413 vs 440??

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74scampga

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I was originally planning on putting a 318 in my scamp which has a slant 6 in it now.. but when i went to look at it the guy informed me that he also has a 413 and a 440 for sale. 500 bucks for either one, complete engine. Im planning on making it a street car but will b taking it to the drag strip every now and then. I was wondering what would b a better choice for my 73 plymouth scamp.....and what are the types of things i should look for before purchasing the motor?
 
440. Mostly not only due to the extra cubes, 27 of them for the same price, but the off the shelf piston selection is great.
 
Don't even fool with the 413 it is not worth it. The only thing possibly worth anything in the 413 is the crank if it is forged.


Chuck
 
Like the others said, go with the 440

Remember, 413s are RBs, not Bs.

With the extra 27 cubes, low end torque will be magnified, plus piston selection is plentiful for a 440.
 
preciate the replies, im gonna go look at the engines this weekend and hopefully pick one up. What all will i have to do to fit a 440 in my scamp? I know i need a k member but is there anything else ill have to modify? i heard its kinda a tight squeeze...
 
340mopar said:
Don't even fool with the 413 it is not worth it. The only thing possibly worth anything in the 413 is the crank if it is forged.


Chuck
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B Body guys over at 62-65 Mopar Forum are always looking for 413s
 
the problem with 413's are piston choise (unless you go with custom ie: expensive slugs). however you can expand your options by boring it .060" and using 426W pistons. personally i wouldn't toss a 413 in favor of a 440. the only exception would be the pre 62 cranks..they won't work with a 727 aluminum housing trans.
 
cut the 6 mounts and ues a motor plate and notch the k member for the oil filter, you can use 413 ex manofolds unless u go with headers
 
i just got back from looking at the engine. I got these numbers 3.28.74
3830930 440-6 and on the cylinder head 3769902. the guy said it came out of a chrysler new yorker. i tired to check around for these engine code 3830930 but it didnt seem to match up with any of the codes on quite a few charts i checked online. if u have any info on this gimme a shout. thanks
 
3698830 would be for a 1973-78 440 pass car
3769902 would be the 400/440 1974 only cylinder head.
your 3830930 440-6 block is late casting 1974 block. not sure what the deal is cause it wasn't available in 1975 and up. compression is about 7.8:1 so don't count on putting in a decent cam or anything.
 
74scampga said:
i just got back from looking at the engine. I got these numbers 3.28.74
3830930 440-6 and on the cylinder head 3769902. the guy said it came out of a chrysler new yorker. i tired to check around for these engine code 3830930 but it didnt seem to match up with any of the codes on quite a few charts i checked online. if u have any info on this gimme a shout. thanks
Click to expand...

If you're going to use the 440 the first thing you're going to need to do is get the compression up to 10 to 1. In this range you've got a large selection of cams to choose from depending on what you're building it for. The other problem is that year of engine has probably got a cast iron crank in it which will limit how many ponies you can build to before going forged. First thing Id do is drop the oil pan and post the crank casting number. Also those 902 heads are a good starting point but you'll probably want new valves springs and retainers installed. Again, figure out what you can afford then how far you want to go and we can help ya out. Or better yet take a look in this link http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/bb/22.html at the crank shaft vibration dampener and tell us what one is yours

terry

Terry
 
The other problem is that year of engine has probably got a cast iron crank in it which will limit how many ponies you can build to before going forged. First thing Id do is drop the oil pan and post the crank casting number.
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~ cast crank is good to about 600hp and lighter the the forged one.
~ stock block is good for about 650-700hp. over that is no mans land.
~ no need to post crank #'s cause its a cast crank.

i seriously doubt he's lookin for that kinda horsepower.
 
preciate the good info. im gonna keep looking for the time being and see what else i can find around my area. I was looking around the internet just getting up some info since this is my first mopar and my first big block build. i heard a couple people suggest schumacher engine mounts to go from a slant 6 to a rb engine. would this place things around factory mounting specs or would it b a little higher? if you have any experince with these or any other good info its always welcome. thanks alot
 
74scampga said:
preciate the good info. im gonna keep looking for the time being and see what else i can find around my area. I was looking around the internet just getting up some info since this is my first mopar and my first big block build. i heard a couple people suggest schumacher engine mounts to go from a slant 6 to a rb engine. would this place things around factory mounting specs or would it b a little higher? if you have any experince with these or any other good info its always welcome. thanks alot
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I used the schmacher mounts and headers to go from a /6 to a 383 in my Demon and a friend of mine used their stuff to go from a 318 to a 440 in his Duster, both with no problems. If you're still considering a BB you might want to look for a 400 block and check out stroking it, that's my next project. http://www.engine-swaps.com/ http://www.440source.com/

Terry
 
Find you a 400, drop in a 440 crank and a set of KB stroker pistons for the 451..... gobs of torque and clearance around things will be much better with the low deck motor. Doing this costs about the same as a decent rebuild excluding getting the crank turned down to 383/400 sized mains and getting it balanced. This combo runs better that just about any 440 you can build!!!
 
well if your gonna cut the mains, you may as well offset grind the rod journals for a 3.90" stroke (2.20" rod journals), use eagle/440source craprolets rods (there the correct BB MoPar width), KB/440source pistons, and end up with a 470cid with a 400.
 
preciate the replies again. after reading all of your posts and looking at some sites ive gained alot of valuable info. this engine has a cast crank, 8.2:1 compression i believe. 902 heads....im looking for like 450-500 horsepower and around 500 ft lbs of torque. im not gonna go to the track much. just want a nice fairly quick fun car to drive....so do u think i should cough up the 500 bucks for this engine or hold out for another one?
 
74scampga said:
preciate the replies again. after reading all of your posts and looking at some sites ive gained alot of valuable info. this engine has a cast crank, 8.2:1 compression i believe. 902 heads....im looking for like 450-500 horsepower and around 500 ft lbs of torque. im not gonna go to the track much. just want a nice fairly quick fun car to drive....so do u think i should cough up the 500 bucks for this engine or hold out for another one?
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If it were me I'd hold out for a pre-71 440 for that price but that's just me.

Terry
 
demon seed said:
If it were me I'd hold out for a pre-71 440 for that price but that's just me.

Terry
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theres no point in that. the forged crank is only marginally stonger (but ALOT heavier), and the 915/906 heads showed only minimal improvements in flow.
with that said, treat ANY used engine as a core..and pay accordingly. I offer him $300 and have a nice day.
 
GЯEENHOЯNET;247604 said:
theres no point in that. the forged crank is only marginally stonger (but ALOT heavier), and the 915/906 heads showed only minimal improvements in flow.
with that said, treat ANY used engine as a core..and pay accordingly. I offer him $300 and have a nice day.
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I guess I should have been more specific in my answer, it's not about the crank, it's about the comp. ratio. A pre 71 440 will be at the higher numbers (10 to 1 give or take) therefore the gentleman may not have to replace the pistons or do any deck work. A re-ring and hone may, and I say may, suffice.


Terry
 
demon seed said:
I guess I should have been more specific in my answer, it's not about the crank, it's about the comp. ratio. A pre 71 440 will be at the higher numbers (10 to 1 give or take) therefore the gentleman may not have to replace the pistons or do any deck work. A re-ring and hone may, and I say may, suffice.


Terry
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without blueprinting the block..its closer to 9-9.2:1cr on the older 440's. best money you'll ever spend is to blueprint any Mopar engine. Not to mention the older 440's (sans the 915 headed ones) have terrible quench charactoristics.
 
GЯEENHOЯNET;247868 said:
without blueprinting the block..its closer to 9-9.2:1cr on the older 440's. best money you'll ever spend is to blueprint any Mopar engine. Not to mention the older 440's (sans the 915 headed ones) have terrible quench charactoristics.
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God, why do I bother. check out link http://www.mopar1.us/CHRY-71.rtf
What's it say for the CR ratio for 71 440's and 70's. http://www.mopar1.us/CHRY-70.rtf
and 69 440's http://www.mopar1.us/CHRY-69.rtf
And right from the horses mouth in 1970 http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/DealershipDataBook/1970/70_Charger0013.jpg

Terry
 
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