3rd redo of installing the super six manifolds....help with gaskets

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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OK sorry for so damn many posts about my swap from 1bbl to 2bbl system in my dddddart 225ci.
I thought I had manifolds on, but sounded louder. Oh, that would be because exhaust is seriously flowing out of the connection where the intake and exhaust part sits ontop of the exhaust pipe.
I recalled first forgetting to put that little 3 holed metal piece on, so had to remove it all and put it in. (that was my 2nd time). I did not replace the manifold gasket because it is only 1 year old and still looked good, did not tear apart when I removed the manifolds. I did have the Felpro, which i used the exhaust pipe gasket and the 3 hole metal thingy, but did not use the main gasket. I also have the Remflex gasket, which comes with a 3 hole gasket? I think I need that to stop the leak. Why didnt Felpro come with that gasket? Is there normally a gsket between intake and exhaust where they mate up ontop of the exhaust pipe?

Anyhow now I prepare to remove the entire thing again and put this 3 hole gasket in, I am wondering should I go ahead and put the remflex on tha manifold as well? It is so thick, I am concerned I cant get the nuts back on the studs. Also the old gasket is adhesed on the block. Nevermind the hell I am in trying to get the kickdown linkage working... another thread. Thanks for any ideas and help. this is a back breaker for sure.
 
Handling both those manifolds while bent over the fender is not my idea of fun! I would go ahead and use the remflex if it were me.
 
when we did our intake and exhaust, I first put the three bolts in that hold them together loosely, then put the manifolds on a flat surface to set the plane for the head face, then tightened the three bolts while I had the intake and exhaust manifolds on the same flat surface... Then put them on the engine and tightened them...

worked first time...
 
krazykuda said:
when we did our intake and exhaust, I first put the three bolts in that hold them together loosely, then put the manifolds on a flat surface to set the plane for the head face, then tightened the three bolts while I had the intake and exhaust manifolds on the same flat surface... Then put them on the engine and tightened them...

worked first time...
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that is a great idea. When I put them on, I was sorta doing one at a time, cause picking the entire thing up will break my back. has anyone come up with a 2x4 system that can support the manifold while installing? maybe put 2x4 across from fender to fender and then a rope to suspend manifolds?
 
gdizzle said:
that is a great idea. When I put them on, I was sorta doing one at a time, cause picking the entire thing up will break my back. has anyone come up with a 2x4 system that can support the manifold while installing? maybe put 2x4 across from fender to fender and then a rope to suspend manifolds?
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I had a son helping me. One guy lift while the other gets a few nuts on to hold them in place...
 
gdizzle said:
that is a great idea. When I put them on, I was sorta doing one at a time, cause picking the entire thing up will break my back. has anyone come up with a 2x4 system that can support the manifold while installing? maybe put 2x4 across from fender to fender and then a rope to suspend manifolds?
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That's why I said working with both at the same time is not fun. Can't offer any 2X4 suggestions. Got a hoist available?
 
65 Dartman said:
That's why I said working with both at the same time is not fun. Can't offer any 2X4 suggestions. Got a hoist available?
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If doing it by yourself, get the manifolds in place, then get the center nut done to hold them on while you get the rest...
 
I did that job in 1995 or so, on my Volare. I was a lot younger then. I tried to remember what trick I might have used, but no luck. I know it wasn't hard to install. But it was hard to line stuff up to where the nuts would fit. I do remember a lot of prying this way and that.
I kinda remember making some line up pins........
 
I did it like Krazykuda said. Yes, you need that 3-hole metal piece. Make sure you have it right side up, and that the heat riser flap doesn't jam on it. My other hint is to use Hylomar sealer on both sides of the gasket. Hylomar never sets up -- it stays fluid, which lets the manifolds expand and contract without tearing the gasket or losing seal. Be very systematic about torquing the manifold nuts -- I did it in 25 in/lb increments. Remember, it's only 10 ft/lb (120 in/lb) torque. Overtorquing does not help it seal.

Oh, and this last time, I found a great tool for dealing with the two center bottom nuts, that are kind of behind the exhaust downspout. My brother gave me a very long and extremely thin vintage 3/8 extension -- it's about 12 inches long, and barely bigger in diameter than a 1/4 extension, but it's hardened steel. It can reach straight in where before I was using a u-joint with two 3/8 extensions, or a wobble socket.
 
I use the magnet on the extendable stick to get them in place, then start them...
 
krazykuda said:
I use the magnet on the extendable stick to get them in place, then start them...
Click to expand...

Yeah, a magnet helps. I find it works better on the washers than the nuts. Or put the nut over a long Phillips screwdriver, line up the tip to the stud, and carefully tilt it on, with two fingers from the other hand guiding it.

Here's an idea if you have to do them one at a time (because of the weight). I haven't tried it, though. Hang the exhaust manifold first, and carefully tighten the two nuts on the ends -- these don't interfere with the intake. When you have that squared up, place the in-between metal gasket and the long bolts and the intake, hanging it on the center stud. Add a few washers and get it tightened into place so it's square, but nothing is torqued down yet. Then go ahead and tighten the exhaust-to-intake bolts. Then fully loosen all the stud nuts, and if the ends of the manifolds look even, start over, torquing them incrementally in the proper sequence.
 
mvh said:
Yeah, a magnet helps. I find it works better on the washers than the nuts. Or put the nut over a long Phillips screwdriver, line up the tip to the stud, and carefully tilt it on, with two fingers from the other hand guiding it.

Here's an idea if you have to do them one at a time (because of the weight). I haven't tried it, though. Hang the exhaust manifold first, and carefully tighten the two nuts on the ends -- these don't interfere with the intake. When you have that squared up, place the in-between metal gasket and the long bolts and the intake, hanging it on the center stud. Add a few washers and get it tightened into place so it's square, but nothing is torqued down yet. Then go ahead and tighten the exhaust-to-intake bolts. Then fully loosen all the stud nuts, and if the ends of the manifolds look even, start over, torquing them incrementally in the proper sequence.
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Yeah, that's it, we used the magnets to get the washers on the studs, then used nuts in a standard length socket with long extensions to get the nuts on... Without the extendable magnet, the washers/triangles would be fits to install...
 
Great ideas you guys. For those hard to get nuts, I had my son use a straw and slide it on, worked, then he said he was done. teenagers.
So update, today I got into it with this manifold, I loosened everything, including the mating of the 2 manifolds. I then cranked down on the nuts/bolts (3) that mate the manifolds, then I started tightening the nuts on the manifolds n the correct order. I did not remove the manifolds, not did I install a new gasket, and I did not put a gasket at the heat riser, just left the 3 hole metal piece. Started it up, no leak. However I did feel a tiny, thin, puff of exhaust coming directly out of the heat flapper stem. Crazy, nothing I can do about that I suppose. Maybe enough carbon will form and plug itself. Thanks guys for the help. Now what do I do with my original manifolds 1bbl? these fuckers are heavy.
 
If the exhaust manifold is not cracked, I see people looking for one all the time.
 
gdizzle said:
I did not put a gasket at the heat riser, just left the 3 hole metal piece. Started it up, no leak. However I did feel a tiny, thin, puff of exhaust coming directly out of the heat flapper stem. Crazy, nothing I can do about that I suppose. Maybe enough carbon will form and plug itself.
Click to expand...

It will not plug itself. There is almost certainly also an exhaust leak where the intake and exhaust manifolds meet (that 3-hole metal piece is the useless "gasket"). The Remflex gasket set includes an actual, real gasket for that location, and is well worth having. An underhood exhaust leak, even a small one, is worth fixing. Such leaks are dangerous and deadly; our cars are very porous as regards underhood fumes very easily getting into the passenger compartment.

You can buy a new exhaust manifold from a lot of different places under a lot of different brands. They are all made in China, but they are not all the same. Spending more does get you quality enough better to be worth getting. This one is the one to pick. Like all presently-available exhaust manifolds, it requires the '73-up type choke thermostat; a '72 or earlier choke will not fit. Best to use the applicable Electric choke kit corresponding to the carburetor you're using (№ 1231 for a pre-'74 1bbl carb, № 1234 for a '74-up 1bbl carb, № 1232 for a 2bbl).
 
I don't understand how you could *not* have a small leak at the heat riser flap shaft -- it has a very loose clearance, and there is no bushing. It had to have leaked from the factory. And I don't know what you could do to fix it... drill out both sides and install bronze bushings and a brass shaft? Has anyone ever done that?
 
mvh said:
I don't understand how you could *not* have a small leak at the heat riser flap shaft
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When they're in good condition, they don't leak.

it has a very loose clearance
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After years and years, yes. When in-spec, no.

and there is no bushing.
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Yes, there is—and when the heat control valve rebuild kits were still available, they came with new bushings along with the new shaft, new flapper, new counterweight, thermostatic spring, anti-rattle spring, and all the other bits and pieces.

It had to have leaked from the factory.
Click to expand...

Nope.
 
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