408 horse power?

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rob_robinson87 said:
Yeah, I thought about a different intake and heads, but I was keeping things cheap and wanted the motor to have more of a "stock" look to it. (Yeah, it won't look stock to any Mopar guy). I was also concerned with location of my A/C compressor and how many intakes move around the heater fittings, etc. The car is going to be a street fun car- no real full out runs.
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Don't get me wrong..the LD340 still made 400+ HP, its just that I was able to do a legit. "back to back" comparison..so thought you'd like to know.8-)
 
I guess im going to have to get that book. I am taking the car to dragway 42 the friday before laborday and I will see how she runs. I bet the tires will spin the first 60 feet out of the gate

I have a 750 eldbrock and I doesn't seam over kill with the stock distributor I am loosing some power next upgrade is a Protronix 3.
 
The 750s make good power, they just fall off a cliff around 5500. Least that's been my experience. I get a little more overall, and can carry it better wiht the larger carbs.
 
ramchargermike said:
I guess im going to have to get that book. I am taking the car to dragway 42 the friday before laborday and I will see how she runs. I bet the tires will spin the first 60 feet out of the gate
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As the old saying goes "spinning ain't winning" so maybe take it out on a deserted back road and practice your launches. Spinning a lot can really kill your times.
 
Yup. Nolt enough guys go and read the burnout marks either. I drive over the starting line of our "local" drag strip (the highway) and you can always see the cars riding the edges of the tires because there's not enough air pressure when they don't get the full burnout like at the track.
 
moper said:
Yup. Nolt enough guys go and read the burnout marks either. I drive over the starting line of our "local" drag strip (the highway) and you can always see the cars riding the edges of the tires because there's not enough air pressure when they don't get the full burnout like at the track.
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I do look at mine but most of the time their is only one. I took the wife and kids for a ride and back end went to the right making all kinds of noise but no marks at all when I went back??
But I have 350to miles on the engine now. Almost time to change the break in oil and put in "Joe Gibbs HR4 and a Amsoil filter" good for 25k. Oil changes. Very higher zinc in the oil.
If u have any questions about this oil we sell it in our speed shop and I have info.

What im getting at is the friday before labor day a bunch of my Mopar buddies are going to drag way "42" in west Salem Ohio to play with our cars.
 
Why not. Amsoil, joe Gibbs oil are man made oil and their is a little more to it than that. It depends on the type and the weight. Just have to have zinc to protect flat tappet cams.
 
A 4" crank, good pistons and stock rocker gear. Are you building an engine or shopping at KMart?
 
How did u guess.
No built the engine. I work at a machine shop we build alot of old school Hemi's. And street rod engines. Im just saying that a good engine can be built for close to the cost of a major rebuild. If I want to build a built proof engine with the best parts around im looking at like 7-10 grand. Who can afford that.
 
Ok well i went to the track it was hotter than heck but i got 4 passes in.
1st pass not good ran a 16.40 dang near spun the tires down the whole track.
2nd pass 17:22 ran out of fuel at the 1/8 car was vapor locking because it was so hot out.
3rd pass 15:51 didnt melt the tires but still ran out of fuel.
4th pass had a good start minimal spin quick power up, wiped out second gear in the trans got into drive and ran a 16:40.

I have learned I need to sand bag the start until I upgrade the rear end and run slicks. I also learned the all the times I thought it was cool to be going 30mph and nail the gas and burn the tires I was burning up my trans. Lots of lessons learned here. Now its time to beef up my trans and rear end. I like my highway gear but one wheel spin bad. Going to have to do some parts research to built a bullet proof trans and rear end if i am going to keep the 408 in my car. I just might put the 318 back in and build a car to handle this engine i built. I dont want to twist up a low millage numbers matching car just to play with on the street. I guess i dont need HP or torque numbers to know that this engine is one heck of a monster. i guess I should call my car the "Hulk" now because of the power and its green. LoL. Thank you all for the input and help with my question. Its nice to know power can be built with out spending 5 grand. But if I was going to race every weekend then A forged crank and stronger rods would be used. I will also use aloy heads. Most likely RHS, I like their flow numbers and cost.
 
what did it MPH, that' will tell you a bit more about the HP at rear wheels.
 
Well you need a posi rear at a minimum , with that motor it's like launching on ice with an open dif . I tried it last year and spun 1st 2nd , let off the gas cruised through the 1/4 ran a 14.6 a 96 mph . You'll need cheater slicks as well or full slicks to turn a good time .
About the syn oil , I have run a few cars over 300,000 miles with oil changes at 20,000 with no problems . They did not even burn an 1/8 of a quart between changes , not one had ant engine problems , were clean when I took off valve covers and oil pan . Oil changes every 3000-5000 miles keeps business busy read $$$, don't think it is necessary with syn oil .
 
jerry6 said:
Well you need a posi rear at a minimum , with that motor it's like launching on ice with an open dif . I tried it last year and spun 1st 2nd , let off the gas cruised through the 1/4 ran a 14.6 a 96 mph . You'll need cheater slicks as well or full slicks to turn a good time .
About the syn oil , I have run a few cars over 300,000 miles with oil changes at 20,000 with no problems . They did not even burn an 1/8 of a quart between changes , not one had ant engine problems , were clean when I took off valve covers and oil pan . Oil changes every 3000-5000 miles keeps business busy read $$$, don't think it is necessary with syn oil .
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I agree it was like driving on ice. blowing the trans didnt help either. More power then i ever imanged. I love Now i want to build A 426 out of a 360 just to do it. I'll run fuel injection I think. I got a 1972 318 I think i can punch out pretty big also I guess they make stroker cranks for them now and can go 90 over bore with out a problem.
We use amsoil in our shop truck its got 300k on it and oil changes every 25k runs good. I started running it in my van and got improvements over regular oil. better gas millage and little to no oil usages.
 
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