383 builds for drag car

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monc440

monc440

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Ok I’m starting to put together my game plan for the engine build for my 72 Duster. I have built 383’s and 440’s in the past and like them both. I’m leaning towards building a 383 and wanted to hear from you guys on what kind of ET’s you have been able to achieve with a similar combo.

The car has been stripped of all interior. Has fiberglass hood, fender's and deck lid. The hood and deck lid hinges and springs have been removed. Still has all the factory glass. Stock front suspension. Has super stock springs 8 3/4 with 4.56 gears and spool. Has 13.5 x 28 slicks. The guy told me it was a 10:50 car with a mild 440.

So far for the engine I have a set of stage VI heads. The heads are as cast but I plan on polishing the ports. One reason I’m leaning towards the 383 is I think the heads will flow enough for the 383 but might be a restriction on a 440. I have an idea of the engine I want to build but I would like to hear what kind of times you guys have been able to get with a 383 in a similar car and what was your engine specs.

Thanks

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Those State VI heads are pretty good and could lower a 330 pretty good. They would be great on a 383/400. I see these big blocks like big small blocks with that short stroke. The MP tips section has use of the Stage VI heads in the 10 second bracket tops section. They also suggest their porting templates, a mushroom lifter cam, tunnel ram and 5.12 gear with 14X32 inch rubber. Maybe a bit much? IDK….

I still and will always say, Run the best head you can afford. Port those Stage VI heads as well as possible. It’s worth the return on power no matter how fast you go.

W/4.56 gears, the tips section has that in the 11 second zone.
They suggest a single plane, 750, their mechanical 296/.557 cam @ a 11-1 compression ratio in a 3200 lbs (or less) vehicle weight.
They used to offer a OEM ported head and it’s suggest here as well but those of which you have are far better.

Also, FWIW, the MP tips section has the Stage VI in use for a first mention with a 440 in the 10 & 9.90 et top sections. With the .590 am mentioned in the 10 sec et.

The heads are capable on ether displacement.
 
FIRST, how much power you looking to make?
Second, for me the choice between 383 or 440 depends what rpm you want/willing to turn to make that power.
 
rumblefish360 said:
They suggest a single plane, 750, their mechanical 296/.557 cam @ a 11-1 compression ratio in a 3200 lbs (or less) vehicle weight.
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mid 11's with a ported head, at least 3500 stall convertor and 4.56 gear
 
That’s if you can get what Chapman got at 380 cfm.
I don’t know if that’s an easy feat to reproduce, or better.
Still, the lower 350 cfm head is a good bit of flow for a 383/400 to run on.
 
Step one: determine the budget for the engine.

Step two: decide the performance goal. This will establish a hp target.

Step three: see if step one and two are aligned with each other.

Original Stage 6 heads can have lots of issues.
Have someone carefully look them over before committing them to your plan.

My take on a stock stroke 383 is…….they’re reasonably cost effective up to about 500hp.
For over 500hp, other options start to look more appealing.
 
I'd keep this simple. Get the heads ported well. Run the old tried and true TRW/Speed Pro forged 12:1 domed pistons and use the .590 MP solid flat tappet cam. Simple and effective.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'd keep this simple. Get the heads ported well. Run the old tried and true TRW/Speed Pro forged 12:1 domed pistons and use the .590 MP solid flat tappet cam. Simple and effective.
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Old school recipe.:thumbsup:
You old fossil. :D
 
Thanks for all the input. The stage 6 heads I have are not the old castings that had many issues but they are not Chapman heads. I will check out the links listed above and I wasn’t aware of the MP tip’s section so I will check that out.

The last 383 I built was 30 over with the old TRW domed pistons, stock rods, forged crank all balanced. MP .528 mechanical cam, roller rockers. The heads were a set of ported 452’s milled down to about 84cc’s. TM6 intake with a 750 double pumper. It ran 11:90’s in an old 63 Plymouth that I think was around 3600 pounds? 4.11 gears and 28x 10.5 slicks. 727 trans with manual VB and 3000 converter. I drove it quite a bit on the street and only had it at the strip 3 times.

I was thinking about replicating that build with a bigger roller cam, the stage 6 heads and better intake. How much RPM can the stock rods take?
 
My ultimate goal is a 9.99 car. I know I don’t have the budget to do that this year and I’m just getting back into racing. This year I want to build a car that I can afford and can have fun with. I will be happy if I could see low 11’s and would be ecstatic if I got in the 10’s.
 
440 all the way, your heads are good, tunnel ram, 2 750's or 850's. big *** solid cam or roller if it's in the budget, light weight high compression pistons, aluminum rods or polish the beams on the stock ones with new bolts and balance it, 2" headers, tti's or fender wells, 8" convertor.
 
273 said:
Didn't say was, kind of an Arbitrary number though, I just read about a Stage VI headed 470 build making 774hp @ 6700 rpm.
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I've seen that engine on a YouTube Dyno video. It's in a nice blue dart if I remember correctly
 
monc440 said:
My ultimate goal is a 9.99 car. I know I don’t have the budget to do that this year and I’m just getting back into racing. This year I want to build a car that I can afford and can have fun with. I will be happy if I could see low 11’s and would be ecstatic if I got in the 10’s.
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Can you afford to have a factory 440 forged steel crank ground to b mains and bbc rod journals 3.91 stroke.
You'd end up with 450ish cubic inches in a 383 block. With 6.70 rods and 1.32 ch pistons get about 11.5 compression. That would be a good short block for your stage six heads. Or same crankshaft in a 440 with 3.91 stroke 470 cubes.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'd keep this simple. Get the heads ported well. Run the old tried and true TRW/Speed Pro forged 12:1 domed pistons and use the .590 MP solid flat tappet cam. Simple and effective.
Click to expand...
I agree with the exception of not using the mp cam as those cost twice as much as better designed cams from Hughes (I know, not your favorite lol) or Howard's, and damn those pistons are heavy as hell. But still work!
 
monc440 said:
Ok I’m starting to put together my game plan for the engine build for my 72 Duster. I have built 383’s and 440’s in the past and like them both. I’m leaning towards building a 383 and wanted to hear from you guys on what kind of ET’s you have been able to achieve with a similar combo.

The car has been stripped of all interior. Has fiberglass hood, fender's and deck lid. The hood and deck lid hinges and springs have been removed. Still has all the factory glass. Stock front suspension. Has super stock springs 8 3/4 with 4.56 gears and spool. Has 13.5 x 28 slicks. The guy told me it was a 10:50 car with a mild 440.

So far for the engine I have a set of stage VI heads. The heads are as cast but I plan on polishing the ports. One reason I’m leaning towards the 383 is I think the heads will flow enough for the 383 but might be a restriction on a 440. I have an idea of the engine I want to build but I would like to hear what kind of times you guys have been able to get with a 383 in a similar car and what was your engine specs.

Thanks

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Are you going to polish the outside of the heads to make them shine???
Please don't do that to the ports, rougher the better...think fuel atomization

IMG_20230902_113150438_HDR.jpg
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I agree with the exception of not using the mp cam as those cost twice as much as better designed cams from Hughes (I know, not your favorite lol) or Howard's, and damn those pistons are heavy as hell. But still work!
Click to expand...
I meant the grind. The MP cams are impossible to find, unfortunately.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I meant the grind. The MP cams are impossible to find, unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I loved the mp cams myself but as a more financially responsible person as of late I hated paying the premium lol
 
monc440 said:
Thanks for all the input. The stage 6 heads I have are not the old castings that had many issues but they are not Chapman heads. I will check out the links listed above and I wasn’t aware of the MP tip’s section so I will check that out.

The last 383 I built was 30 over with the old TRW domed pistons, stock rods, forged crank all balanced. MP .528 mechanical cam, roller rockers. The heads were a set of ported 452’s milled down to about 84cc’s. TM6 intake with a 750 double pumper. It ran 11:90’s in an old 63 Plymouth that I think was around 3600 pounds? 4.11 gears and 28x 10.5 slicks. 727 trans with manual VB and 3000 converter. I drove it quite a bit on the street and only had it at the strip 3 times.

I was thinking about replicating that build with a bigger roller cam, the stage 6 heads and better intake. How much RPM can the stock rods take?
Click to expand...
The MP tips section is located in their big block engines book.
Stock rods can take a lot since they’re 4340 forged. It’s not the rpm that kills rods it’s poor timing or excessive pressure from detonation, turbo boost, things of this nature.

It would be best to get aftermarket rods because rebalancing and sizing rods is about as much never mind grinding on the rod to smooth it out and make it lighter along getting rid of stress risers (AKA Prone crack areas under extreme stress) & then getting HD rods bolts.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Yeah, I loved the mp cams myself but as a more financially responsible person as of late I hated paying the premium lol
Click to expand...
I know that's right. Ken Heard has some grinds real close at Oregon Cam too.
 
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