400 B block

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mopar4406bbl

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I have a 400 block that is stamped 1-29-73 on it. But I see no part # just the date.How much HP & CI should that block be good for? Who makes the best girdle for mopad big block?:read2:
 
500 Inches should not be a problem. I prefer the 75 and older blocks as they are a little stronger. Happy Horsepower
 
Yes,I hear the 500 ci is a very good engine, but I was thinking more like 540ci.
 
If you are building with the sole purpose of biggest is best, then I believe 540 is the biggest you can get. But, that's a drag motor with a very short life span. The best B wedge package for all aroun life and power, is the 470. You can make the same power, a little up the rpm band (which is good, because sticking 600 pound feet aint easy on normal sized tires), and still have it last for years.
 
Yes the 72 230 block would be the one to have. But I have a 73 no # block and I beleave with a girdle it will be fine.I got the block with a car I bought, the car has a .055 over 440 motor with a motor home block in it now.Just getting ideas if I build another engine maybe building from 400 block.I have Indy 440-1 heads and I beleave they can handle 540 ci.
 
There are mid 71 casting date 400 blocks that are known as cold-weather or "230" blocks because of the part number of them. The only difference is the thickness of the cylinder castings... in theory, they should be able to be bored .060 over and have plenty of meat left. That myth was debunked byt the use of sonic testors, that found they suffer from the same core shift issues all mopar blocks suffer from (Even the MP offerings) So if the planets align, and you get the 230 block with no core shift, you got the strongest factory B wedge you can. There is no quality difference in mopar blocks. The older ones use a lower grade iron but can be thicker where you need it (again, sonic test to be sure) but later than '76 IIRC use a better grade iron, and are better manufactured, but are typically thinner over all. I prefer the later blocks myself, because the core shift is usually less, and the iron is better. I also owna good sonic testor...lol.
 
I would think the CI range would be in the 535" range. Limiting factor would be the overbore. The thicker the walls, the more cylinder pressure the block can carry. Any stock block is limited to .060" over, assuming the sonic test gives the nod.
The bottom end is as critical. You asked about main girdles, and rightly so. I would look at CRE. More expensive but they offer new aluminum caps that work with the girdle, if a bullet proof system is what you want. No worries about the bottom end...........
http://gearsandrears.com/girdle.html
 
If you haven't looked at www.440source.com they will give you all the stroker engine combos you can probably get for the B block. They are a great source for info also!
All of my buddies use 440 source for strokers and are very happy with the quality and service.

Hope this helps
 
YoungBlood said:
Not to steal a thread here but isn't the 72 '230' 400 block the "One To Have" ?
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It is IF it sonic checks OK , as is the case with ANY block you build , I have a 230 block and it needs 3 sleeves because of core shift and 2 more from rust pitting .

As far as the early vs. late block horsehockey that's been floating around that has been disproved years ago, actually the later blocks have been found to have THICKER cylinders and BETTER core consistency than the earlier blocks , the big difference is they are a little softer on the hardness scale , which depending on who you talk to is an advantage ...

To the OP have the block cleaned and sonic checked FIRST to determine how large a bore the block will accept and go from there , remember that thicker cylinder walls stay rounder under high loading better , only bore it as big as you need . I am with moper on a cube limit especially if it's going to see lots of street duty , short pistons are not very street friendly on a longevity standpoint.
 
I am only interested in a bracket motor,NO street driving. Muscle Motors has a 4.250 stroke crank for less than 440 source.I don't know if I can bring myself to use a crank made in china.One thing I notice about the 4.250 stroke is that they use a shorter rod and I beleave that would take the wrist pin out of the oil ring grove.I don't know much about the block I have,it came with a car I bought.I've never had a problem with a 440 block. I have broken a 6 pk rod & I have broke a 6 ph crank at different times.
 
If MM is selling a crank cheaper, it's not a US part either. Ohio crank, Eagle, Scat, 440Source, even Callies, are all using the imported stuff now as thier cheapest lines because cost is ALWAYS the first question. If it's a bracket racer, I would go the B rod (6.535) and the 3.915 stroke. Run a head that makes the power you want in the rpm you want, and it will last for years. A piston shorter than 1.45 compression height is asking for wear and stress, plus, you add a lot of friction thru side loading. IMO, it's just not worth it. A properly designed race engine can go beyond 800hp in that configuration on race fuel. The RB is taller by a little less than an inch IIRC. That allows for a taller piston for any given stroke/rod combo.
 
Oh I'm sure the M M crank is made in China. They admit they have a china line of cranks they sell. I have a Eagle crank in my 440 now, but didn't think it was from china.Nothing from china should say Eagle on it unless it's a bird.I read that 97% of this stuff is made in china,wish I knew who made the other 3%.I guess that's why I have heard so much bad about Ohio Crankshaft.I'm not in a hurry my 440 I'm told only has about 8 runs on it since fresh.I haven't built a car motor in about 30 years,all this stuff that is available for the big block mopar is so cool.Sure wish I knew that someday I would want to build another engine. I sold 2 426 Hemis for $3500 one ran great &1 had a spun rod bearing.The one that ran had 2 4500's on it, of coarse I sold my 6 bbl road runner about the same time. People over 50 should not watch PINKS.
 
Well thanks for your replys, but my 400 turnes out to be a 440 thak needs a sleeve.
 
JohnRR said:
Your friends impress easily ...

:snakeman:
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Have you ever used parts from 440 Source? We have used them for quite a few years and have consistently ran low 10's with their parts! All that on pump gas!
I would say that is pretty good.
There are 8 cars in our group that all use 440 source and have had no problems.
 
Dorian said:
Have you ever used parts from 440 Source? We have used them for quite a few years and have consistently ran low 10's with their parts! All that on pump gas!
I would say that is pretty good.
There are 8 cars in our group that all use 440 source and have had no problems.
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No , not those parts specifically but I have seen the results of the use of their parts when the person didn't think they had to send the crank and rods out to be corrected because they were not usable as shipped , though many claim they are .

As far as low 10's , it takes alot more than a crank and a set of rods to go FAST , when the parts are CORRECTED they are no different than anyones elses offshore product , want to save even more , look up hawksracing on ebarf , same parts FOR LESS .

If I need cheap chinese junk cranks and rods I buy K1 products , spend a little more but at least the parts are MACHINED CORRECTLY and you don't get the round around if something gets through that is not .
 
Here's what the early 400's like like with the aluminum caps minus the plate

S4021080 (Medium).JPG
 
JohnRR said:
No , not those parts specifically but I have seen the results of the use of their parts when the person didn't think they had to send the crank and rods out to be corrected because they were not usable as shipped , though many claim they are .

As far as low 10's , it takes alot more than a crank and a set of rods to go FAST , when the parts are CORRECTED they are no different than anyones elses offshore product , want to save even more , look up hawksracing on ebarf , same parts FOR LESS .

If I need cheap chinese junk cranks and rods I buy K1 products , spend a little more but at least the parts are MACHINED CORRECTLY and you don't get the round around if something gets through that is not .
Click to expand...

Well I guess we build them properly here... We have never had any problems with 440 source, either with buying parts or using them. I suggest you keep your remarks to yourself until you have bought their products and used them for yourself.
 
Dorian, John has the experience. The reason he has not bought is because of that experience, and his eye for detail. I have used 440Source parts and I'm very familiar with them. From B/451" to RB/505", i've measured 6 or seven packages over 4 or 5 years. The first one had issues. The latest one had the same issues. The parts are first and foremost affordable for more builders than the well machined stuff. Quality of manufacture was definately NOT a primary concern. Nor has it shown over time to be an issue to improve on. I am wondering what things you've found and decided were non issues? I know what to look for and what it takes to correct. As I said every kit had the same issues, except one that had a unique problem that i'm sure was just an "oops".
 
Moper,

Can you recommmend a reasonably-priced sonic tester that would be appropriate for measuring cylinder-wall thickness?:read2:

I am not doing any commerical work; this would be just for a hobby application, so absolute quality is not the issue; money IS, but it has to be accurate enough to be useful.

I plan on building a new forced-induction shortblock (360 Magnum) down the road, and would hate to waste my machine work dollars on a block that has thin cylinder walls, and the 360 Magnums aren't the best castings in the world, with regard to core-shift, I have been told. I would never go over .030" over, anyway, but the thicker the better, I think...

Thanks for any information!

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas
 
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