408 Stroker Kit Prices?

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MacM7

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I know there are some dealers on here. I'm wanting a stroker kit for a 360 mag. I want a forged crank and kb forged pistons, I or H beam rods, and bearings. I would like to get some prices from ya'll. PM me with your price. Thanks.
 
MacM7 said:
I know there are some dealers on here. I'm wanting a stroker kit for a 360 mag. I want a forged crank and kb forged pistons, I or H beam rods, and bearings. I would like to get some prices from ya'll. PM me with your price. Thanks.
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About 2100.00 give or take....
 
kinda high, on what i've been pricing at summit and hughes. Thought i'd give u guys first chance to make a sale. Thanks
 
MacM7 said:
kinda high, on what i've been pricing at summit and hughes. Thought i'd give u guys first chance to make a sale. Thanks
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Scat is more than the Eagle stuff but there is a reason....when you get the crank check the journals for size and taper...so figure in a crank grind by a competent shop that can keep the fillet correct on all journals and should cost around 180.00-220.00 depending on the shop.
And I've had to resize some of there rods to get them round so you might want to do more research on product QUALITY rather than PRICE.
Brian
 
i got my la 408 cast crank I beams and forged KB piston kit for about $1100 a few years ago. forged crank was a couple hundred more. they have also gone up in price a bit since then too.
 
I didn't mean to offend any one, I'm still learning. I've read some post and I believe there's more to it than a bolt in kit. I was just looking for prices on the kit not including the engine work that I know will have to be done. I was just looking for some price comparison.
 
Hughes Engines:

4" Scat Crank (sorry this is a cast crank which will make up the difference) sorry Brian.

KB forged pistons
Scat I beam rods
clevite bearings
rings

$1720
 
I think OU812 was giving you a price of a carefully checked ready to go, mic'd, polished, clearanced, balanced kit checked personally. (worth the dough, IMO.
 
MacM7 said:
Hughes Engines:

4" Scat Crank (sorry this is a cast crank which will make up the difference) sorry Brian.

KB forged pistons
Scat I beam rods
clevite bearings
rings

$1720
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Don't be sorry...i'm not upset at all. I want people to know that the cheap stuff can be a real pain in the ole' rectum.
You don't have to buy from me, but I would not buy the cheapo depot stuff that's on the ebag or wherever.
Just be carefull and do lots of research!!
 
Flatlander has some good pricing especially on SRPs and Eagle rods but they don't include the narrow bearings with thier kit unless you upgrade it. And you'll want them. For a forged crank You're going to spend upwards of $650-700. That company DJV's been pushing seems to have a very good value for the 4" stroke versions. The Eagle forged I've got now isn't nearly as average as the cast ones from Scat, MP, and Eagle I've measured. Not as good as K1 or Callies, but usable out of the box.
 
I talked to guys around here about those cranks, etc...some pretty serious engine builders. They said that they take those eagle cranks right out of the box and turn them 0.010/0.010 because they are never right. Apparently after that, the Forged ones are fine. Also, none of them will install the scat or eagle cast cranks in anything.
 
I can understand why they would say that. There is measurable taper on all MP/Scat and Eagle cranks, cast are worse than forged but all have it. It's within factory tolerance and aceptable in most of what I do so I'm not concerned. The K1 and Callies I've measured have never had any taper. This finishing work isnt perfect, but for the cost and expected usage it's acceptable. I'd rather have a $1300 Callies then spend $250 turning and polishing a $700 crank.
 
I never find taper on any of the Scat cranks...once in a while I will find some runout but I think that's due to shipping as it's sparatic and not MOPAR crank specific.

Wonder how all these engines we build and countless others around the world are doing it then....hmmmmmm
 
Brian,
It's there. Some are better than others. I'm sure I dont see nearly as many as you do, and I''ve yet to find one with zero taper. Factory spec is zero to .0005. Last MP I had the worst journal was .0003 taper. The last Callies was zero by my mic. The Eagle downstairs now has one journal at .0005. The cast eagle it replaced had two journals with .005. You know those are not fatal, but there are those biulders for whom perfect is the only way. If I'm building a race engine, it's more critical. But I dont build a lot of race engines. Almost never. So I build within the factory spec. If you haven't done it have your crank guy stick an Arnold gage on one and watch it and you'll know why some people get nervous about them. They are good value and very usable out of the box, but Eagle and to a lesser extent Scat are far from pefect. There polishing step takes too much off and the journal finish suffers just like the 440Source product. At least that's what my old teacher (also my personal grinder and my favorite shop's crank grinder) says causes that particular taper issue.
 
moper said:
Brian,
It's there. Some are better than others. I'm sure I dont see nearly as many as you do, and I''ve yet to find one with zero taper. Factory spec is zero to .0005. Last MP I had the worst journal was .0003 taper. The last Callies was zero by my mic. The Eagle downstairs now has one journal at .0005. The cast eagle it replaced had two journals with .005. You know those are not fatal, but there are those biulders for whom perfect is the only way. If I'm building a race engine, it's more critical. But I dont build a lot of race engines. Almost never. So I build within the factory spec. If you haven't done it have your crank guy stick an Arnold gage on one and watch it and you'll know why some people get nervous about them. They are good value and very usable out of the box, but Eagle and to a lesser extent Scat are far from pefect. There polishing step takes too much off and the journal finish suffers just like the 440Source product. At least that's what my old teacher (also my personal grinder and my favorite shop's crank grinder) says causes that particular taper issue.
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I've got 3 scat cranks in my shop, 2 sb mopar and one sb chevy and all 3 have less than .0003 taper. Eagles almost always have .0005-.001 taper on ALL mains.
Maybe you've gotten an old crank? I know the old MP cranks (scat) back quite a few years ago had as much as .001 taper and that's what drove guys away from Scat and other brands.
I've got a billet Crower crank in my shop right now for a BB Chevy, and it has less than .0002 taper on mains and rods are perfect.
And for the record...we polish all of the cranks that come in our shop with a very fine "micro" polish belt and slow feed. This improves the surface enough to notice while spinning the crank by hand in a block.
It removes almost nothing in the way of material just finishes the surface smoothing it.

I guess we have to agree to disagree here....
 
69Valiant4spd said:
What about a crank from Mopar Performance?
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The cost of a mopar performance isn't worth it. When I priced them a MP cost like 1800 and was rated to 800hp. My Eagle crank cost (with their esp armor) 800 and is rated to 1500hp. I say go Eagle.
 
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