360 suggestions...

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Dart_Guy

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I have a 360 that I got from a 78 Cordoba. So it was buried in emissions stuff.

I am looking to get it into my 71 swinger with the bare minumim. Put back on it.

So, where can i find some info on the parts that I can bale or keep. I was thinking about buying a new Carb and intake, Is this good or should I try to keep the stock from the 78? I guess what I am after is what an engine needed in 70-71 in order to run and what I can re-use or have to buy.

I looked through here a little and will continue to search it out, but if someone could point me in the right direction that would be cool.

Thanks.
 
or, if you just want to get it running, Buy a stock intake or aftermarket intake, and do the guts at a later date.

Phil
 
I'm not exactly sure on your direction or needs. So, from what I gather, you'll need the min. parts list to make the swap happen. Since you didn't say what engine the swinger has;

Swap kit from http://www.engine-swaps.com/, though I think trans dapt makes a cheap kit for the earlier cars like yours. Adam has done this. He can help there.

Exhaust manifolds for an A body may differ abit. Otherwise, headers. Summitt has them cheap. I have had no problems with them on my E body in the past. But all small tubes headers are hit and miss.

Keep all mounts and wires from the donor car. Ditch the distibutor and pick up a vacuum advance unit. Then a trigger system. Weather it be a stock box or orange box or a MSD.

I'd do a new intake and carb. The stock late 70's carb has no port for the carbs vacuum advance. Choice intakes would be a cheap ($25) stock iron or upgraded to a excellent RPM. (OK, pricey, but very very well worth it. ( Very well worth it! )

You'll need your drive shaft cut and a A body tranny mount. There shorter than a B body. (Been there done that)

You can remove all emission parts (If your state is ok with that) and plug them up. You might have to get a little crafty with rad hose's and tranny kick down's since the B bodies are arched differently. Lokar makes a very easy to install kick down and if wanted, throttle cable set up. The kick down was cheap and in my car in under 30 min.'s. Hardest part was jackin up the car.

Of course, a floor shifter is cooler and easier to install rather than the stock colom shifter. IMO, for a cheap $100 or so, it's well worth it.
 
I am kinda confused. after reading this latest post, I scrolled to the top to see if you were using the a body or e body tranny...and it didn't say anything.

I think ,maybe you should update your post and let everyong know what you want to do with the engine,Privide the following info...
  1. just get it running quick, mild build, or build the piss out of it.
  2. also let us know what tranny you are using, and if it as A body trans or...?
  3. what engine was in your A body befor
  4. What parts do you have right now...if any
  5. what are you going to use the car for driver, race...
  6. you also should provide rear end info, and brake set up. Alot of people start to add horse power with out thinking about the brakes. Your car is only as strong as its weakest link! Its cool if you can do the 1/4 mile in 10 secs and all, but its not cool if you have trouble stoping on the public roads.
without all that info, we can't really sugest what to do to the engine/car because right now...the sky's the limit!

From my understanding, you just wanted to get it on the road quick and cheap...but who really knows.

Phil
 
I apologize for being somewhat vague. you guys know your stuff, but I guess mind reading isn't a talent you possess too...

Anyway, I do just want to get it running and intend to replace the minimal for now. I can't justify spending a ton of cash on it just yet.

I am using the tranny that came with engine, a 904.

It was a slant 6 and I replaced the k member with a V8 spool mount type.

The 360 I bought has everything from the Cordoba except the kick down. So thanks rumblefish, I will probably go with your suggestion. I also want to get seom headers instead of the manifolds that came with it.

The cars intended use is to drive around and enjoy with the 360 with minor upgrades to get it on the road. In 5 years or so I will take it to the next step and go for some horsepower.

My brakes have been upgraded to disc up front and the rear will be disc as well. My buddy builds axles and is putting a 60 together for me in the next few weeks. It is way overkill, but the price is right and when I get more Horsepower, I will be ready for it.

So yes, right now, quick and cheap, but I will spend a little to prepare for whats down the road.

So, my nrxt step is to take it one issue at a time and I am goign to start with the carb and intake.

Thanks again for taking the time to post even though I was a bit vague. I usually post at work and I am in the middle of a promotion and posted that kind of in a hurry. I should have taken some more time with it.

thanks!
 
Does your 71 have a v8 in it now ? If so then use all the mounts, exhaust, etc from it and transfer it on to the 360.

In any event, you need the following:

Exh system - either cast iron dart v8, or headers for 67-76.

Engine mounts for a spool type 73-76 K and either 340 or 360, not 318.

Biggest radiator and fan as will fit in the 71 probably either 22 or 26 " rad. with a shroud.

matched set of: pulleys, alt, and pwr steering brackets, if your car has AC you can use the cordoba stuff. If not then try for used parts in a set, they are cheaper. Aftermarket repro's are available too. Be sure to get the correct waterpump for ac or non ac application.

Correct hoses for the radiator and a 318, or 340 in a 71 dart.

Shift linkage parts, for column or floor as needed.

You will need a v8 trans: a 727 would be nice but a built 904 will work too. Note that the torque converter on 360 applications have counter weights on them for engine balancing. If the cordoba trans is available - use it.

For a nice calm driver style motor - if it runs as is, slap a cast iron 340 intake on it with either a TQ or an avs or afb and run it. You'll need the correct kickdown linkage parts for a 4 bbl application.

If you want a little more - throw a 340 stock cam in it, you will have to change the valve springs if you do.

You can ditch all the emissions crap from the 360. You only need vacuum advance for dizzy, power brake booster (if so equipped), a pcv, and a breather for the valve cover. You might also have a vacuum operated heater control depending on ac or non ac as well.

Correct length drive shaft.

That should cover it.

Good luck with the parts hunting !! Hit the mopar swap meets in your area, this sites parts for sale section, moparts.com parts sections, and ebay.
 
My Idea of cheap must be different than most.

I think you should Put the tranny from the cordoba up for sale, and buy an A body tranny. That way you don't have to mess around with getting your drive shaft shortend...then if your Auto tranny goes...you will have to also get another cordoba tranny if you shorten your driveshaft. keep your A body and A body.

You should be able to sell your tranny for the same price as buying an A body one. You also won't have to mess around with the trans linkage as much

Hmmm Cheap....

get the best cheapest intake you can get...if your not happy with the options that you have...then splurg on this and get something you can use now, and when you build it later. Take a look...http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-5076&autoview=sku

of course if you do this then you will need a carb as well...given that your 360 has a 2 barrel

get some headers for cheap

get some motor mounts as mentioned above

and a body linkage

aside from the small stuff that will nickle and dime you to death...oil, filters, hoses, vacume line, plugs and wires etc etc.......YOUR DONE.

you should be able to do it for around $400 if you buy used, and around $800 new.

Phil

you don't need a cam, or anything.

you also might be able to put the engine in as is, and plug all the lines. but that would make your engine look like a pin cusion.
 
I am not going for a pin cushion look and I do have a small budget set aside for the Dart so I can spend some cash on better stuff. As long as it is within a reasonalbe amount.

The drive shaft will need shortened anyway due to the D60 getting put in there. Motor mounts are covered with the new K member. Got 2 old ones on the engine, and I got two more with the K-member the guy sold me. (If anyone needs some 360 mounts let me know.)

I am leaning towards spending a little more on the Carb and intake. the current carb is a 4 barrel. I guess it was a sorty Cordoba?

I will start sifting through all this information tonight after I get home and start searching out my options and decide which path I intend to take.

Thanks for all the great i nformation, this is exactly what the kind of info I need. I repalced the whole front end and learned a lot from that, and now the egine options will help me learn even more... My head is swimming right now.

thanks!
 
I would not sell your mounts until you are ready to install the motor. My guess is the doba mounts arent the same as the A body 360 mounts.

If the 360 was a 4bbl, then why not use the TQ and intake thats on it ? Just plug the egr with a plate and then drill and tap the intake ports inside the manifold and plug them. It'll be set up to work as is with the kickdown linkage and so on - assuming its the three piece style, if its the single rod style then there might be firewall clearance issues.

BTW - These kickdown set ups are hard to come by in a complete set, so if it doesnt work for your body/engine setup - keep all the parts together and sell them as a set.
 
Just a thought! If you plan on leaving the cam stock and running an Auto trans you may want to think about a dual plane intake. A single plane intake has a high RPM band and if you plan to play on the street more than the track and also dont plan to mess with the cam, it would probably be benificial to stay in a reasonable RPM band for the street.
 
Just a thought! If you plan on leaving the cam stock and running an Auto trans you may want to think about a dual plane intake. A single plane intake has a high RPM band and if you plan to play on the street more than the track and also dont plan to mess with the cam, it would probably be benificial to stay in a reasonable RPM band for the street.

I recomended single plane because I was looking at the big picture. I thought he said somewhere that he wants to build the engine down the road...in which case he would have a good intake for then. I'm just thinking cheap is all. whe buy a part if you have to buy a different one later.

Phil
 
I am triyng to keep it cheaper, but after hearing all advice and options I may just spend the money now and get it rebuilt with a better cam and what not. I am waiting for someone to call me about some pricing now. If it seems reasonable I will get it done now and not worry about it later.

Thanks for all the input, I am still trying to digest all the new information! Lot of learning in one little thread for me, at least I now know what to start researching.
 
If you are going to rebuild...do it once, and do it right. Don't chince out on one thing. because you will have to take the motor back out and replace it later...that is if that one thing doesn't brake and wreck your motor.

make sure you get some better compresion then what you have...don't just do the cam, take a look at the cylenders
 
That is kind of whay I am thinking about doing it all now instead of trying to bolt stuff on that I will be reusable down teh road. Once and done, sounds a lot easier then twice and done...
 
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