360 Commando....

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soaringcowman

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Ok guys, i'm buying a 92 360 commando(it's a LA motor) off my buddy, now it's going into a 70 Duster. Now when i go to the parts store what one earth do i tell them i need parts for? i know the 360's never came in the duster, but aren't the 360's and 340's the same? can't i just say i have a 70 340 duster and i should get the right parts for my 360??

thanks

adam
 
oh ok cool, didn't realize that was a option in the 74-75. Learn something new everyday. Thanks :).
 
The things that are different between a 360 and a 340.
 
Thats gonna be a roller cam engine. cam, lifters, pushrods all different. Not sure about springs and such.
 
yeah i realize it's a roller cam, i'm mainly in need of some gasket and what not...71dartguy you know much about these 360 commando's? or a link that would dirrect me. I know this motor was a crate motor from mopar performance but can't find any right ups on it...
 
Soaringcowman,are you interested in an aluminum intake?I have 3 to choose from for $100 each..
1.Torker II
2.Eddy TM5
3.Pro/Stock

These are all single plain intakes!Let me know via PM if interested?Thanks
 
The comando create engines were Hyd. cam engines with the Purple 284/.484-110 cam for the 360 HP engine and a super lamer (I'll be hnest, I forgot the specs) cam for the 300HP create engine.
 
now my buddy believes it's the 300 hp one, but is there any way of telling with out pulling the cam out?
 
the 300 hp commando engine is the basic 360 truck engine with an aluminum intake and carb...

the 360 hp commando came with increase compression, 509 flat tappet hydraulic , and M1 single plane intake.

still have a 360 commando short block sitting in the blue shipping crate for several years now.
 
now my buddy believes it's the 300 hp one, but is there any way of telling with out pulling the cam out?

Pull the valve covers off and measure the valve lift with a dial indicator. You'll get some lifter bleed down when just rolling it over by hand but you'll still be able to tell which one it is cause the Commando engine came with a .484 lift cam and the 300 hp engine came with a .398 lift cam if I remember right. You may loose up to .050-.060" due to lifter bleed down but even if you do your .484 cam still should show a lift of .420 or higher which is considerably higher than the 300 hp engine. If it's the 300 hp engine the lift will be way down under .400
 
u seem to a person with a lot of knowledge,i bracket race a71 dodge demon/360 ,im building a 408 to put in my car what heads do u suggest and flat tappet cam do suggest
 
Fishy '68 said, "You'll get some lifter bleed down when just rolling it over by hand but you'll still be able to tell which one it is..."

As easy as it is to loosen the rocker arm shaft hold-down bolts, once the valve cover is off, why wouldn't you just take the rocker arm shaft clear off the engine (just pick it up, once the bolts are loose) and put the dial indicator on top of a pushrod, measure the cam lift and multiply by 1.5?
That way, you wouldn't have to worry about lifter bleed-down (there wouldn't be any) and you'd have an accurate valve lift measurement (assuming the rockers are "correct"...)

It would take literally, about a minute (or, less) to get the rocker arm shaft off that engine, once the valve cover is off. Just loosen the bolts up and lift it off.

Seems easy, to me...:cheers:
 
My 360 was also a 92 Super Commando. It came with KB pistion and the .474 lift cam (measured using micrometer), and single plane M1. You should have the 308 heads, mine were. Also, mine was a standard bore block. I removed all the internals and had the motor stroked to a 408. If you need internal engine pieces for this motor let me know.


Ok guys, i'm buying a 92 360 commando(it's a LA motor) off my buddy, now it's going into a 70 Duster. Now when i go to the parts store what one earth do i tell them i need parts for? i know the 360's never came in the duster, but aren't the 360's and 340's the same? can't i just say i have a 70 340 duster and i should get the right parts for my 360??

thanks

adam
 
Fishy '68 said, "You'll get some lifter bleed down when just rolling it over by hand but you'll still be able to tell which one it is..."

As easy as it is to loosen the rocker arm shaft hold-down bolts, once the valve cover is off, why wouldn't you just take the rocker arm shaft clear off the engine (just pick it up, once the bolts are loose) and put the dial indicator on top of a pushrod, measure the cam lift and multiply by 1.5?
That way, you wouldn't have to worry about lifter bleed-down (there wouldn't be any) and you'd have an accurate valve lift measurement (assuming the rockers are "correct"...)

It would take literally, about a minute (or, less) to get the rocker arm shaft off that engine, once the valve cover is off. Just loosen the bolts up and lift it off.

Seems easy, to me...:cheers:

Your right Bill it is super easy to remove the rocker shaft assy and theoretically you could measure right off of the pushrod but the big problem is the pushrod will flop all around making it impossible to get a reading that's anywhere close to right. The thing is all he needed was a ball park figure since there's a big diff. between the cams. That's why I said to do it that way.
 
You're right, Fishy.... for his purposes here, your way is best. Another problem might be, trying to get a dial indicator reading off the conical end of that pushrod. My Magnum has a hole in the end that would provide a "seat" for the dial indicator plunger; no such convenience on a solid pushrod.

I just didn't think it through... sorry.:angry7:
 
You're right, Fishy.... for his purposes here, your way is best. Another problem might be, trying to get a dial indicator reading off the conical end of that pushrod. My Magnum has a hole in the end that would provide a "seat" for the dial indicator plunger; no such convenience on a solid pushrod.

I just didn't think it through... sorry.:angry7:

No big deal Bill. I tried it at first too thinking I might be able to measure it. That's how I found out it doesn't work easy. LOL
 
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