360 crank knurling?

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ch1ll said:
My bad experience with mopar performance short block was one main bearing bore was .003 larger than it was supposed to be and the middle two pistons each bank were out of the hole and all the outbound pistons were in the hole. Total pos. Should have known why it was discounted at $1100.00
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DANG!!!
Yes! I have heard some scary stories about these crate engines and thats why I’m pullin it apart to check everything over.
Factory built with hungover employees maybe. Not cool.
So your piston height differed from cyl to cyl?
 
QUINN FORBES said:
Interesting again Jad!
So if the shop balanced your 92 as that year they must have used magnum specs hence the vibration.
If I understand that correctly.
Even though you asked them to balance as an LA… BRUTAL !!!
Well theres hope for me since this block hasn’t been run yet and assuming the flex plate I bought is correct for LA 360. I will be doing my homework on that for sure!
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You should be good using LA damper and flex plate.
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tonysrt said:
Back in the mid 80's I got a 440 crank from Hamburger and it had no knurling. That's all I say.
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So Hamburger knew back them.
Eagle still knurls their forged cranks as recently as a year ago.
Scat does not knurl their forged crank for 360 stock stroke, the only one I have seen in person.

Knurling is definitely not needed.
 
QUINN FORBES said:
Interesting again Jad!
So if the shop balanced your 92 as that year they must have used magnum specs hence the vibration.
If I understand that correctly.
Even though you asked them to balance as an LA… BRUTAL !!!
Well theres hope for me since this block hasn’t been run yet and assuming the flex plate I bought is correct for LA 360. I will be doing my homework on that for sure!
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That was Bob's motor not mine. Always have my neutral balanced. Matter of fact I have one at @Mopar Sam to be neutral balanced right now it's been down there a while.
 
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Cool!!!
I was just looking at the b&m site for the flex and it says 360 up to ‘92 external balance 727 so I should be good on that too.
Now I just have to look the rest of the short block over very closely and see what is screwed up!
:rolleyes:
Also the 292/508 cam they put in both (907/908) crates seem a little steep especially for the lower compression crate.
I’ve already yanked the purple shaft and going with the comp xe268h.
My stall isnt that steep for the 292.
 
Knurling is not needed with a rubber/silicon seal, but is needed with a rope seal. I only use rub or sil seals, no matter what engine brand, & if the crank is knurled, I have the knurling ground off. Usually 0.008" will remove it completely.
 
Ok so no knurling… no big deal.
Awesome!!! One less thing to think about.
Thankyou all for the intel.
Once again Ive come away from FABO learning more than I asked for!
Best site ever because of the people!
:thankyou::thumbsup:
 
QUINN FORBES said:
DANG!!!
Yes! I have heard some scary stories about these crate engines and thats why I’m pullin it apart to check everything over.
Factory built with hungover employees maybe. Not cool.
So your piston height differed from cyl to cyl?
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Yes, that is correct. I believe the cutter was dull when the decked the block, got it too hot and its not flat and its alot like .009. My machinist said he wants to check the crankshaft (more money). But if he didn’t start digging into it, he would have never have found the bad main bearing bore. Now the main cap needs to be shaved and align bored. Would have been money ahead with a used block and rebuilding from scratch. My advise to you is take it to a trusted machinist and have the entire thing gone through. I don’t build motors anyways. I buy parts, tell my guy what I want in the end. Follow along while he builds it and watch him break it in and tune it on his dyno.
 
Bobzilla said:
Yes. Cummins did some of the crate engine and short blocks and I think a shop here in Michigan did some. Maybe Arrow Racing Engines? I forget. Not sure who was first, if there was overlap at the same time, or if there was any more doing them.

Mine had a strand of metal from a wire wheel stuck under the head of one rod bolt. Took it apart and also found an extremely tight cam bearing. The bore was under size from spec from when it was originally built, but it was not fixed when they made it into a crate short block. That was fun.
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Wire stuck under a head bolt!!??
Sloppy bores!!??
Unfrickenbelievable !
Some peoples kids huh?
 
Also koller dodge in Illinois who sold me the sb told me it was a 11:1 compression ratio and its only 10:1. They also sold me a set of push rods “back order “ and I never got them. Those bastards are out of business now. I hope with their rep they never get another job in the automotive field again, every one of them. I hope they get the screwing they deserve for the screwing they gave.
 
10:1 with aluminum heads, thanks. Now I have to shave the heads as well if I use the block. Maybe after my machinist straightens everything out I will just sell the short block and start from scratch to get exactly what I want.
 
ch1ll said:
Yes, that is correct. I believe the cutter was dull when the decked the block, got it too hot and its not flat and its alot like .009. My machinist said he wants to check the crankshaft (more money). But if he didn’t start digging into it, he would have never have found the bad main bearing bore. Now the main cap needs to be shaved and align bored. Would have been money ahead with a used block and rebuilding from scratch. My advise to you is take it to a trusted machinist and have the entire thing gone through. I don’t build motors anyways. I buy parts, tell my guy what I want in the end. Follow along while he builds it and watch him break it in and tune it on his dyno.
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ch1ll said:
Also koller dodge in Illinois who sold me the sb told me it was a 11:1 compression ratio and its only 10:1. They also sold me a set of push rods “back order “ and I never got them. Those bastards are out of business now. I hope with their rep they never get another job in the automotive field again, every one of them. I hope they get the screwing they deserve for the screwing they gave.
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Wow! Thats just bad for business!
frustrating when people feed you s#!t sandwiches just for a sale when if honest, business will keep coming.
Shame!
 
For rope seals only, Many new cranks come in here . I have not seen one knurled yet. I believe they stopped that in the 60's - 70's

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When the crate Hemi's came out in 2000, I believe it was Arrow putting them together. But the parts were so bad they could only assemble one a week. Chrysler got pissed and sent everything up to Cummins to put them together. My 472 was a nightmare with the problems I had, so Mopar took it back and sent me a new one. So here they are trying to save money on bad parts, with the assembly of the bad parts, and it bit them anyway. I never hear anybody else talk about this and I know I wasn't the only one to have trouble with those motors. I was fortunate to buy it from a Dealer that was very good in helping me getting the problems I had rectified.
 
Aren't those cranks for the full face rear seal? It seems like none of the newer engines have the 2 piece seal anymore.
 
on the seal I believe they stopped the knurling when the switched to rubber seals ,rope seals needed the knurling to pull oil away from the seal
 
tonysrt said:
Aren't those cranks for the full face rear seal? It seems like none of the newer engines have the 2 piece seal anymore.
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Not sure about the full face seals but this block has the two piece ( orange ) seal so that tells me the age of its original assembly.
Im obviously out of the loop since Ive learned so much here.
I knew about the old rope seals but now I know about the knurling and the timelines when it was used.
 
If you have a marine engine and its left handed the groves are reversed don't get them mixed up or you will never stop the leak
 
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