360 la

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this is a comp cam and lifter set..royal purple break in oil..20 minute break in....then 10w30 with zddp added...maybe 5 hours on the motor...what is your opinion guys...guess ill have to pull the motor,tear it down,clean it out and rebuild

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bill patton said:
this is a comp cam and lifter set..royal purple break in oil..20 minute break in....then 10w30 with zddp added...maybe 5 hours on the motor...what is your opinion guys...guess ill have to pull the motor,tear it down,clean it out and rebuild

View attachment 1716174526
Click to expand...

Unfortunately yes, sorry for the bad luck.
 
Ugh! I went nuts when that happened to me.

Double check the tapper on the cam lobe and tappet.
(It’s super small)
Make sure the tappet spins freely in the bore.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Ugh! I went nuts when that happened to me.

Double check the tapper on the cam lobe and tappet.
(It’s super small)
Make sure the tappet spins freely in the bore.
Click to expand...
the lifter turns in the bore fine...roller cam now...who makes the best roller set up for a 360 la?
 
Best roller tappet? IDK! There are favorable attributes like a .810 diameter wheel that are available. Otherwise a .750 wheel seems to be a standard size. I have a .750 wheel from BAMM on my Lunati solid roller. The larger wheel turns slower for less stress. It’s a small thing but they add up.

Another thing a bunch of people do is step up to a race lifter rather than a standard duty lifter. (I guess that’s the best way to say that, accurate or not.) An example is using a standard roller lifter from Comp Cams to the heavy duty racing lifter.

The lifter wheel can come in a few different sizes but for me, the axle that is bushed is the way to go over roller bearings. A direct oil feed to the axle I also like. Also a low or mid lifter oil band (if so made that way) I also like so it doesn’t get uncovered at high lifts.

If your lift is under .570-ish or so, you’ll probably not need to worry about this but it should be checked anyway. If the oil band is exposed, low oil pressure will result.

Shop around, keep poking around to explore what’s out there.
 
I’m not really one of those “the sky is falling” types wgt cam failures.
That being said……..it would be a pretty tough sell to get me to use a FT cam these days(and I def wouldn’t in a customer build).

There are things I don’t love about HR cams(and I don’t feel a SR is always a good fit in every application), but at least one thing you can be pretty sure of with the HR.
The cam won’t go flat on break in.
 
im back guys...put a howards retro cam in my la360...cl713175-10...525 lift cam with rollers..used 98438-k32 springs on my 202 j heads..had the heads machined for the springs...the old dart runs hard but sounds like crap..valvetrain noise especially cruising around 2500 rpm..using harland sharp 1.5 roller rockers and smith brothers pushrods...got the preload on the lifters at 3/4 turn...the lifters stay pumped up well,no issue with them..but I dont like the noise...these springs have 122/353 pressure..will they be ok on a hydraulic flat tappet cam?...or is there anyway to quieten the sewing machine down,lol
 
bill patton said:
im back guys...put a howards retro cam in my la360...cl713175-10...525 lift cam with rollers..used 98438-k32 springs on my 202 j heads..had the heads machined for the springs...the old dart runs hard but sounds like crap..valvetrain noise especially cruising around 2500 rpm..using harland sharp 1.5 roller rockers and smith brothers pushrods...got the preload on the lifters at 3/4 turn...the lifters stay pumped up well,no issue with them..but I dont like the noise...these springs have 122/353 pressure..will they be ok on a hydraulic flat tappet cam?...or is there anyway to quieten the sewing machine down,lol
Click to expand...
60 pounds of oil pressure cold...25 hot...stock oil pump..10-30 valvoline vr-1 oil...
 
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