3D printed part

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65Val said:
Steve...Sorry...sold out of Schticky's, but I can let you have a K-Tel Record Selector or a Veg-O-Matic...let me know!....I believe '67 Cuda, but don't quote me as I bought it at a swap meet, and they just looked right for the parts I needed. Yes, both are the same...I used the bottom one out of this parts control in the top of my Dart's controls.





Alright!...a down payment on my Florida condo! :blob:
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Arent condo's for old farts?? :glasses7:
If droptop chimes in I will take my chances and get 4 of them. Thanks for the info!!
 
I need a flux capacitor for a slant, How much? This 3d printing is getting really cool. Imagine if Mathew Broderick had on in weird science?
 
What material?

A local tech school I used to attend has an ABS printer.

I'm very interested in the materials cost, and how much business your school is allowed to conduct.

I've approached them about doing a batch of a sorely needed small part that I think would be super easy to do.

I don't know whether to offer them a percentage of the profit or to just offer to pay per piece plus a donation to the school.

Thanks.
 
Chuckman said:
LOL That's the part the Martian on Bugs Bunny was always trying to find for his "Space Modulator".
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"Where's the kaboom?"

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fcaXmpZydI"]Wher's the Kaboom? 2012 - YouTube[/ame]

:)
 
halifaxhops said:
I need a flux capacitor for a slant, How much? This 3d printing is getting really cool. Imagine if Mathew Broderick had on in weird science?
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Not to be "that guy" but Matthew Broderick wasn't in Weird Science. It was Anthony Michael Hall and Ilan Mitchell Smith. Just sayin...

However, I get your point. Problem is, if they had access to one of these in Weird Science, they would have ended up with just another plastic blow-up doll.
 
What software are you using to generate the parts with?
 
Tincup said:
I am in the process of ordering a 3D printer for work, I should be able to make some cool stuff. I'm curious to see how well the parts hold up.
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My experience on 3-d printed parts is that they are somewhat brittle.
 
how strong is the plastic piece when it is completed? I have heard the parts are pretty fragile
 
In industry today, parts are being printed in all types of materials, including metals. Only problem is the typical school, or home hobbyist, can't afford a printer like that. There you'll only see the kind that print the somewhat porous, fairly brittle "plastic". Never mind the CAD/CAM you have to learn to make the parts.
G.E. is actually printing some jet engine parts out of metal, on a production basis. Parts that cannot be machined, or that would have to be made out of several pieces welded together, are great candidates for 3D printing. You'll be seeing a lot more of this in the near future.
Check out the industrial 3D printers: http://www.stratasys.com/
Nylon HVAC parts:
RedDot-nylon-prototypes-forweb.jpg

Polycarbonate helicopter parts:
bell_photo1.ashx

And the most exciting of all,
Direct Metal Laser Sintering: [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=PHaXX2OoOs4"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=PHaXX2OoOs4[/ame]
 
My brother owns a plastic molding business. I naively asked him if he could make something for me. He looked at me and said "sure, that will cost about $15K" I thought he was nuts! I have since learned the molds he uses cost around $10k to $30k each. They are made on a C&C machine and a ton of variables go into building the molds. Turns out my idiot little brother grew up and got smart:sign3:
He was talking about 3D printing and the move into that direction when the plastics become more stable.
 
That's why "printing" is so attractive.

No high dollar mold investment up front.....
 
All that hobby stuff is low temp thermoset plastic, ideal for making molds for casting but the parts it creates are somewhat brittle and can cleave at any point on the x/y axis that the material is laid down on. In that example, it will probably work fine, but the wear items will most likely be cast from 3d molds. I asked once how much a mold for 64/65 taillights would cost and got the same 10-15k price range. Nice thing about that is you are handed a 'shoe' that can be given to any injection mold house and can be used to spit out perfect lenses in under 5 seconds a pair at about .18 a pop (in runs of 1000) . 3D has its place, but its still in its infancy, great for emblems if you could electropkate them.
 
I made replacements of those pins using cobalt drill bit shanks , and making the center larger rings out of 1/8" thick steel plate . I super glued those rings to the drill bit shanks, and used these spring washers with internal teeth to hold the heater control wire onto the drill shank.

No plastic that can break anymore on mine.
 
pishta said:
All that hobby stuff is low temp thermoset plastic, ideal for making molds for casting but the parts it creates are somewhat brittle and can cleave at any point on the x/y axis that the material is laid down on. In that example, it will probably work fine, but the wear items will most likely be cast from 3d molds. I asked once how much a mold for 64/65 taillights would cost and got the same 10-15k price range. Nice thing about that is you are handed a 'shoe' that can be given to any injection mold house and can be used to spit out perfect lenses in under 5 seconds a pair at about .18 a pop (in runs of 1000) . 3D has its place, but its still in its infancy, great for emblems if you could electropkate them.
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Well, all I can say is...I had them made in 2013, and they're still there, unbroken and working great!!

Thanks again to '67 dart drop top"
 
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