4 piston brembos, Master cylinder, proportioning valve confusion.

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A lotta folks installed Wilwood systems planning to use stock/ralley/their wheels. There were interference issues causing them to unexpectedly buy new wheels and tires. Be aware .
To be legal and safe you do need an emergency, so I'm glad you are persuing it.
Personally I think the "cobra style" rear caliper DrDiff offers, is very similar, and a little more cost effective, no decal?
But I havent checked recently .
 
inertia said:
A lotta folks installed Wilwood systems planning to use stock/ralley/their wheels. There were interference issues causing them to unexpectedly buy new wheels and tires. Be aware .
To be legal and safe you do need an emergency, so I'm glad you are persuing it.
Personally I think the "cobra style" rear caliper DrDiff offers, is very similar, and a little more cost effective, no decal?
But I havent checked recently .
Click to expand...
I bought these when I was looking for the fronts. My original plan was to run the stock explorer rear brakes with emergency set up, however the deal was too good to pass up on these set of all four. As they were $325. Just so happened I also found a bracket that mounts them to the ford 8.8 so now I have all those parts and figuring out best way to make them actually work. I have to look up all of my options when it comes to emergency brakes to see what’s ultimately going to be best, but I think some sort of small external caliper that’s cable driven will be my best bet.

This is what I was looking into
Wilwood Disc Brakes 120-12069-BK Wilwood MC4 Mechanical Parking Brake Calipers | Summit Racing
 
Farm supply place is pretty resourceful. I’ll have to look around I’m surei can find a cheaper alternative off of something else. I’m in the city though so unfortunately we don’t have allot of smaller places with random stuff or any thing So and internet has to be my friend
 
Maybe look at an add-on second caliper like the drift guys use? Those are usually hydraulic but you could probably find a cable-operated one.
 
Kern Dog said:
The purpose of a proportioning valve is to allow full pressure to the front and to reduce it to the rear. It can be more complicated but that is the general function of them.
4 wheel drum cars had NO proportioning...they were designed so that the wheel cylinders at each end were engineered with "natural proportioning". Of course, the engineering was not exact so you'd get rear wheel lockup sometimes but the goal was to get the car's equipment as close to 60/40 as possible, front to rear.
4 wheel disc systems in NON stock applications may benefit from a proportioning valve ONLY if rear wheel lockup is detected. You do not want the rears to lock up before the fronts because that condition usually leads to a spin out even with a good driver at the wheel.
If NO rear wheel lockup exists, a proportioning valve is as pointless as traction control on a slant six Chrysler Imperial. It will never come into play.
Click to expand...
Test your braking on an open, wet road and see how it handles. I had a 5th Ave (86',stock) that in a panic stop in the wet, the rear would be the front, quick. I do not run a proportioning valve on my KH 69' Dart (converted from 4-way drum), but I have not tried it in the wet yet. I only take it out on good days. Maybe with larger and better gripping tires in the rear you may not need a PP valve, TEST!!!! All cars like women are different.
 
I don't drive the car in the rain. The underside is not show car perfect but it is sort of detailed.
Out here in California, it rains in the Winter almost exclusively. It is highly unusual to get rain in May through November.
 
That's all part of the importance of the small m/c bore .
The ability to more precisely modulate the pressure applied to the pads/shoes .
 
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