360 question

[NewToMopar]

First look at my name, I know a lot about Fords, GM and AMC but next to nothing about Mopar.

I have an opportunity to pickup a 1991 Dodge 360, with auto transmission. This engine came out of a Dodge car and has approximately 98,000 miles on it. It is supposedly a LA engine with a factory roller cam.
It has the serpentine belt setup and comes with all the accesories. (Fan, water pump, air conditioner compressor, power steering pump. alternator)
It runs, but other than that I do not know.
It has a Throttle body induction system.
I am thinking about putting this engine in one of my 65 Barracudas.
So here are the questions:
1. Does Throttle Body = Fuel Injection? If so is it worth keeping? Can it be tuned for more performance? I like the idea of Fuel Injection.
2. I do not know what kind of horse power this engine makes, so how hard would it be to make a moderately responsive engine out of it? (not going stroker route)
3. Can this engine be mated up to a Manual transmission? I have a fresh 833 OD transmission sitting in the shop right now.
4. How hard will it be to install, issues/problems? The engine bay/transmission are empty right now.
Thanks

 

[rollin]

1. yes throttle body is fuel injection thees a guy on this board selling wiring harness for this conversion on this website. no not really on the performance tuning on the t.b. but fuel injection is nice

2. heads, cam, intake, the old addage horsepower cost how much do you want to spend.

3. yes it can all you need is bell housing clutch setup and wiring and odds and ends.

4. motor mounts tranny mounts wiring and drive shaft mostly bolt in stuff.

imo. ditch the throttle body stick a edelbrock intake carb of your choice and the 833 and have fun

 

[273]

You'll need a car oil pan, ditch the the tbi for a carb or aftermarket EFI, factory net HP is 210 but mild cam, headers and rpm intake will get you 300-350 gross hp depending on cam choice.

 

[rumblefish360]

There is a possible problem in the use of a manual trans where a automatic used to be. The crank may not have been drilled out for a manual trans input shaft and bearing set up.

IMO, ditch the fuel injection for two reasons.

1; your going to need to re plumb a fuel pump in line to meet the higher pressure demand.

2; If the above doesn't scare you, the computer that drives that system is not upgradeable to performance levels. You can swap in minor RV cams as such the like in the Comp Cams catalog. They are very small. Enhanced torque while remaining emissions / 50 state legal.

Installiing this engine into your car unless already equiped with a V-8 will require swap mounts.

Can somebody get a link up for this fellow for the swap mounts for me please. (Running outta time here, work.... )

Otherwise, the wireing can be cut and shortened or extended as need by you. Easy to do.

Performance wise....what ya wanna do?
OH yes, it should be a roller cam. BONUS!

 

[66durgederp]

my drivetrain in my 66 is from an 87 gran fury, vin M highway patrol setup. 318 with 360 top end (factory) and a 904 trans. along with whats said above, motor mounts especially, http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/63.66aBody.html#head1 theres much more to consider. manifolds may be a nightmare, factory 273 mannies will be restrictive. theres people on here who have used the magnum manifolds and whatnots. for my 66 i used a 74 valiant 360 drivers side manifold and a center dump 360 (smooth casting) manifold on the passengers side with a sweet manufacturing u-joint coupler (from speedway motors) on the steering shaft. required some steering sector mods, removing 3/4 of an inch from the shaft and machining a double-D face, and clearance is barely 1/4 of an inch. However it worked for me, and i retained the original column shift without any issues. An oil filter 90 degree adapter is required too, along with the drop drag link (if your fish doesnt have one) the radiator outlets may be mis-matched as well, the slant radiator can work, not too well, but it will work. I ran mine with a slanty rad. all summer, averaged right around 210 tops on a steaming hot summer day in traffic. An original V8 rad lower outlet will be on the opposite side as the 90 motor. another thing too is on 65 the output from the trans was a ball and trunnion monster much like the original steering sector joint, in 66 it was changed to a splined yoke/u-joint type. this will need to be adressed, pretty sure it wasnt changed from 66 to 89ish. 904 to 727 tailshaft lengths are different, driveline length will differ accordingly. if your setup doesnt already have a nippondenso mini-starter, GET ONE! it will save a ton of headache down the road. the distributor for 1990 was a hall effect type with no vac adv provision, id change it if you plan on running an OE or MSD type ignition setup.

 

[BillGrissom]

Throttle body (TBI) is a type of fuel injection, not as good as multi-port (MPFI), but better than a carburetor for driveability and fuel economy. If you plan a street car, the existing computer should be fine. If it moved a truck, it will sure move your light car fast. One downside of your setup is the heavy cast-iron intake. If you want to be able to tune the TBI, look at controllers from Howell Engineering, Megasquirt, or Holley Commander 950. As mentioned, you would need an external electric fuel pump and return line to get ~20 psi. Several posts on that.

If you want a more performance cam, but retain low rpm driveability and not drive your computer crazy, look at Rhoads leak-down lifters. Not sure if they made a roller lifter version. I expect you could retrofit any SB cam & lifters, even mechanical lifters with rocker arms from a 273.

Your auto trans probably has a lock-up torque converter, which is good for highway mileage. If a 904, it probably fits your tunnel, a 727 requires beating the sheet metal lip flat. If an overdrive (4 speed), you probably must cut the tranny tunnel and re-weld plate. At least people who install a Magnum engine & tranny must.