383 rods dilemma

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Gabriel Larson

Gabriel Larson

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building my first motor a 383 and came into a dilemma. its a budget build and don't know what rods to get. the two ones i was looking at were the 440 source factory replacement and the eagle H beam. what like some opinions on it!
 
Your budget build isn't like my budget build...

I've used Eagle rods... Nice stuff... But in a budget build I'd be using the stock rods with new bolts & time spent polishing the beams... Have them shot peened & resized... The 383 with stock rods in my Challenger has seen 6800 rpms on many occasions & never a problem...
 
I would use stock rods, too. I guess it all depends on location. Around here, I can get stock rods reconditioned pretty reasonably. I also install all my own rod bolts, so that helps with cost.
 
the machinist recommend replacing them so I kinda just went with it. the motor came with 16 pistons so i got connecting rods that for sure
 
BUT, since you didn't ask about factory rods, I'll come back and answer your question. If I was building something, I would go with the 440 Source products. Unless you spend a grand or more, on Carrillo or some such, they all come from China, but the 440 Source stuff seems like decent quality. We also have a good member here, @PROSTOCKTOM who is a Molnar dealer. I don't know where the Molnar stuff is made, but it's good quality. Maybe Tom will chime in and let us know, since I tagged him.
 
I guess I don't know what a "budget build" is. I would recondition the stock rods with ARP bolts.
 
Murray said:
I guess I don't know what a "budget build" is. I would recondition the stock rods with ARP bolts.
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no I think I don't really know what a budget build is lol. that definitely seems to be the consensus
 
A $3-400 set of H beam rods are more than enough for a mild big block.

I will say that stock rods are pretty darn tough. If I was starting from scratch it would be H beam rods. If you aren't going to race it of run a power adder the standard bolts will suffice. If you spray it or whatever run 2000's.
 
MY.02: Stock rods with new bolts. if you can get a light weight aftermarket piston and then balance the assembly (this is the money you would have spent on aftermarket rods)
you are way ahead. the lighter piston takes a huge amount of load off the rod, Plus Mopar rods were very good pieces.
 
Unless the rods AND pistons being used are the same weight as factory pieces, the rotating assy will need balancing.
New H beam rods are a good investment. They are made of stronger steel, are lighter, have bigger/stronger bolts [ 7/16" v 3/8" ] but most importantly, they are stronger in an area of the rod that is weak....& where rods often break. H beam rods use a threaded bolt, not a nut & bolt like the stock rod. The stock rod has a machined recess for the bolt head...& that leaves it weaken-ed; H beams do not use this.
When you factor in the cost of reconditioning the rods & buying new ARP fasteners & you still have a weaker rod, new H beam rods become a no-brainer....
 
RustyRatRod said:
BUT, since you didn't ask about factory rods, I'll come back and answer your question. If I was building something, I would go with the 440 Source products. Unless you spend a grand or more, on Carrillo or some such, they all come from China, but the 440 Source stuff seems like decent quality. We also have a good member here, @PROSTOCKTOM who is a Molnar dealer. I don't know where the Molnar stuff is made, but it's good quality. Maybe Tom will chime in and let us know, since I tagged him.
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It's made in China, machined in the USA.
I have all my Molnar boxes still
 
Gabriel Larson said:
building my first motor a 383 and came into a dilemma. its a budget build and don't know what rods to get. the two ones i was looking at were the 440 source factory replacement and the eagle H beam. what like some opinions on it!
Click to expand...
What is your goal for performance?
 
I have a set of speed master h-beam rods, not in my 470 but they're a pretty good affordable quality rod. I've seen many sets at work and the machining done on them is pretty damn good.
The ones I purchased were cheap, this was before they started using real arp bolts.
When I use them eventually I will just replace the bolts with 2000 and resize them if needed.
Now for the factory rods they can be rebuilt with better bolts and nuts, they will be fine. But just check the costs before of both.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Probably pretty decent stuff, then.
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It's very decent stuff. The only thing that was messed up on my rods was the tip of the r (Molnar) on 1 rod was a little shorter compared to the other 7 and that happened in the states lol
 
****, I just went over to 440 source to take a look.
$250.00 for a set of cap screwed rods... BRAND NEW.
That's a great deal.
Just have the machinist check them out and run those
 
MOPARMAGA said:
****, I just went over to 440 source to take a look.
$250.00 for a set of cap screwed rods... BRAND NEW.
That's a great deal.
Just have the machinist check them out and run those
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that what i decided to go with order them Sunday night!
 
Gabriel Larson said:
no I think I don't really know what a budget build is lol. that definitely seems to be the consensus
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IMO a budget build means save where you can but dont put the engine together if anything is questionable. Which means clean ,measure, inspect everything to make sure. Where you save in money is an investment of time ...for example if you dont have timne to clean and inspect a cam and lifters buy new, but can a old cam and lifters be used? yes if its good and the lifters go back on the same lobe...that may not be the best example but this may be better ...I always buy a new oil pump but an oil pump can be disassembled and checked. That is something i dont want to spend time doing so I eat the cost etc. Im sure I have set aside good usable oil pumps but in a build I want a new oil pump if I was in a cash flow bind id clean and reuse one.
 
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