mikesduster
Well-Known Member
i have a AIRGAP and M-1.
WHICH ONE TO USE???
WHICH ONE TO USE???
360 Intakes
- Thread starter mikesduster
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I thought you were looking for a M-1 single?
3
340srule
Guest
Air Gap......
74swinger
Member
anybody put a 6-pack set up on a 360? i've thought about it... if it's pre-1992 it should work right?
why wouldn't that be cool?:shock:
why wouldn't that be cool?:shock:
dodge freak
Well-Known Member
Aren't those 6 pack intakes very high and need a special hood to clear ?
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
I will be running a Performer RPM on my 360.
Quote this month in Hot Rod mag.
"Again,it's like the Air-Gap is the universal best all-around intake manifold for anything under 6,500 rpm."
Quote this month in Hot Rod mag.
"Again,it's like the Air-Gap is the universal best all-around intake manifold for anything under 6,500 rpm."
74swinger
Member
hmmm. good point. i have a stock 74 dart hood but was thinking i could use that neat "lo-profile" 6-pack air filter from paddock.
'64 Cuda
Well-Known Member
Not positive, but I think that with the factory low profile air cleaner assembly the six pack will clear most stock hoods. I have an all new six pack I plan to use in my '64. Haven't mocked it up yet but I could do it sometime to get a measurement from the bottom of the manifold to the top of the air cleaner. Also, if the low profile assembly that 74swinger is talking about is the stock one, you can probably get it cheaper if you shop around. I paid $271 for mine.
RE 6-pack 360s...
Why wouldn't that be cool?
I don't have any hard evidence (dyno numbers), but there was a girl from Apple Valley, CA (Linda somebody) who used to campaign a 340 T/A in E/SA with the factory 6-Pack setup in Div. VII Stock Eliminator. The car was pink, and quite pristine, and I paid a lot of attention to it because I thought it ran really well.
Her husband tuned it, and one day I asked him why he'd taken the multiple carburetion off the engine and replaced it with a Thermoquad on the stock (rules-mandated) single-carb, cast-iron manifold, setup.
He said, "Because it's faster... same class, but consitently runs quicker and faster with the Thermoquad than the multiple setup."
Every time I saw that car run after that, it had one carb on it...
Guess that might be one reason not to run the 6-pack, if that is really true, and he had no reason to lie; same class with both setups... and, he had both. They ran it with 3 two-barrels for what I believe was several seasons, before making the switch to one carb.
Anybody got any comparative dyno data showing back-to-back testing that would show a different conclusion?
I've always wondered if he was just jerking my chain, but the car DID pick up (but, not much) when he went to 1 4bbl...
I'd like to see a dyno test to confirm what he said. Doesn't seem logical to me...
Why wouldn't that be cool?
I don't have any hard evidence (dyno numbers), but there was a girl from Apple Valley, CA (Linda somebody) who used to campaign a 340 T/A in E/SA with the factory 6-Pack setup in Div. VII Stock Eliminator. The car was pink, and quite pristine, and I paid a lot of attention to it because I thought it ran really well.
Her husband tuned it, and one day I asked him why he'd taken the multiple carburetion off the engine and replaced it with a Thermoquad on the stock (rules-mandated) single-carb, cast-iron manifold, setup.
He said, "Because it's faster... same class, but consitently runs quicker and faster with the Thermoquad than the multiple setup."
Every time I saw that car run after that, it had one carb on it...
Guess that might be one reason not to run the 6-pack, if that is really true, and he had no reason to lie; same class with both setups... and, he had both. They ran it with 3 two-barrels for what I believe was several seasons, before making the switch to one carb.
Anybody got any comparative dyno data showing back-to-back testing that would show a different conclusion?
I've always wondered if he was just jerking my chain, but the car DID pick up (but, not much) when he went to 1 4bbl...
I'd like to see a dyno test to confirm what he said. Doesn't seem logical to me...
daredevil
Well-Known Member
you got me wanting to build a sheetmetal intake so,s i know its american
Bill, it is true, a single 4 will run, better down the 1/4. I have seen some mag shot outs and have had old racers tell me the same.
Theres not a damn thing wrong with the 6pak, but it does have limits and can only flow so well. I'd like to see one run with the carbs modded or simply bigger carbs.
Theres not a damn thing wrong with the 6pak, but it does have limits and can only flow so well. I'd like to see one run with the carbs modded or simply bigger carbs.
dodge freak
Well-Known Member
This is my take on why 1 4bbl could be faster than a 6 pack.
Could be 1 of 2 reasons, 1st those 6 packs might be harder to tune. You need to get the jetting just right and the right springs on the secondary carbs.
And 2nd, that car was mostly stock, meaning the ignition system had to be stock or close to it. If it would had have an MSD racing spark box like a 7al or even an 8 box--the 6 boxes really are not that much better than stock-the motor might have really woke up.
I found that out the hard way, ran a MSD 6 box for years with my dp 750, was happy with it, only time it had a bog at all was from a dead stop and I floored it super fast, if I took off and not punch it as fast as I could it seemed fine.
Well that 6 box had no rev limiter, the 6a was like almost $200, I am thinking gee, for just over $300 I could get a 7al-they are no longer made new-most said I was wasting my $$ but MSD said with the right coil it last on the street just fine, so I got it. Guess what, no bog no matter how fast I punched it. Motor pulled even better at all speeds. Spark plugs stay super clean-they do wear out faster, the metal fades away and the gap opens after just 6 months of use, not much but more than the 6.
Big deal, now I just buy new NGK racing plugs each year, I never run a stock or even a MSD 6 box again unless I had too, smog laws.
Could be 1 of 2 reasons, 1st those 6 packs might be harder to tune. You need to get the jetting just right and the right springs on the secondary carbs.
And 2nd, that car was mostly stock, meaning the ignition system had to be stock or close to it. If it would had have an MSD racing spark box like a 7al or even an 8 box--the 6 boxes really are not that much better than stock-the motor might have really woke up.
I found that out the hard way, ran a MSD 6 box for years with my dp 750, was happy with it, only time it had a bog at all was from a dead stop and I floored it super fast, if I took off and not punch it as fast as I could it seemed fine.
Well that 6 box had no rev limiter, the 6a was like almost $200, I am thinking gee, for just over $300 I could get a 7al-they are no longer made new-most said I was wasting my $$ but MSD said with the right coil it last on the street just fine, so I got it. Guess what, no bog no matter how fast I punched it. Motor pulled even better at all speeds. Spark plugs stay super clean-they do wear out faster, the metal fades away and the gap opens after just 6 months of use, not much but more than the 6.
Big deal, now I just buy new NGK racing plugs each year, I never run a stock or even a MSD 6 box again unless I had too, smog laws.
dodge freak
Well-Known Member
Pro drag racers use the MSD 10 box or the MAG. That set up cost close to a grand but with those super hot sparks, the fuel really burns. You can dump all the A/F you can in the motor but then you NEED a super strong spark to burn it up. That-along with 13-1 compression and a BIG cam- is how they can run a 1150 cfm carb on a 5 liter motor.
Muti-carbs need a stronger spark, just like the dp carbs. I found outside temp. does not matter too much anymore either since I got the MSD 7al. Before it seem to matter and I had to rejet 2-3 times a year as the temps. went from 30 dergess to 90 degress. to go as fast. Now I still could if I want to but its not that much diff.
Its always quick.
Muti-carbs need a stronger spark, just like the dp carbs. I found outside temp. does not matter too much anymore either since I got the MSD 7al. Before it seem to matter and I had to rejet 2-3 times a year as the temps. went from 30 dergess to 90 degress. to go as fast. Now I still could if I want to but its not that much diff.
Its always quick.
Rumblefish360 said:
>>>"Bill, it is true, a single 4 will run, better down the 1/4."<<<
Well, you're about the fourth person who's told me that, so I'm wondering why they ever went to the trouble of making that intake.
The Trans-Am series, for which the T/A was named, only alowed one four barrel on their "Ponycar" racers, and had a 5-liter engine size-limit. They had to de-stroke a 340 to make the program.
Msybe if you put some 500-cfm Holleys on this manifold, and put it on a 408" stroker, it might make more power than a 4bbl, but since it's a 180-degree (dual-plane) low-riser design, and there are so many really good single-plane, 4bbl designs from which to choose, I doubt it.
Of course, it has a LOT of visual appeal, and if a person wasn't interested in all-out horsepower, it would make for a lot of admiring glances at the cruise-in... or, car show. Drag racing isn't "EVERYTHING" to everybody, I guess.
>>>"Bill, it is true, a single 4 will run, better down the 1/4."<<<
Well, you're about the fourth person who's told me that, so I'm wondering why they ever went to the trouble of making that intake.
The Trans-Am series, for which the T/A was named, only alowed one four barrel on their "Ponycar" racers, and had a 5-liter engine size-limit. They had to de-stroke a 340 to make the program.
Msybe if you put some 500-cfm Holleys on this manifold, and put it on a 408" stroker, it might make more power than a 4bbl, but since it's a 180-degree (dual-plane) low-riser design, and there are so many really good single-plane, 4bbl designs from which to choose, I doubt it.
Of course, it has a LOT of visual appeal, and if a person wasn't interested in all-out horsepower, it would make for a lot of admiring glances at the cruise-in... or, car show. Drag racing isn't "EVERYTHING" to everybody, I guess.
I'd say because of the time frame of the set up, 1970, that was simply the best street strip intake there was. You had the Torker series from Edelbrock. Not a bad intake for it's day. It was out right hammered by the 6 pak in making torque, about the same HP.
After that, the race series intakes like a Victor style, Holley strip Dom.'s and the STR's intake were the next step up and a big gap it is.
Also, the driveabilty factor is higher with the triple Holleys on top over a masive 4bbl. Most people would rather keep it small than put a monster 800+ 4bbl on top and try to tune it. Though the metering plates of the outboard carbs leave many people scratching there heads.
I think Chrysler was late in the multi carb arena, but came up with the best performing and eye popping version of all. Alot of guys I met thought it should have been a mech. secondary and linkage set up. Seeing how it is a factory set up with warranty and the need for trouble free life span over 3 years, I think it is a good set up.
I'd love to do one, but it's a bit much to do right now. It falls under a "I gotta have it" rather than want it issue. I think it is the best looking set up. The best for it's time street set up for it's RPM range and street power abilty's.
dodge freak
Well-Known Member
It was to sell cars to the younger people, sounded cool. I got a "6 pack".
I agree, a racing intake like a Torker intake and a 850 dp would make more sense.
Believe it or not, they still had smog laws back in 1970, they were loose for sure but a 850 dp on a Torker intake would not have cut it, even back then.
BTW, I believe the Torker intake came out around 1972-73
I agree, a racing intake like a Torker intake and a 850 dp would make more sense.
Believe it or not, they still had smog laws back in 1970, they were loose for sure but a 850 dp on a Torker intake would not have cut it, even back then.
BTW, I believe the Torker intake came out around 1972-73
74swinger
Member
well.... seems like we have an interesting dicussion here. some great points are being made.
my Dad is feeding his 340 with a thermoquad on top of an edelbrock intake. i'm not sure which model. he kind of thinks my multiple carb desires are a bit funny. he has warned me about tuning the darn things in and getting them to work right. seems like he's been down that road before.
anyway, i'll be on the street with this car. i agree with a few of the posters, the 6-pack is purely an "oh wow" set up for this engine. not much looks cooler!
i'm trying to figure out the cam and stuff right now, but thats another thread.
my Dad is feeding his 340 with a thermoquad on top of an edelbrock intake. i'm not sure which model. he kind of thinks my multiple carb desires are a bit funny. he has warned me about tuning the darn things in and getting them to work right. seems like he's been down that road before.
anyway, i'll be on the street with this car. i agree with a few of the posters, the 6-pack is purely an "oh wow" set up for this engine. not much looks cooler!
i'm trying to figure out the cam and stuff right now, but thats another thread.
dodge freak
Well-Known Member
Unless you have extra money to play with, stick with one 4 bbl carb. Sure those 6 packs are hard to tune and then like I said you then NEED a good MSD box to fire it right.
You can't buy 1970 gas anymore, todays gas is good--I like it, but it is harder to burn unless you have a strong spark box.
Funny thing is I switch to a Annular booster carb and it did pick up some power. Heck I bet a MSD 8 box might help out too. But I don't have cash like that to spend, I am sticking with my 7al box for now.
You can't buy 1970 gas anymore, todays gas is good--I like it, but it is harder to burn unless you have a strong spark box.
Funny thing is I switch to a Annular booster carb and it did pick up some power. Heck I bet a MSD 8 box might help out too. But I don't have cash like that to spend, I am sticking with my 7al box for now.
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