![:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:](/mopar/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/big_rofl.gif)
I could barely see that little bright blue plug from my Kobalt torque wrench laying down in there. I got out the Craftsmen automotive pick up tool to try to retrieve it. Of course as soon as I touched it, it jumped on down out of sight.
Will the oil pan come off with the engine in place? Or should I just go ahead and shoot myself? Lol
@pittsburghracer
Sorry to keep bugging y'all.![]()
I just spoke with one of my areas old time Mopar drag racer / engine builders and he suggested the same thing.If it’s in the pan, leave it there. You’d be surprised what you find in oil pans. It won’t hurt a thing being in there.
Good information. I bought an Edelbrock 7176 heated intake just in case and made a last minute decision to go with it. I could have saved it for my 340. Street manners seem much improved. I did put the 750 Holley back on it though so I could still change to my 650 Holley later. Or it seems like some people like the AVS2 carb. That may be even better. Thanks.Fuel atomization and vaporization is a big problem with todays fuel (blended for EFI) and cold air intakes.
I won’t do a cold air intake without a quality annular boosters any more.
As a general rule, that series of carbs were “universal” which means they universally fit nothing.
The idle circuit is so rich it’s crazy. Like most everything else they need T slot restricters.
They need some work but if you tune them they work well.
I found two rod bolts in the pan of a 360 I recently tore down. The rods were all bolted up as expected, and it didn't look like it had ever been apart, not even the valve covers. I dunno how that could've happened.If it’s in the pan, leave it there. You’d be surprised what you find in oil pans. It won’t hurt a thing being in there.
Don't really know anything about inside of engine. I did run my new inspection camera down the #3 intake port and I could see intake gasket and/or face of head port sticking out slightly on 3 sides of the intake port so there is another issue. I'm guessing no on head porting. And I'm learning a lot about racing type parts on a street engine. It has an Edelbrock RPM/Airgap intake and a Holley 4779 750cfm mechanical secondary, double pumper. Also an MSD billet mechanical advance distributor. When I took the carb off, gas was standing in the ribs in the intake floor. So cold intake and big lopey cam creating less vacuum maybe not keeping gas vaporized.
Thread engagement for ferrous is 1.5 × bolt diameter. In Al, I would go 2 × to 2.5 ×.Copied from Fastenal website: https://www.fastenal.com/fast/services-and-solutions/engineering/screw-thread-design
"It appears that one could theoretically increase the thread strength by increasing the length of engagement. However, as illustrated in the Load Distribution chart above, the first thread will be taking the majority of the applied load. For carbon steel fasteners (including tapped holes) the length of engagement would be limited to approximately one nominal diameter (approximately 1-1/2 times the diameter for aluminum). After that, there is no appreciable increase in strength. Once the applied load has exceeded the first thread's capacity, it will fail and subsequently cause the remaining threads to fail in succession."