413 marine industrial (E) engine, to, not so industrail......

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dodgetkboy78

dodgetkboy78

EDELBROCK HEADS SUCK!
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Alright, so, it's RB time. My 30' long boat is tired of having a single 318 in it, and so am I. (SLOW) I just picked up na industrial, with the big heads, diagonal exhaust bolts, etc. BEcause I have been driving my *** off and not thinking about MOPARS in so long, I need you guys to double check me here.

The 413 marine/industrial block is the same. This ones internal balance-steel crank I'd imagine, no weight on balancer. stock 440 heads will bolt up? This thing came off a dry stack keel cooled boat, so it doesn't even have a water pump on the timing cover. An auto/M440 timing cover will bolt up to the front? (water pump was external belt drive)

Aluminum heads..... I'd LIKE to save weight, considering I am going from LA to RB, and 110 gal fuel capacity, to about 290gal. Will or do they have/make aluminum heads, that will work good (efficient) low rpm? (hull speed cruise@1500rpm, planing cruise@2800-3200rpm, max RPM 4000)

it gets even trickier, because it's a reverse rotation, however, I playing with the idea of going LH rotation, because of parts availability, and just getting used to backing up to the startboard side.

Remember, 300HP is plenty. do they have a stock(ish) flow aluminum head? I don't want to overport it.
 
Crapped if I know. And tell them cats to quit starin at me.
 
The ootb Stealth Aluminum Heads from 440 source will bolt on just fine.... but they really need no less than 9.5:1 Compression Ratio even with 87 octane regular fuel, just to heat up whatsoever.
Be sure to Check Valve to Bore interference on the 413's small bore, you can put reliefs in the tops of the cylinders if req'd.... just use any Head Gasket as a template... you will "see" what I mean when you put a Head gasket on the Block.
Marine Cams are long "seat to seat" duration with low lift for a very broad, flat and even torque across the widest possible range.... choose wisely !
 
Thank you challenger. I figured a set of custom pistons were in order. So that's doable. Who would know what compression I would need to run 87, with a 160f thermostat. I was thinking 9-1 at first. As far as the cam, I was wanting to go short duration higher lift solid tappet. With a narrow lcl to build power up quick and drop it quick, since the useable rpm range is 1500rpm bottom to top.. And a boat has no need for idle tq, power needed is directly related to rpm. Thoughts?
 
I like the 413 idea because of that small bore thick block. :) y'all think i'd be better off with iron heads w small valves for a low rpm range?
 
I believe the 516 heads are closed chamber small valve. All bb heads 66 and older have the small valves. I bet I have a pair out in the shop laying around but shipping iron heads = not good $ense. Seems I can't give them away these days. I scrapped a dozen pair last year to get them from under foot.
Still have a dozen pair of 906 and 915s. Couldn't bring myself to scrap them all. With the cheap stroker kits and aluminum heads available today nobody wants to invest in them.
I like the iron heads myself (in with the minority here) they seem less lazy and more crisp.
I do have aluminum heads on half my engines but only because of the weight loss.

Sounds like a fun project keep us posted how this comes together.
 
Will a set off a 383 work? I don't have my b-rb book anymore. I know they fit, but do the 383 heads have a dif chamber volume. Or is it like sb, and it's just a casting #
 
did you check out the distributor diagram on the 318 and 413? each boat has 2 ,318s or 2, 413s. one rotates clockwise one rotates counterclockwise, in each boat.. both dist caps have the no 1 cyl and no 6 cyl opp of each other, at the cap. . BUT the other cap towers are diff of the other cap. of course.
 
fishmens67 said:
383 head will work.
Click to expand...

Yes - 383, 400, 413, and 440 heads are interchangeable, as long as nothing odd was done to the block to make it industrial/marine.

The 516 casting number mentioned earlier is a closed chamber / small valve 383 head, they were common on mid '60's 383s, may have been used on other engines from the factory, and came with 2.08/1.61 valves. I read somewhere that the chambers were supposed to have been 73.5cc, someone on here told me they were probably closer to 78. If you find a pair you want to use, if you plan to run unleaded without additive, make sure they have hardened seats installed. It probably wouldn't cost too much to have a machine shop install the seats and 1.74 exhaust valves for a little better flow, while they're in the shop the guy can check to be sure the spring seat pressures are within spec for whatever cam you pick out. This is what I had done to the pair I bolted on my 440.

If you can get me the casting number from the heads you have I may be able to find the same information for them.

- Steve
 
Thanks steve, I have some old truck 383s I'll tear apart. Moe, I'm going from RH to LH rotation to get away from that backwards spinning crap. I hope I can use that steel crank, so I don't have to buy one.
 
I have 2, 426 wedge marine engines. These are cooled by water with seawater intercooler. The water pump has more fittings than fleas on a dog. They also have a cast aluminum oil pan with swinging pickup. I have seen 392 Hemi, 426 Hemi, 318-360 wedge and /6 marine engines, both standard rotation and reverse rotation. The reverse rotation engine cannot be used in standard and visa-versa because the stryations on the crankshafts rear seal is directional. Used incorrectly oil will be pumped out of the rear seal. To solve rotational problems one engine has a reverser which offsets the other. 915 and 516 are closed chamber heads. Used in marine service they have exhaust valve rotators. 413 were used until the early 70's in marine/industrial/motorhome service. All 413's have steel cranks and internal balance. Hope this helps, Tom
 
Yeah, it's got a steel crank. Hope it can be used, if not, I have another, but it's 20under.... Prob just order new one. My 318 in the boat now is RH rotation with a auto crank. It doesn't leak too bad, but the RH crank I had was broken. I do wonder if I should pitch the oil cooler, todays oils are designed to run hot, and the t-stat in these marine engines are 160f... Should I pitch it? Or maybe run the bypass through it? I just hate the idea of running 50f water through the cooler like it was set up before.
 
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