RUFF62
Well-Known Member
On a 383, what type of adapter do you use with aftermarket manual temp gauge that goes into the block?
383 WITH AFTERMARKET TEMP GAUGE
- Thread starter RUFF62
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Well it might as well be me;
Whatever it takes to make it fit. Now I know that sounds flip, but that's just the way it is. The block hole is SAE-pipe threads, and there are only about 4 common sizes, which are 1/8,1/4, 3/8and 1/2. The hole at the front of the intake is 1/4, I think.
The gauge could be anything SAE or Metric, so you are on your own there.
The problem is when they are not the same and you stick an adapter on there, and move the sender up away from the moving hot water, into a stagnant hole, and the body into the airstream of the fan.Then the doggone thing can lie to you. Heres the thing; if the water level drops below the sender tip, then the sender loses all calibration. They only accurately measure liquid temperature.They are terrible at measuring air-temperature. So you may be bombing along on the edge of melt-down, and the gauge might read "cold".
So the best idea is to not use an adapter. That sender-head has to be in the water, and stay in the water.
Since I know nothing about big-blocks, I can't help you figure this one out, but on sbms with aluminum intakes, drilling and re-sizing an available hole is easy. Re-purposing a hole on a cast-iron intake is only a little more trouble.
I have also seen them mounted in the T-stat housing, but Ima guessing room in there is tight, and the housings are somewhat thin and fragile.
Hang in there, someone will be by in a while.
Whatever it takes to make it fit. Now I know that sounds flip, but that's just the way it is. The block hole is SAE-pipe threads, and there are only about 4 common sizes, which are 1/8,1/4, 3/8and 1/2. The hole at the front of the intake is 1/4, I think.
The gauge could be anything SAE or Metric, so you are on your own there.
The problem is when they are not the same and you stick an adapter on there, and move the sender up away from the moving hot water, into a stagnant hole, and the body into the airstream of the fan.Then the doggone thing can lie to you. Heres the thing; if the water level drops below the sender tip, then the sender loses all calibration. They only accurately measure liquid temperature.They are terrible at measuring air-temperature. So you may be bombing along on the edge of melt-down, and the gauge might read "cold".
So the best idea is to not use an adapter. That sender-head has to be in the water, and stay in the water.
Since I know nothing about big-blocks, I can't help you figure this one out, but on sbms with aluminum intakes, drilling and re-sizing an available hole is easy. Re-purposing a hole on a cast-iron intake is only a little more trouble.
I have also seen them mounted in the T-stat housing, but Ima guessing room in there is tight, and the housings are somewhat thin and fragile.
Hang in there, someone will be by in a while.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
I think there is a spot on your water pump housing that most BB people use.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
When I got my car it had an adapter between the sender and the intake that caused the gauge to read 15 degrees lower than the engine really was.
The adapter was only about an inch long, but that's how much off the gauge was because if it.
Now, the current question.
There are so many different gauge and manifold manufacturers that it is almost impossible to tell someone what they need, but because of the above you need to try and use a gauge that does not require stacking adapters.
The one I have on my motor now does have an adapter for going from 3/8 in the manifold to 1/2 for the sensor, but the sensor is about 2 inches long so it is enough that it physically reaches into the coolant flow and reads correctly anyway.
The adapter was only about an inch long, but that's how much off the gauge was because if it.
Now, the current question.
There are so many different gauge and manifold manufacturers that it is almost impossible to tell someone what they need, but because of the above you need to try and use a gauge that does not require stacking adapters.
The one I have on my motor now does have an adapter for going from 3/8 in the manifold to 1/2 for the sensor, but the sensor is about 2 inches long so it is enough that it physically reaches into the coolant flow and reads correctly anyway.
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