400 Big block

-

danthedewman1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2007
Messages
299
Reaction score
0
Location
Ava, Missouri
Hi..Saw a classified for a Dodge for sale with a 400 in it and I got to thinking, you know swap out. Is the 400 pretty much the same swap as the other big blocks when going into a A Body..My car is a 72 Dart. Right now it has a 318 , but originally was a /6 car. Thanks,DAN
 
The 400 makes a awesomefied stroker too.
 
Thanks..i saw the ad, and was a lil curious about the possibilities. Im no motor pro..but i can bolt it in or out. Whats a stock 400 normally put out for horsepower?
 
A hipo 400 in stock form is no where near as sweet as a 383 in my own personal experience. However, something I have always wondered about, if a 400 had its compression raised to the same level as the 383 would it not perform at a comparable level? Of course most 400s have a cast crank, but that could be easily changed, since the 383 crank is a drop in. I seem to remember that there were a few early 400s with forged cranks.
I know everybody today sees stroking as the way to go with the 400, but I like the quick revving of the low decks. Should make a nice engine especially in a light body.
 
Hi..Saw a classified for a Dodge for sale with a 400 in it and I got to thinking, you know swap out. Is the 400 pretty much the same swap as the other big blocks when going into a A Body..My car is a 72 Dart. Right now it has a 318 , but originally was a /6 car. Thanks,DAN

For under $200 you can get the Schumacher swap mounts or you can cut the saddles, move them back and find some engine mounts from a C body B-engine and done! Drops right in. Buuuuut, finding an Affordable set of headers is another thread!! Oh yeah! The trans will need to be relaced too as well as the driveshaft!
 
As stated, Schumacher mounts will work well. I did a slant 6 k frame 70 Duster with a 440 ten years back and the only mod was having to grind the k frame slightly to fit the 440 high vol oil pump. Exhaust clearances are very tight with a 440 not to mention high costs for headers. B body manifolds fit well with some angle planing on the drivers manifold.
 
I justdid a 400/727 into a '72 Duster. The Schumacher swap mounts and there torque strap was a easy to do thing. The 6 cyl. K frame needed a slight notch cut into it on the driverside, front corner of the mounting boss on the K frame. VERY easy to do.

For headers, I used B body headers and followed the instructions from big block .com's tech pages. http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/BBody.shtml
The headers I had on hand are the Headman Elites. They fit a little better than the ones pictured. More so on the passengerside clearances.

IF you go this route, I seriously suggest the following;

Remove all the steering linkages before you try to install the headers.
Remove the steering column before you install the drivers side header.
Raise the car up after you install the headers with the engine. Use your baby sledge to clearance the pipes. Lower car and test steering. Make sure there enuff room to clear everything when the car is in jounce.
(Jounce is all the way down as in bottoming out the suspension as if you were driveing down the road. Clearances shrink when the cars weight is pushed downwards on the shocks and T-bars. Similar to adding 10 people to the front of the hood and everybody jumping on it to compress the suspension. You'll want clearance or the steering may jamb up on you.)

Exhaust pipe fitting done by yourself can be a tricky thing. If you can use a mig welder, your in. A pair of "S" bent pipes can be cut and made shorter to clear the bend area. I have a clearance issue that will be solved in this manor. It is the passenger headers exit being very close to the trans crossmember frame.
 
A hipo 400 in stock form is no where near as sweet as a 383 in my own personal experience. However, something I have always wondered about, if a 400 had its compression raised to the same level as the 383 would it not perform at a comparable level? Of course most 400s have a cast crank, but that could be easily changed, since the 383 crank is a drop in. I seem to remember that there were a few early 400s with forged cranks.
I know everybody today sees stroking as the way to go with the 400, but I like the quick revving of the low decks. Should make a nice engine especially in a light body.

there's a saying and it works 99% of the time. there no replacement for displacement.if the 400 was built same cam, compression and all other items the same as 383 it would have more power. those cast cranks are tough so if your going to stay within a reasonable power level its a good piece(although the 383 crank is stronger). they do make easy stroker candidates(i have a 452 stroker and very happy with it) but they are great good pieces as 400.factory rated hp for the 400, there are 2 ratings for the 2 barrel version of 175/185hp/305/310tq...4 barrel 260hp/335tq
 
I used a 383 forged crank in my 411" turbo engine. I also used a cast stroker crank in my 460 based 514 and it held up for years at over 750 horsepower. It had alot of mallory heavy metal in it to balance it but it did just fine. After I found a hairline crack in the main webbing it came apart and broke the crank in three pieces. Catastrophic failure I say! I went with a Nodular Eagle crank in a newer truck block and it still lives today with 945 horsepower at the flywheel and runs 5.40's. Guess its just a shot in the dark!!
 
Thanks..i saw the ad, and was a lil curious about the possibilities. Im no motor pro..but i can bolt it in or out. Whats a stock 400 normally put out for horsepower?
the hp is about 170-260 hp.a 400 due to low compression pistons.unless u stroke it out,put higher compression pistons in it.
 
-
Back
Top