360 build

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JR

JR

Pissed off senior member.
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Im getting the 360 for my 73 scamp ready, so far I have a 76 block,crank,and rods that are 40/10/10, speed pro 8.66:1 Hyp. pistons (summit rebuild kit)all of that is put togeather.
I picked up a set of 86 small block heads at the Portland, OR. swapmeet this weekend that have been hot tanked and magged they have 2.02's a really nice port job and a set of HP springs.
I ordered a hyd. lifter RV cam kit. I have cleaned a set of the stock style rockers and pollished 2 streight rocker shafts. I added 4 more oil holes to the round plate that the oilfilter bolts to, should I make the oil holes in the rockers and rocker shafts a little bigger than stock or should I just leave them?
This car is a fun driver with 80 inch long 3 inch sidepipes.
 
Sounds like you've done enough..Just get it together. Dont enlarge the upper end holes..
 
You should not bother polishing the shafts. Persion parts believe it or not. DO NOT open up the oil holes to the shafts for the rockers. The small block oils very well without mods. AND it will feed hi horse engines without a problem. You have done more than enuff.
 
What about a HV oil pump? I have heard that they are worthless on a street car and even on some mild builds due to the fact that they pump too much oil too fast and you end up with no oil in the pan.So I should just use an over the counter stock pump? Is any one year pump better than another?
Im just coverring my @ss on the oil issue.
I also have a carter HV fuel pump sitting on the shelf but I think Im going to go with a stock FP for this motor and save the carter for the 509 cammed 360 Thats going in my 27 T.
Thanx for all the info guys!!!
 
If your clearances are set properly, the std oil pump will be fine. You can swap the spring in the pump to the higher pressure one. The HV one can suck the sump dry during prolonged high rpms, but even running mine over 6500 for miles, I never had that problem. Also, if you choose to use a windage tray, use the Milodon one for the 4" crank. The MP one does nothing but cost $$.
 
Yep, what he said. Though my Mopar windage tray in the stock stroke 360 had no problems.
 
This thing is going in the car thanksgiving weekend so Im going over everything about 50 billion times.
In the book "How to hot rod small block mopar" by hp books they say to torque the rocker arm shaft bolts to 30 ft lbs. I have a brand new torque wrench and at 30 ft lbs. the rockers seem like they are too loose (I have hydraullic lifters). Am I just paranoid?

Oil pick up tube, 1/4 inch from the bottom of the pan right?

#1 is at TDC, oil pump drive gear is in, the rotor in the mock up dist. is pointing at the first exhaust bolt (stud) on the driver side, the crank gear is a 3 way (-4, 0, +4) and is set at +4 (see pics in link, 360 folder), all the oil passage plugs that need to be in are in.


http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/scamp_of_doom_73/my_photos

Oil pan gaskets, I have a stock FelPro cork set and one of the summit
PN SCE-269091 one piece reuseable gaskets. I have never had a problem with the stock ones should I just go with them and save the summit piece for the "go fast" motor for my 27 T.

I think Im ready to install the pan, intake and valve covers.
 
Cool..did you get the plug in front of the distributordown in the block? For the driver's side lifter gallery?

I was just re-reading..I thought you had the 4" arm in it..For a stock stroke 360, I'd ignore the windage tray entirely...
 
Yep, Paranoid. Torque them down with oil on the threads and evenly across the shaft, not in a line from front to back. They can be lose because theres no oil in the liffters.

Oil pick up tube, 1/4 inch from the bottom of the pan Is right. And level

#1 is at TDC, oil pump drive gear is in, the rotor in the mock up dist. is pointing at the first exhaust bolt (stud) on the driver side,
Click to expand...
As in number 1 cylinder. The one closet to the rad, not the fire wall.

Oil pan gaskets, I have a stock FelPro cork set and one of the summit
PN SCE-269091 one piece reuseable gaskets. I have never had a problem with the stock ones should I just go with them and save the summit piece for the "go fast" motor for my 27 T.
Click to expand...
What ever your comfy with. Just take your time and make sure there on right.
 
Scamp, your all set. Should be a stump puller. You didn't say what manifold and carb you would be using. You have done your home work well. Oh...and make sure you install the rocker shafts with the notches on the correct end. Good luck. Terry.
 
Well I broke down and ordered a Weiand Action Pluse intake from summit and it will be here tomorow. I figured that the old offy 360 intake is old crusty and has 3 helicoils in it already so to hell with it.
I have a new eddy 600 carb that was only 4 months old when the old 360 died.

Rocker arm shafts are bolth in the right positions, all the oil passage plugs are in place, everything is torqued to the right specs.

Prelube... I have a priming shaft, once I prelube it and install the intermediate shaft gear what if it ends up being 1 tooth off and I have to take it out to line it up so the rotor faces #1? With the pan and intake on it seems like it would be next to impossable to take it back out. The smallblock mopar book says to install the intake before prelube.

Break in... 2200 rpm for 30 mins??? (told that by 3 differant people so far)

Change oil and filter after break in and test drive?

What oil is best for a new motor?

Is there a filter that has a valve in it so when I take it off I wont get oil all over my exhaust pipe? I have a right angle adaptor for the oil filter but I dont have enough room for it, the exhaust tube passes right next to the filter and into the sidepipes. I have about 3 inches to play with so I have been useing a short Wix filter.

Thanks for all your help guys, Im getting all antsy and every time I walk by the motor in the garage Im looking at everything and thinking about what you guys have mentioned and double checking everything.
Im use to bolting things on, cutting, welding and fab work so this whole new spiffy motor thing is new to me, YOU GUYS ARE A BIG HELP!!!!!
 
One tooth off is no big deal you have plenty of room to rotate the distributor body to align. You can even shift the wires over one place on the cap if need be.

The intermediate shaft is easy to get out. Take two large flat blade screw drivers and place both tips in the distributor slot. Then squeeze the handles together. This will wedge the tips in the slot and you can pull it right out.
 
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