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416 Stroker Boat
Hi guys, I am in the process of building a 416 stroker destined for a social ski/speed boat that is currently running a reasonably fresh mild 2 bolt 350 Chevy that pulls to 4800rpm and 55MPH (4 people on board GPS verified on flat water average of 1 run each direction to minimise any impact from river current ).
Boat is a V bottom running through a Velvet drive FNR transmission and V drive with 17% step-up. Manages to pull out 2X 200lb+ skiers from deep water starts but struggles with 3 skiers.
Would like to get to 70MPH and easily pull 3 large skiers from a Deep Start. Will spend most of its life in the idle to 3000rpm range with occasional squirts to top speed.
I currently have a 1971 360 block that was already at 4.04 and needed another 0.030 to clean up the rust in the bores (been in storage for 20 years). For those interested, attached is the Sonic readings on the block.
I already have the following for this build so far:
· Scat 9000 4.0 stroke cast crank.
· Scat 6.123 I-Beam rods
· Mahle 4.070 28cc dish forged piston kit
· ARP main stud Kit
· Mopar windage tray
· Mellings HV oil pump
· Cloyes dual row roller timing chain
· Remote dual oil filters (-10 fittings and lines)
· Chrysler cast aluminium marine oil pan.
· Crane retro roller lifters
· Alloy rocker covers (LA)
· New timing cover
· 318 neutral balance marine flywheel
· Crosswind intake
· Carter electric fuel pump
· I also have a Holley 700DP and a 750VAC for it initially (but will increase if necessary)
A few other items already decided on:
· Internal Balance
· Custom crank fired ignition (Using LS1 coils) laptop programmable in 16X16 grid (Load X RPM)
· Custom oil pump cover with additional oil pickup.
· Log type water jacketed exhaust headers out through transom via 2.5 stainless pipes no mufflers (yeah I know these limit my output but I have them and I want to keep engine cover fitted to the boat so no over the transom exhausts) water is injected into the exhaust system 10 from exhaust valve need to limit reversion during cam overlap at low RPM to avoid sucking water back onto the exhaust valve.
· Closed loop cooling via heat exchanger (so no raw water in the engine runs coolant just like in a car)
Im sticking with the small block as its what I have available and a big block is getting too heavy for the boat.
Still to purchase:
· Main and rod bearings
· Cam
· Complete heads
· Pushrods
· Neutral balancer
· ARP head studs
· Gaskets
I am after some suggestions on cam, comp and heads.
· Good idle around 800rpm
· Maxing out around 5500rpm
· Pulling hard from just above idle.
My thoughts on static compression is to run the pistons 0.005 out of the bores and 0.039 head gasket using closed chamber heads aiming for some quench at the edges of the pistons and around 10.0:1 comp. Fuel available is 98 RON unleaded (around 93-94 AKI)
Cheers
Jamie
Boat is a V bottom running through a Velvet drive FNR transmission and V drive with 17% step-up. Manages to pull out 2X 200lb+ skiers from deep water starts but struggles with 3 skiers.
Would like to get to 70MPH and easily pull 3 large skiers from a Deep Start. Will spend most of its life in the idle to 3000rpm range with occasional squirts to top speed.
I currently have a 1971 360 block that was already at 4.04 and needed another 0.030 to clean up the rust in the bores (been in storage for 20 years). For those interested, attached is the Sonic readings on the block.
I already have the following for this build so far:
· Scat 9000 4.0 stroke cast crank.
· Scat 6.123 I-Beam rods
· Mahle 4.070 28cc dish forged piston kit
· ARP main stud Kit
· Mopar windage tray
· Mellings HV oil pump
· Cloyes dual row roller timing chain
· Remote dual oil filters (-10 fittings and lines)
· Chrysler cast aluminium marine oil pan.
· Crane retro roller lifters
· Alloy rocker covers (LA)
· New timing cover
· 318 neutral balance marine flywheel
· Crosswind intake
· Carter electric fuel pump
· I also have a Holley 700DP and a 750VAC for it initially (but will increase if necessary)
A few other items already decided on:
· Internal Balance
· Custom crank fired ignition (Using LS1 coils) laptop programmable in 16X16 grid (Load X RPM)
· Custom oil pump cover with additional oil pickup.
· Log type water jacketed exhaust headers out through transom via 2.5 stainless pipes no mufflers (yeah I know these limit my output but I have them and I want to keep engine cover fitted to the boat so no over the transom exhausts) water is injected into the exhaust system 10 from exhaust valve need to limit reversion during cam overlap at low RPM to avoid sucking water back onto the exhaust valve.
· Closed loop cooling via heat exchanger (so no raw water in the engine runs coolant just like in a car)
Im sticking with the small block as its what I have available and a big block is getting too heavy for the boat.
Still to purchase:
· Main and rod bearings
· Cam
· Complete heads
· Pushrods
· Neutral balancer
· ARP head studs
· Gaskets
I am after some suggestions on cam, comp and heads.
· Good idle around 800rpm
· Maxing out around 5500rpm
· Pulling hard from just above idle.
My thoughts on static compression is to run the pistons 0.005 out of the bores and 0.039 head gasket using closed chamber heads aiming for some quench at the edges of the pistons and around 10.0:1 comp. Fuel available is 98 RON unleaded (around 93-94 AKI)
Cheers
Jamie
