abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
stock 360 crank would be cast.
360 ENGINE BUYING CONCERNS/QUESTIONS
- Thread starter CFD244
- Start date
-
stock 360 crank would be cast.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
the drivers head oils at 20 ATDC #6 compression and the pass head oils at 90 deg (1/4 turn) BTDC #1 compression. this'll minimize the crank turning. I like to do the pass head then go CCW back around (EDIT meant to say "to then oil the dr head" then back up a bit more from 20 ATDC to 15-20 BTDC #6 compression for the initial) & get the rotor under the #6 plug wire. good luck on the purchase & as said confirm that everything is oiled that is supposed to be oiled. You only get one shot to have a good cam breakin & I would want high zinc oil. RR
Last edited:
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
I'd pay $3000 for it if it was sitting in front me and running with all the paperwork. This could be the start of bad blood between all of you with out knowing for sure, all the real specifics of the build.
I’m kinda glad I can say I’ve never been in this spot and always buy them in pieces. My son in Colorado bought an assembled 340 a few years ago for around 1400.00. It’s supposed to have a small aftermarket cam. The guy treated he very good on some other parts so I don’t think he did to bad. Especially in Colorado
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
Shaaa
Shaaa
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I think we are looking for 'new' here... and though it would be nice and completely understandable as to why you would want to tear the motor apart to see.... it's impractical.
So you bring a good LED flashlight and you look down the distributor hole looking for things like clean surfaces No Coke on the distributor drive gear for instance then you look through the spark plug holes for a nice silvery crosshatch cylinder wall and or brand new piston top with a stamp perhaps or some eyebrows that you can see. Brand new freeze plugs... you have to make a deal of sorts, if you can...that when you get it home and you go through it that as long as it's everything that he says it is....it's good.
But if you open it up and it's been run and has used components put into a machined block and **** like that ...you know ...'a cobbling of new used parts'...then it negotiations or return.
So you bring a good LED flashlight and you look down the distributor hole looking for things like clean surfaces No Coke on the distributor drive gear for instance then you look through the spark plug holes for a nice silvery crosshatch cylinder wall and or brand new piston top with a stamp perhaps or some eyebrows that you can see. Brand new freeze plugs... you have to make a deal of sorts, if you can...that when you get it home and you go through it that as long as it's everything that he says it is....it's good.
But if you open it up and it's been run and has used components put into a machined block and **** like that ...you know ...'a cobbling of new used parts'...then it negotiations or return.
Lostsoul58
Member
If it’s a flat tappet cam probably should pull the lifters and coat lifters and lobes with a good camshaft break-in lube before starting. I’d bet whatever was used years ago for assembly has slid off onto the rods etc..
-
