs- 230/236@50 .488/.491 hyd cam
Speedmaster alum heads 170 runner 2.02/1.62 65cc- pce281.1654
Long headers, 3000 stall tq conv, 3:23 axle, may go to 3:55 when more money,
Dyno says hp 365.4@4800/tq 409.5@4400
Msd ign and mech adv dist
My question is- did I screw up with 170 runner heads? 190 I next step and better for more hp and volume. It's basically a street fun car- cruising, light to light, very little 1/8 mile drag. I hear sprint?? Cars are capped at 170 runners. 185 is better for more hp and higher rpm. Dyno guy said engine is really peppy. Maybe carb needs tuned better also.
What are your thoughts and opinions? I was hoping for 400-425 hp but maybe the 365 is perfect for a fun town cruiser? Oh- 74 duster that is Stock weight and me~3400-3600 pounds.
Click to expand...
My Old 360 was pretty much the same engine in my 74 Duster only with stock j heads 2.02/1.60s and a .480" 230°@.050" ,3,500 stall 3.23 gears 800 edelbrock torker 2 intake ran 13.05@104 open headers. I think it'll be a fun engine.
 
thesiren74 said:
My Old 360 was pretty much the same engine in my 74 Duster only with stock j heads 2.02/1.60s and a .480" 230°@.050" ,3,500 stall 3.23 gears 800 edelbrock torker 2 intake ran 13.05@104 open headers. I think it'll be a fun engine.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I hope so
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top