360 in 64 Val?

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waguy

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I just scored a built 360 and am wondering how much HP I would lose if I installed it in my 4speed 64 Valiant using the original exhaust manifolds? It has J heads with the big valves, a custom valley pan, full port and polish, solid lifters and cam, LD340 manifold, etc. etc. Currently there is a very healthy 318 doing the duties in the car and I really enjoy it's pep. BTW I am on a tight to non existent budget. Will this be a largely wasted effort without headers and major exhaust work?

I could put the engine into my 84 D150 using magnum exhaust manifolds but . . . :sad1: I can sort of hear the responses in my head already, but say it anyway.

Thanks!
 
The bigger issue is not power loss but the flywheel. You have the smaller early A clutch, right? If the engine internally balanced? Is the crank drilled for a 4sp? The early A uses a smaller diameter clutch and flywheel with a different crank hub register, and it's not balanced for the factory type externally balanced 360. If the engine is internally balanced (would have had to be done when it was rebuilt) then you only need the bushing for the crank hub. If you can overcome that stuff - you'll lose a bit but overall it should still make more than what you have depending.
 
You can use the stock fly wheel, just needs to be setup for external balance. You can use a roller pilot bushing from a mid 90s dodge truck if the crank is not drilled. I would try to find some magnum manifolds over the stock manifolds. Hey your in Washington. On craigslist is some 340 manifolds for $200 in Graham. Where you located?
 
When I installed the 318 I updated the to the later aluminum bell that accepts a 10 1/2" clutch. I see that Summit has a ZOOM flywheel balanced for the 360 and my crank is drilled for a MT.

I had seen those 340 manifolds but they have since disappeared.:crybaby:
 
Sounds like you're fine then. The 340 (58071) will work at least with manual steering and are easy to find but harder to pay for...lol.
 
I just scored a built 360 and am wondering how much HP I would lose if I installed it in my 4speed 64 Valiant using the original exhaust manifolds? It has J heads with the big valves, a custom valley pan, full port and polish, solid lifters and cam, LD340 manifold, etc. etc. Currently there is a very healthy 318 doing the duties in the car and I really enjoy it's pep. BTW I am on a tight to non existent budget. Will this be a largely wasted effort without headers and major exhaust work?

I could put the engine into my 84 D150 using magnum exhaust manifolds but . . . :sad1: I can sort of hear the responses in my head already, but say it anyway.

Thanks!

I would vote against using cast iron manifolds (having done this swap myself, back in 1972,) for two reasons: 1. I bought a complete 1971 340 motor and transmission (A-833 4-speed,) and attempted to drop it into my '64 Valiant's engine bay, (this had been a V-8 car from the factory,) and found, to my dismay, that the manifolds which were the good '71 340 Hi-po ones that the passenger side looked kind of like a header, hit the inner fender panels solidly on both sides and although I could get the motor on its mounts, the manifolds were wedged against the fender panels on both sides with it in place.

I still wanted them in there, so I took the car to an exhaust shop and was going to pay to have some 2 1/2" head pipes attached to the manifolds and run back to some glass packs.

The guy looked at it for about fifteen minutes and finally said, "There's just no way to get a pipe on that driver's side manifold; too much stuff (torsion- bar, clutch linkage, etc.) in the way... sorry."

So, I put some el-cheapo (HEDMAN) , fender-well headers on it which worked well.

Secondly, I have since read two exhaustive (no pun intended) reports that tested L-A motors with several different kinds of headers and exhaust manifolds and determined that even the best 340 manifolds cost a LOT of power, compared to even the cheapest headers; that driver's side manifold is a real performance-killer!

On the other hand, I have read on FABO that some folks have actually used the 340 cast iron manifolds in a '64 A body with no interference, so go figure... Production difference in bodies, I guess...

Another worthwhile option might be Dakota 318 Magnum exhaust manifolds, but I have heard that the '92-'93 manifolds have a larger outlets than later ones, so, you might want to consider that. I think they are not a slam-dunk in a '64 A Body, but the necessary hoops you have to jump through to make them work are minimal...

Good luck; hope this helps...:blob:
 

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I did the same to my Barracuda a few years ago, and then last year I installed a T-5 and pulled the 4-speed. I have the 273 flywheel that I had balanced for the 360, had it on another site for $100 plus shipping.
I have the motor out of the car right now, and am waiting to reinstall it until I get a set of headers.
Let me know if you're interested in the flywheel, I can send a pic to e email address or cell.
Oops, I should've read the rest of the post, I see you have the bigger bellhousing already,,never mind on the flywheel.




The bigger issue is not power loss but the flywheel. You have the smaller early A clutch, right? If the engine internally balanced? Is the crank drilled for a 4sp? The early A uses a smaller diameter clutch and flywheel with a different crank hub register, and it's not balanced for the factory type externally balanced 360. If the engine is internally balanced (would have had to be done when it was rebuilt) then you only need the bushing for the crank hub. If you can overcome that stuff - you'll lose a bit but overall it should still make more than what you have depending.
 
Thanks to everyone for the replies!

I tried the magnum manifolds when I installed the 318 and the driver's side dumped directly in the middle of the z-bar at about 1 1/2" away. I didn't care to try a hydraulic clutch at the time. The passenger side looked like it would clear.
 
Thanks to everyone for the replies!

I tried the magnum manifolds when I installed the 318 and the driver's side dumped directly in the middle of the z-bar at about 1 1/2" away. I didn't care to try a hydraulic clutch at the time. The passenger side looked like it would clear.

So, would running a 904 be out of the question?
 
If worse comes to worse on the exhaust manifold issue. You can always use an original early-A, 273 manifolds on the 360. I would just open them up with a die grinder for the larger exhaust ports on the heads with a die grinder.


I did that with a 360 in a 74 Charger with 318 exhaust manifolds. They bolted up and I opened the ports in the manifolds up so they could flow better and they worked fine.


I will be installing a 360 in a 66 Valiant station wagon some time in the future. I plan to use the 70 340 exhaust manifolds if they will fit, or I also have a set of early A 273 manifolds as plan B.
 
I had a stock 68 340 in my 65 barracuda in high school, good logs and all. Fit fine. I think the driver side manifold was constantly hitting my steering box though, at a cold idle. Had a TQ on it for some reason though.
I say stick with the hot teen.
 
I will be using a 340/904 in my 65 Dart GT 'vert. I've acquired a set of 68-70 340 manifolds, a set of 92ish Dakota manifolds, a set of Spitfires and have the stock 273 manifolds just in case none of the other three will work out.
 
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