360 questions

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Brandon6849

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I have a 360 LA with the J or X heads don't really know because they have the same casting number. And was wonder if it would be wise to get a magnum 318 or 360 and use the heads roller cam and lifters. I'm kind of on a budget build and wondering what route i should go any help would be appericated. Thanks!!!
 
if you're on a budget and there's nothing wrong with the LA, I'd stick with the LA. Magnum 360s require an expensive intake or you to drill the heads for a LA intake to fit it. Plus you can't just use the LA heads on a magnum block either.
 
Keep the 360...you should be able to see if they're J or X heads by the casting marks by the spark plugs. That being said, either set can be easily worked to produce decent numbers depending on your expectations.

EDIT: hell, even if they're smog heads, they can be worked to run well

How's the bottom end look?
 
I echo the same "Keep the LA block" thinking. The roller cam in the Magnum is a broom stick. The LA heads even if there not a X or J can be redone & ported cheaper than new Eselbrock heads and there trip to the machinist. Though getting them to flow as good as Edelbrocks head is a different story often requiring a higher price tag. The amount of flow the letter head cam get can still make for a very powerful street/strip engine.

Cam wise, a stout Hyd. Cam or a really beefy solid grind is still cheaper than a roller cam. Excellent performance can be rung out of it easy enough with careful tuning.

To help keep within your budget, search here and elsewhere on line for some of the parts you require. If your handy on rebuilding a carb, that will save you an easy 50% on the price vs a new one.

I don't know what kind of build your after. But I have run 12's with stock port heads. Though the car was kind of narrow in its street performance manors.
 
Keep your x or j heads and have 2.02" intakes put in them. They will run fine.
 
Brandon6849 said:
what about the roller cam and lifters? i could use them?
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If you wanted to go roller, you could, but why not just stick with a flat tappet hydraulic with your heads and 2.02" intake valves. It will run great with less $$$ invested.
 
I just always thought that roller stuff freed up horsepower. And i could get a magnum motor around a hundred dollars. And use the spider roller cam and rollers lifter. And maybe the heads if it helped.
 
Not that easy. The Magnum stuff doesn't jus swap over and bolt in. If it did, you would have read about it by now. You can swap the heads and intake onto the LA block, but that is where it ends and IMO, it's a step backwards.
 
Brandon6849 said:
I just always thought that roller stuff freed up horsepower. And i could get a magnum motor around a hundred dollars. And use the spider roller cam and rollers lifter. And maybe the heads if it helped.
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If you want a roller cam engine, then go seek out an '88 - '91 engine. That is when they had hydraulic roller cams and you can still bolt the LA intakes.


We're building a 91 360 for my son's 71 valiant 4 door. We got it half way together so far. Hughes cam and LD340 intake.


All I'm sayin' is that if you have a LA engine keep it as it is and have some fun with it. If you want roller, get a roller block engine and start from there. Trying to morph between the two can get complicated.
 
The roller cam bit is nice to have, but certainly not a necessity-don't allow yourself to be hung up on it. Like Rumble alluded to, and I'll add there are literally hundreds of off the shelf grinds to choose from that would work well with your stock heads and a decent intake to provide you with a fun street/strip car--lots of potential. Don't forget though, the engine is only a part of the package...more cam demands more stall, and more gear...more power means you'll tweak the chassis a little harder...going faster, and getting there quickly means you'll need good brakes. Just keep everything in perspective and come up with a no-bs goal of what you want to accomplish, and go from there.

Oh-Welcome to FABO! Use the search function-there's thousands of helpful threads on here, and check out the resto threads--really cool stuff there!
 
Are you learning? That is cool. What is your wrenching experience?. We have to teach your ,correctly.
 
Just stock i think i don't really know the guy i got it off of said it was a crete engine. The casting number under the valve covers gives a number that the X and J heads share so i don't know without pulling the head and measuring the valve. It had a 2200 stall torque converter, 410 gear. and a 284/484 cam it seems to me it was mildly built.
 
read above...X heads last 3 are 894, J heads last 3 are 915. My guess though, you have 915s; regardless, they're a good match for a mild 360
 
915s...some variations did exist. My brother has a set that's minus the "1" in the number..348915...I think they're a service replacement casting, but I'm not sure.

In any case, 915s are J heads...have them checked for cracks, a good 3 angle valve job, bowl blend, back cut valves, and a port match will yield some good results. If you want more, start reading on how to port heads or you can have someone set them up for you. Just depends on what all you expect out of it.

Do you have a hp or ET goal, or just a stout running street car?
 
You might want to start looking at someone who can work those heads a little then...400 is a healthy 360, 500hp N/A out of a 360 is getting pretty racy...put in the right chassis and good driver, that's approaching-if not into-a 10 second 1/4 mile. With thoughtful prep, parts selection, assembly, and complete package, you can easily have a streetable 400hp N/A pump gas 360...you'll just need to buy stock in your favorite tire company. :)
 
I'm not saying you can't have a 500hp 360, but it would be a bit of a chore to drive on the street, and would require more mods to the rest of your drivetrain-let alone the engine itself. 400hp in a properly prepped car for the strip, anyway, may be some 11s...just depends on your end goals for the car.
 
What is your real world level of experience and familiarity with engine building? Have you pulled this engine apart yet to determine the current condition?
 
You shouldn't be too far away from 400 hp now
Im assuming you have headers what carb and intake you running, also Im assuming you have a low compression too since you said stock. It will hard to make 400 + hp with low CR. So head work 2.02 open the bowl, gasket match and a CR bump should get you there.
 
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