408 stroker fuel requirement?
- Thread starter J.B.
- Start date
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First off, you are worried about fuel consumption in a muscle car! Drive across town with cans to buy fuel for another car!!!!! Omg! Sell it and buy a smart car. First of all with that compression and aluminum heads you can burn regular fuel!!! All this nonsense about mixtures & amounts lmao that's nitro methane top fuel. If you like carburetors then get a hp 800 ish and drive the car like any other. All this google talk is clearly obvious. Locking the timing...wtf are you talking about! Son All these kids on here talk rubbish. A distributor is simplicity. Set the floats,bowls,diaphragm spring,timing and drive it like another car. Put in champion small block spark plugs .Stop listening to all these internet Google mechanics. Get the direct connection mopar books and know them inside & out. Wasting race gas out the exhaust yes I know my delivery is rough but it's common sense.
I'm looking at building a tow pig small block magnum based engine, not sure which displacement yet, don't know if it'll be a 360, 390 (stroked 318) or 408. I'm scouting my stash and also scouting available parts and "bang for the buck" factor, on what's out there. I don't need or want anything exotic, don't want to go cheap for the sake of cheapness, nor whole hog for the sake of bragging rights, but don't want to be wasteful in what I spend on parts. Basically buy what I have to, and not what I absolutely don't need.
It will in all likelihood be fed by a 4bbl and a TQ at that. I want the best I can get doing as much of the parts shopping and assembly as I can possibly do in my garage. But I don't want to be hauling my camper 2-3 states away having to do premium fuel at every fill up
It will in all likelihood be fed by a 4bbl and a TQ at that. I want the best I can get doing as much of the parts shopping and assembly as I can possibly do in my garage. But I don't want to be hauling my camper 2-3 states away having to do premium fuel at every fill up
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Absolutely correct. 360 is a torque monster for a truck. Jam a big stroke in there with some forged pistons n good rods. Build for fuel mileage and low end torque. Unfortunately you will need to have the queen rubbing her eyes! A fuel injection system is absolutely paramount. I know it hurts but cost is covere
Unfortunately not only are carburetors outdated for street vehicles, those carburetors are nothing but junk, actually the recycling doesn't even want them for scrap . Fi will pay for itself pretty quickly. 360 is the only option for truck torque. A good rotating assembly with a low end camshaft. Jesus I want to build a torque monster now. My next trip to the can is planned out now. All say that bastard will make 500 ish footpound of torque. Perhaps give the heads the old Ham & Cheese in around the runners & gasket landings. Kind regards
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Carburetors outdated for street vehicles? Nothing but junk? Baloney.
Ok .let's have your reason for this!! Not a google answer. A real objective answer why one should use these over fi.
K I S S I don't want computers. I want simple. Fuel pump dies 3 states away? 2 bolts and less than $30 no tank drop, etc. I'll take "outdated". Carbureted worked fine for how many years? And I have never had a stock 360 I'd of called a "torque monster". And whatever goes In this thing won't be stock. No dished low comp pistons for one thing.
A 30 fuel pump!! That says it all. Who said stock parts? It's clear you know absolutely nothing. Why tell everyone on the web?
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
EFI is for people that can’t tune. In fact, I can say most guys pushing buttons still can’t tune.
I can make more power with a carb. Every time. And it will drive like EFI.
I take it you've never driven a 440 powered truck.
It never was
Did the same with a 360 mag. Recipe is pretty simple.
KB107 pistons, bottom end re-balanced, Comp 262 roller cam, Edelbrock mag heads, dressed as a LA, with a duel-plane M1 intake.
Would run on pump gas, and towed great, excellent power.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I don't have access to 93 here. 91 with 10% ethanol is the highest available with one exception. There is a place that specializes in selling gas and oil to some gas stations and large businesses. They have ethanol free 93 for about $2.50 per gallon more than regular 91 pump gas. My car runs fine on the 91 pump gas. It is a stock compression 340 built to about 375 HP. I see no reason why you can't run yours on pump gas.
Are you drunk lmao the ignorance. Son I tuned 2 1350 Dominators then Fast xfi 16 injectors on a twin turbo 610cid aluminum hemi!!! I also tuned the vacuum 6 packs. Now I tune 9's helcats & Demons. Now I drive an original hemi bee. I commend you for the nostalgia triumph. I have raced mopars for 30 years,not street class either. Tuning xfi is like adding a new cam and heads. Lmfa why do you think these new hemi cars are so much faster? I know......they have a 2 din screen! These kids know everything!!! Lol a soap dish has more sense
You have zero clue what, or who, I know. And $30 was a guess, based on the fact that it's been ~15 years since I last bought a mechanical small block fuel pump at a local parts store and that one was a whole $18 then, so that was a wild guess allowing for the fact that prices have gotten stupid since then.
Nothing has gotten cheaper since then.
Definitely easier to change if needed than an electric in tank pump, and cheaper. You can't deny that. For my purpose a stock mechanical pump will more than do the job. The whole build though won't be completely stock. Mostly, internal engine parts will be "fortified" but much of the outward bolt on stuff will be stock or stock replacement parts for "some" Mopar application, though not necessarily all for the same year make or model.
If you're so smart then enlighten us all....
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I guess I should have said NA.
Of course, you didn’t say power added either and nothing in this thread said a WORD about boost babies who use boost to cover their inability to build power.
Take your **** somewhere else bro.
Only, yet you still think a 360 is a torque monster. lmao GTFOOH
I did lol. By the way there big daddy, the pumps are not in the tank. Much easier to change then a mechanical pump that's down at the bottom of the engine..lmao this is too easy. Carburetors are a waste of money! No matter how you spin it
I believe we took over this poor dudes post, kind regards
Boost aka cfm is not an inability as we all know. It's an integral part of power, duh hahaha. One can only make so much torque without it. I needed boost to make 3654hp in a street car. 1500 ish was all I could get without huge compression. 90% of the statements from these Google racers are detrimental to themselves. Go talk your nonsense to Ray Barton or Ken lmao they will turn and walk away or hang up in your ear. Do things right son, a half arsed job is a half arsed build. This **** is the most expensive hobby a man can have, especially a mopar. Absolutely any piss cutter is $10,000 .
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
No son I'm here to stay. Il not be made to do or go anywhere thank you very much.
Son you have a huge amount of research to do, trolling this site embarrassing yourself is a waste of time . The game is research research research! Experience will come.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
lol. When you say something worth reading I’ll let you know.
You type lots of words and say nothing. The sad thing is sites like this protect people like you.
Get it now? I’ll say it this way. Whatever you say, I’ll ignore. You just aren’t worth it.
Your ignorance is obvious. When Greg Anderson says he’d go back to carbs in a second that should tell you all you need to know.
You’ve already proven you are incapable of a discussion. Plus I just don’t care.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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OP
Just so you know, this is information only;
I have run an alloy headed 367 at 195psi , on 87E10, with no detonation at full Power-Timing at 3400.
I am at 3650 pounds/me in it, and 900 ft elevation.
I run a two-stage curve using 318 springs, and
My timings are;
Idle at 12/14, climbing to
28* @2800, then to
34*@3400.
My VA has been modified to 22 Degrees and I bring it in as fast it will come.
Cruise timing at 2800 can be 50* minimum
At Part throttle,
I can add any portion of those 22 VA degrees to whatever is coming out of the distributor which also means, I can subtract any portion of those 22 degrees, if my engine ever detonated which, since 1999, it never has.
Oh and BTW
at just 10% ethanol, my fuel system has no problems. The pump is circa year 2000, the 750DP carb is circa 1970. My engine has over 100,000 miles on it since 1999.
Somebody said to do a compression test. My guess is that you will be way under 195psi.
Just so you know, this is information only;
I have run an alloy headed 367 at 195psi , on 87E10, with no detonation at full Power-Timing at 3400.
I am at 3650 pounds/me in it, and 900 ft elevation.
I run a two-stage curve using 318 springs, and
My timings are;
Idle at 12/14, climbing to
28* @2800, then to
34*@3400.
My VA has been modified to 22 Degrees and I bring it in as fast it will come.
Cruise timing at 2800 can be 50* minimum
At Part throttle,
I can add any portion of those 22 VA degrees to whatever is coming out of the distributor which also means, I can subtract any portion of those 22 degrees, if my engine ever detonated which, since 1999, it never has.
Oh and BTW
at just 10% ethanol, my fuel system has no problems. The pump is circa year 2000, the 750DP carb is circa 1970. My engine has over 100,000 miles on it since 1999.
Somebody said to do a compression test. My guess is that you will be way under 195psi.
I know the engine combo I listed above had 180 psi, I actually de-tuned it to put in the truck.
I had initially built it to go in my Duster, and the major changes were I took out a Comp 280 roller, and took the M1 single plane off. In this combination it had 215 psi.
So choose your camshaft wisely.
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