400 stroker rookie

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M.Bozz

M.Bozz

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High guys, im kinda new to mopars and I picked up a clean body 1972 swinger and building a complete drivetrain for it. I've started with a 400 block and bought a stroker kit for it, so my question is how is my engine combo so far
400 block, 499 stroker kit from Mancini Racing
girdle kit with alum main caps and everything arp
12.1 compression ( e-85 ) fuel
Edelbrock Max wedge heads
1.6 rockers
link bar lifters
roller cam 260/264 dur,619/624 ( with 1.6 )
lobe sep 109, this is for street and more track car with small shot
4500 indy intake with holley 4500 sniper and dual sync distributor
looking to make around 700hp so what do you think ? thanks
 
I’m not really a big block guy but I don’t think you’ll want a Max Wedge head and a 4500 carb intake for street duty. I do believe you’ll do better with a standard intake (4150) and regular heads like the Trick Flows.

Contact member @AndyF
 
Well that is a lot of engine for a first time build. If you don't have a ton of experience then you're going to need a good engine builder to help you get that monster all sorted out and dialed in. Personally I'd ditch the girdle and I'd return the dual sync and get the Hyperspark distributor. I don't have any experience with the 4500 Sniper but since you have it you might as well make it work. 500 inches is probably big enough to run the max wedge heads but it might be a little soggy on the bottom end. You'll just have to try it and see how you like it. Depends on the drivetrain and the car weight and stuff like that.
 
If you are near Tempe AZ.....see Mr. Maurer...
Blank

click on the blank link it takes you to Maurer Performance
 
AndyF said:
Well that is a lot of engine for a first time build. If you don't have a ton of experience then you're going to need a good engine builder to help you get that monster all sorted out and dialed in.
Click to expand...
Understatement.........I'm still chuckling.
 
M.Bozz said:
High guys, im kinda new to mopars and I picked up a clean body 1972 swinger and building a complete drivetrain for it. I've started with a 400 block and bought a stroker kit for it, so my question is how is my engine combo so far
400 block, 499 stroker kit from Mancini Racing
girdle kit with alum main caps and everything arp
12.1 compression ( e-85 ) fuel
Edelbrock Max wedge heads
1.6 rockers
link bar lifters
roller cam 260/264 dur,619/624 ( with 1.6 )
lobe sep 109, this is for street and more track car with small shot
4500 indy intake with holley 4500 sniper and dual sync distributor
looking to make around 700hp so what do you think ? thanks
Click to expand...
It has the potential.
 
AndyF said:
Well that is a lot of engine for a first time build. If you don't have a ton of experience then you're going to need a good engine builder to help you get that monster all sorted out and dialed in. Personally I'd ditch the girdle and I'd return the dual sync and get the Hyperspark distributor. I don't have any experience with the 4500 Sniper but since you have it you might as well make it work. 500 inches is probably big enough to run the max wedge heads but it might be a little soggy on the bottom end. You'll just have to try it and see how you like it. Depends on the drivetrain and the car weight and stuff like that.
Click to expand...
Well it's my first mopar motor, I do have experience ( 30yrs in the field ) but a lot more familiar with Chevy motors and my last car went 5.1 in the 1/8. I know all the fundamentals are the same but you guys all been there and done that with mopars. I just wanted to build something that can be driven on the streets from time to time. As far as the 4500 I was going to do the 4150 but felt the cfm would be maxing out but would be better for a daily driver. Andy why would you ditch the girdle setup ?
 
M.Bozz said:
Well it's my first mopar motor, I do have experience ( 30yrs in the field ) but a lot more familiar with Chevy motors and my last car went 5.1 in the 1/8. I know all the fundamentals are the same but you guys all been there and done that with mopars. I just wanted to build something that can be driven on the streets from time to time. As far as the 4500 I was going to do the 4150 but felt the cfm would be maxing out but would be better for a daily driver. Andy why would you ditch the girdle setup ?
Click to expand...

This engine is very close to my 505 . Andy and IQ52 are experts don't get me wrong!
But:
I would go w/ fully cnc ported "standard" port heads, and a big 4150 carb , on the tallest single plane intake u can run. If u go f.inj. use a cam for fuel inj.------jmo
 
rumblefish360 said:
After reading a lot......
I thought it may be a bit much for a “street” engine.
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You already know this..........I guess, we guess, on what kind of street engine the other guy would like. My ideas of "street" cover a large expanse. I had a 2.46:1 gear ratio 72 Satellite with a 7.9:1 compression 440 and a 509 camshaft. It would gently pull away from a stop, drive smoothly around town with no power (like my Stratus) and get into it's happy zone @ 90 mph (where the Stratus quits). Loved driving it. Then there was the 72 Demon with a 850 HP big block, 278/280 @ .050", .800" lift cam, ported Max Wedge Victor heads, single plane, 1140 cfm Dominator. Drove easily around town and was another fun "street" car.

"Everyone to their own taste," said the old lady as she kissed the cow.
 
IQ52 said:
You already know this..........I guess, we guess, on what kind of street engine the other guy would like. My ideas of "street" cover a large expanse. I had a 2.46:1 gear ratio 72 Satellite with a 7.9:1 compression 440 and a 509 camshaft. It would gently pull away from a stop, drive smoothly around town with no power (like my Stratus) and get into it's happy zone @ 90 mph (where the Stratus quits). Loved driving it. Then there was the 72 Demon with a 850 HP big block, 278/280 @ .050", .800" lift cam, ported Max Wedge Victor heads, single plane, 1140 cfm Dominator. Drove easily around town and was another fun "street" car.

"Everyone to their own taste," said the old lady as she kissed the cow.
Click to expand...
Lol true, I just need both worlds, drive around in class and kick some ***
 
Stealing the slogan!

I guess I need a little help in what you would call a street engine. Of course this term varies widely and wildly. Certainly this is not a one size fits all shoe.
Tell us about your shoe. And or your last build you want to top.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Stealing the slogan!

I guess I need a little help in what you would call a street engine. Of course this term varies widely and wildly. Certainly this is not a one size fits all shoe.
Tell us about your shoe. And or your last build you want to top.
Click to expand...
Driving mostly to car shows and maybe to work. My last build was kinda a mid age crisis thing. Never went that fast before but now I can say I've done it. Always loved mopars so thought I'd get one again. So I will be taking this one to the track and spraying a little happiness. Don't care about gas mileage either lol just want to have some fun
 
Oh! Well that sounds like a good plan of enjoyment!

What car do you have and what is the basic idea of the drive train consist of? Automatic trans? What gear ratio and tire size might it have?

Expand on the build ideas!
 
M.Bozz said:
Well it's my first mopar motor, I do have experience ( 30yrs in the field ) but a lot more familiar with Chevy motors?
Click to expand...

Well, you Chevy guys are used to having to add things like girdles, screw-in rocker studs, etc. Mopars are different, they didn't skimp on engineering things right. The B engine has a stout bottom end, better than the RB, the crank is well supported.

I'm not a big block guy either but I would recommend you get a book written by Chuck Senatore, Big Block Mopar Performance. $24 on Amazon. He was the founder of Muscle Motors and built lots and lots of big blocks. His favorite combo was a 400-based stroker.
 
KosmicKuda said:
Well, you Chevy guys are used to having to add things like girdles, screw-in rocker studs, etc. Mopars are different, they didn't skimp on engineering things right. The B engine has a stout bottom end, better than the RB, the crank is well supported.

I'm not a big block guy either but I would recommend you get a book written by Chuck Senatore, Big Block Mopar Performance. $24 on Amazon. He was the founder of Muscle Motors and built lots and lots of big blocks. His favorite combo was a 400-based stroker.
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Thank you and I will into that book. I'm not one of those sensitive guys about Chevy motors but 1200whp with stock block and factory heads and stock rockers. 2 yrs of running it and yes upgraded internals. I have no more interest in them and want to build something nice with full interior
 
rumblefish360 said:
Oh! Well that sounds like a good plan of enjoyment!

What car do you have and what is the basic idea of the drive train consist of? Automatic trans? What gear ratio and tire size might it have?

Expand on the build ideas!
Click to expand...
The car has sub frames and been mini tubbed. Will have full interior with a factory center console and bucket seats. As far as trans it will have a built 727 and a dana60 rear. Not sure on Gears and stall yet, I like building around the engine since most TC companies want to know engine specs
 
That’s very true on converter specs. I was thinking in general terms. Perhaps asking intended cam size would have been better.

But now I’m really getting a picture of your direction and that is a huge help though I might not be.

But I do like this thread so far!
 
rumblefish360 said:
That’s very true on converter specs. I was thinking in general terms. Perhaps asking intended cam size would have been better.

But now I’m really getting a picture of your direction and that is a huge help though I might not be.

But I do like this thread so far!
Click to expand...
Here is the car

20180311_101641.jpg
 
Whooooo-Weeee!

That goes for the car and cam!
LMAO!!!!
 
Build it as a 511 instead. Chevy rod is a better fit and a bit lighter with a longer skirt piston depending on the kit CH/RL you use. MW heads would be my choice. either a 1050/4150 or a 1050 dominator will Work good if properly tuned. Camshaft you showed is a good street grind.
 
M.Bozz said:
Well it's my first mopar motor, I do have experience ( 30yrs in the field ) but a lot more familiar with Chevy motors and my last car went 5.1 in the 1/8. I know all the fundamentals are the same but you guys all been there and done that with mopars. I just wanted to build something that can be driven on the streets from time to time. As far as the 4500 I was going to do the 4150 but felt the cfm would be maxing out but would be better for a daily driver. Andy why would you ditch the girdle setup ?
Click to expand...

The girdle and aluminum main caps aren't required for the power you said you wanted. But then you added another post about nitrous so maybe you'll be making more power. It doesn't seem like a nitrous cam so I'm not really sure which way you're going. Are you working with an engine builder or are you planning to bolt it together yourself? A lot of engine builders won't touch the girdle and aluminum main caps but maybe you have one who is okay with that kind of stuff. I've built a lot of Mopar race engines and I've never used a girdle or aluminum main caps in any of them. I used to try a bunch of "trick" stuff but these days I build them fairly simple and they seem to work better.

Are the heads ported or out of the box? I assume those are Victor heads? If so, you'll want to work with an engine build who has some experience with the Victor heads. I'm not a fan of them myself but there are guys around who have figured out how to make them work. Brian at IMM is in SoCal and he could help you with the build if you don't have an engine builder.
 
AndyF said:
The girdle and aluminum main caps aren't required for the power you said you wanted. But then you added another post about nitrous so maybe you'll be making more power. It doesn't seem like a nitrous cam so I'm not really sure which way you're going. Are you working with an engine builder or are you planning to bolt it together yourself? A lot of engine builders won't touch the girdle and aluminum main caps but maybe you have one who is okay with that kind of stuff. I've built a lot of Mopar race engines and I've never used a girdle or aluminum main caps in any of them. I used to try a bunch of "trick" stuff but these days I build them fairly simple and they seem to work better.

Are the heads ported or out of the box? I assume those are Victor heads? If so, you'll want to work with an engine build who has some experience with the Victor heads. I'm not a fan of them myself but there are guys around who have figured out how to make them work. Brian at IMM is in SoCal and he could help you with the build if you don't have an engine builder.
Click to expand...
I am planning on a small shot, I really didn't care for it after I frost bit a motor awhile back but I figured just a little bit can't hurt lol. The Victor heads haven't been touched yet and what I'm Gathering from here that it's a much for my motor so I my just clean them up some. I will look into IMM and see what Brian thinks.As far as the girdle I was just nervous about the block breaking so I actually bought that first before the block lol, thanks for your input and experience, you guys already been there and done that so I live the info. Would it be better if I went to a little bigger bore to utilize that has a little better ?
 
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