360 build up advice

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lil red

lil red

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I've been reading the threads and I must say theres an unbelievable wealth of knowledge on this site.

I have a lil red express that Ive owned for years which currently has 3:55 gears, 727 and a 360 with cast flat-tops (about 9-1 comp.), LD340 intake, factory TQ, Mopar 450/455 lift camshaft, a set of worn out 2.02 J heads and headers.

I want to upgrade to a 60403 lunati camshaft and add a set of RHS LA-x heads instead of rebuilding my J heads (it's probably the same coin and I figure I get a better performing head).

One of my questions is that it's going to be a street motor with the factory valvetrain so would the 1.92 valves be a better choice than the 2.02's - I was told that I probably wouldn't get the flow advantage of larger valves without a high rpm smallblock - I would like to keep low end torque for the truck.

The other thing is I am thinking about a swap to a 750 eddy carb

Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated - Thanks
 
I would buy them with the stock 1.94 valves.
They are a good head the way they are.
I am still running the stock 1.88 valves on my performance 360 and it pulls past 6500 rpms.

You really want to use the smallest valve possible for most combination's.
I would use the cam you have in the engine.

The cam you want to use is 226 @ 50 on the intake but the one you have in the engine is bigger \\\ 228 @ 50.
The new cam has more lift and 3 degrees more exhaust duration and would make a little more power but not as much as you would think.

If you go with the new heads, look at how much cfm they flow and at what lifts.
Remember that your going to a closed chamber head and will gain compression.
With about 9.5 to 1 I would step the cam up.
I would want to see the flow chart for the heads but as a guess i would want something in this range.

510 lift /// 234 @ 50 but with the LSA ground at (no more then) a 107.You would be best off with a 106 LSA
This will give the most low end torque and keep pulling up high.
These are just numbers to guide you to a really good cam for your truck.


The only questions i have are what is your converters stall speed or size is(12 inch/11inch) and what fuel do you want to run.87/89/91 octain???
 
If you have a stock converter then i would keep it simple.
This is the cam everyone should be running in there stock head\compression\converter\>>> small block engines.

* $253.95
* Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 294/294, Lift .480/.480, Mopar, Small Block, Each

Brand Crane Cams
Manufacturer's Part Number 690141
Part Type Camshafts
Product Line Crane Racing Camshafts
Summit Racing Part Number CRN-690141
UPC 021174047493

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,800-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 222
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 222
Duration at 050 inch Lift 222 int./222 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 294
Advertised Exhaust Duration 294
Advertised Duration 294 int./294 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.480 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.480 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.480 int./0.480 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 106
Computer-Controlled Compatible No
Grind Number H-222/3200-6
Valve Springs Required Yes
Quantity Sold individually.


These racing camshafts from Crane are designed to provide the torque and power you need in the high rpm ranges. These cams are available for a variety of applications in mechanical, hydraulic roller, and flat tappet styles to suit your needs.
 
I would phone your favourite cam manufacturer and get a custom grind or just get his opinion. (the price is right) A Holley would be a better carb. The fuel curve is so rich with the Carter (Eddy). The Holley can be set up better. (Tuneability)
 
IMO, T67's first post id dead nutz balls on accurate and a screamin BINGO winner!

IMO, while there would be Power gained from the new head, you'll be hard pressed to feel it.

On his second post, not my cup of tea for a cam.

The T-Q can be rebuilt and my choice would be to go to member Demonsizzler for a pro rebuild. He is excellent with those carbs. You will be happy with it.
 
Remember, you cannot compare Mopar Performance camshafts duration at .050" with other makes. Mopar does not use the same checking standard as everyone else. That is why Mopar says to use advertised duration figures when comparing camshafts. Just a little food for thought. Seems like the industry standard is .777 and Mopar uses .850....that sticks in my mind for some reason. I would have to dig out my Mopar engine manual to be sure but I know they measure it differently. I have different thoughts on camshaft selection, but I would rather just throw you some facts. I did.
 
If you get a performance converter then i would use this.
I would love this cam for my 318 if it cut the heads a little and do some port work.


Brand
Crane CamsManufacturer's Part Number
690221Part Type
CamshaftsProduct Line
Crane Racing CamshaftsSummit Racing Part Number
CRN-690221UPC
021174047509

Cam Style
Hydraulic flat tappetBasic Operating RPM Range
3,200-6,400Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
232Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
232Duration at 050 inch Lift
232 int./232 exh.Advertised Intake Duration
304Advertised Exhaust Duration
304Advertised Duration
304 int./304 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.504 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.504 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.504 int./0.504 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees)106
Computer-
Controlled CompatibleNo
Grind Number
H-232/3360-6Valve Springs Required
YesQuantity
Sold individually.
 
Strokerscamp.....
Yes i believe you are correct.
Herb McCandless found out that the .508 was a 242 cam @ 50 and not 248.
Thanks for bringing that up.
I have the victory tech papers right in front of me and forgot about his findings on the .508 cam.(Herb McCandless)

All these years i always felt that the mopar cams gave more cylinder pressure then one would think.
I never ran the .508 though.
I have a .474 cam in a 318 on the stand in the garage so I might pull it out and have it checked to see how big @ 50 it really is.

It's 238 @ 50 according to chrysler.
It might turn out to be 232 @ 50.
Gee...That would make my.484 purple shaft go from 241@50 to 235@50.
Time to learn something new.
Thanks .....................
 
I just searched the tec information called victory tec papers and they where writen by this guy.



v-blue-times.gif




I’m Jeffrey Diamond, author of the VICTORY

LIBRARY books, and

VICTORY & [FONT=ARIAL,VERDANA,HELVETICA]panic[/FONT] Tech Papers. I’ve been writing technical literature on Harley-Davidson motorcycles for over 25 years, Chrysler literature began more recently. I have seven booklets in print at the moment on these two subjects, with several others in various stages of completion. My personal experience in these fields goes back to the 1960s. My articles have appeared in “Car & Driver”, “Easyriders”, “Mopar Action,” and various smaller newsletters since 1978.
I’m entirely self-taught, and have no professional engineering or technical training.
My object is to add to, and expand beyond, previous works on these subjects, not to contradict or repeat the same information. The material offered is believed to be accurate and reliable, and is honestly presented to assist you in obtaining the best results from your project.

Some commentary is based on sound research and experience, or application of known principles; other information is based on conjecture, hypothesis and supposition, and will be prefaced by qualifying words such as “may” and “if”.
The level of satisfaction that you will achieve is largely a function of the amount of time and effort that you are willing to devote to your project. However, in the same way that I cannot take credit for your success, I also cannot be held responsible for any failures or unanticipated results. Despite my best efforts, this information may contain inadvertent typographical errors and inaccurate data. You must use your own good judgment in these matters, keeping in mind that gasoline is highly flammable, and that vehicles can be hazardous to operate.
I’m unfortunately not available to assist directly in the planning or construction of your project. However, I do appreciate comments as to whether the material I supplied was helpful, and how it may be improved.
Your personal experiences may prove useful to other enthusiasts, and will be included and credited in the next revision (with your permission, of course).
Please read this legal notice about my on-line articles, and booklets for sale .
 
thanks for the recomendations

the converter is the factory original and I believe on the lil reds had a slightly higher stall speed .

the carb is the original BB TQ and I've rebuilt it years ago but I find that if I let the truck sit a couple of days , it's a pig to start and sometimes i have to prime it - I removed the choke when i installed the LD340. But in all honesty i love the pull you fell with the spreadbore TQ
 
In his papers he did say something about the information about Herb MaCandless and his findings about the .508 small block cam.
Herb was a mopar legend so it makes you wonder.


The heart and soul of every hod rodder is made up of all his experience's and the willingness to admit not knowing something.This concept is the sure path to knowledge.....................SO with that being said :homework:
I think I'm getting a head headache.lol:cya:
 
This cat lives near me. He (AKA PANIC) seems like a preety dam cool dude. We have e-mailed each other back and forth a few times. He is very smart and can be hard to follow. If you think you have the same level of knowledge, your probably wrong. He has gone way over my head. While the convos were very good, I had to stop and research some things before commenting, "Duhhh...I um.. well, Ahhh, Duhhh...." from time to time.

LilRed, perhaps the fuel leaked out. The O-rings in the carb could be dried out or offset/not sitting just right. The carb has dual to triple vents, so fuel evporation is possible after shut off. Between the heat from the intake/engine and preety much open to the air, fuel can go bad in no time flat if it didn't evaporate fully. Also, throttle shaft leaks are possible while NOT under pressure and while under pressure, no leak! I know, that is backwards, but possible. Been there done that.

I also have this issue with a few rebuilt carbs (T-Q's) I put them up on a bench, filled them with fuel and just waited. No drips, no leaks. But the level did go down. Evaporation.

You'll have to have a good battery and crank it a few good rounds to refill the bowls (Partialy at least) in order to get it back to where it needs to be.
 
The biggest thing with the Thermoquad are the fuel wells in the bottom of the plastic body always leaking or even fallin off over time. You need a GOOD 2 part epoxy that's gasoline resistant to glue them back in place.....and that AIN'T JB Weld.
 
I did have to replace the throttle shaft plate because it was leaking but didn't cure the problem. I thought the same and figured fuel evap.

I thought of the switch to the 750 eddy - just fiqured it would hold more fuel and i could run a choke - cold up here in NS.

I don't know what to expect with the eddy carb - i ran a 625 afb 20 years ago on it but the performance level wasn't there
 
Some more information on the .484 cam i tracked down will be posted on a new thread.
It is the cam grind information right from cam shaft machine.
I don't want to high jack this thread.
 
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