416 Stroker Kit Question

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MJD323

MJD323

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Hey, I recently started the rebuild on my 340 after spinning a rod bearing. I have been informed that that the block is already punched .040. When looking at stroker kits I see that most are only offered with pistons up to .030. I was able to find a kit through Muscle Motors that offers the kit with pistons up to .040. Does anyone have any experience with this company or kit. Any opinions are greatly appreciated.

Here is a link to the kit: http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/stroker-category/small-block-stroker-article.html

The one I am looking at is the first one listed.

Thanks
 
It looks like decent parts not high end but ok stuff just recheck all the tolerances eagle is sloppy. May need to regrind the crank last one I got the mains were off. Get you block sonic checked. Before you bore the block I have seen .080 on a 340 block but older blocks have a lot of core shift some are great some need sleeve's
 
Shoot a pm over to Dustpan340 he has a muscle motor 340 in his car, he just put it in too, I think they are pretty trustworthy, but ask Wayne, he will tell ya straight up, I am sure you can get any size pistons you want too, but you'd better have you block sonic checked before you order anything.
 
kb has IC744 piston in 4.080
IC745 piston in 4.080
IC969 piston in 4.080

anyone who sells stroker kit can reconfigure it to fit your piston need.....if you are buying a SCAT kit...they use KB pistons...

after looking at your link...I would run away from the eagle cast crank.........do a search...you will see a few cracked eagle cast stroker cranks...
 
Yep sounds like his off center torque convertor caused it, wondering why his rods are rusty too in the pics. I didn't know about the issues Eagle was having with thier cranks and rods until I already had my motor built, If I had it to do all over guess I would go forged too. Maybe go Mopar stroker crank?
 
mopar cranks are made by Scat...both forged and cast...
 
Thanks for all of the input. I would rather have a forged crank, but price is gonna play a big part in the decision. (unfortunately)

As for the heads, right now I plan to do some mild port work to my factory set of J heads and get a valve job as well. Also replace the springs as I plan to run a camshaft in the .500 - .520 range. Intake is a Performer RPM, 750 Holley. Looking to build the motor out to run on pump gas, so no more that 10.1 compression.
 
OK, so I dropped off the block at the machine shop today to have it checked before I order anything as suggested. They do not have a machine to sonic check it but will magnafllux it to make sure there are no cracks and that it is a good starting point.

As for the stroker kit, I am still leaning towards the cast crank kit from Muscle Motors Racing. I would like to get a kit with a forged crank, but I think cost is gonna prevent that. Unless someone knows of a comparably priced kit with a forged Eagle crank.
 
You can get a complete Scat cast kit for less than $1300.00. How much less would you expect to spend. This is pistons, rods, 9000 crank, rings and bearings. Or completely forged Scat complete plus balanced for under $1800.00 Dan
 
I meant the price difference between cast and forged.

That is about exactly what I was planning to spend. The kit on the Muscle Motor Racing site was listed at 1199.00. But by the time it is balanced and shipped it is considerably more. I was wanting to stay with an Eagle crank, but have no real issue with using a SCAT crank.
 
Don't get cheap on your crank and rods - get forged. They need to sonic the walls. You can sleeve ones that are thin or too big. That shop probably cannot do that either if they don't even have sonic checking capability.
 
The car will mainly be street driven with the occasional trip down the track. I don't plan to make more than 400 - 450 horsepower. Do you think all of this is still necessary for a street engine. I know it would be best case scenario.

I may should have posted this in the Small Block Tech forum. That was my fault as I may be misleading as to what my intentions are for the engine. I do appreciate everyone's help.
 
call mike at MRL he will hook you up....1 989-845-1547 mike should answer the phone..
 
I've got a few of the cast crank engines that are just fine. I would not use the Eagle cast unit. I've used three. None failed, but neither was perfect. Just "within factory spec". I decided not to use them a couple years ago. But, the other cast cranks can handle way beyond your power level. Thye routinely make 550+ and I know of one that has 175hp plate on top of that. You don't need forged. But, as far s "must haves" for any non factory type build - The sonic test should be done. Thick walls are stable. Stable walls last longer and make more power. Thin walls will at minimum flex and lose ring seal, at maximum crack under the higher stress from the longer stroke. The rotating assembly should be competition internally balanced. This minimizes the stress on the crank itself, makes more power, adds longevity, and runs smoother. I also align hone all my engines and run main studs. Cap flex can be an issue in factory main bolt and factory cap small blocks. Studs minimize that without adding big costs. Those are what I'd call mandatory stuff. Also, a 400hp stroker is one that is down on power...lol. Even in very mild form they will reach that easilly.
 
OK. So it is starting to come together, somewhat. I have narrowed it down to the stroker kit from Summit (because I know someone with an account that can get a good deal). The part number for the stroker kit is 1-98013. I am also going to order the Edelbrock heads. Should I get the 60779 or the 60179 heads. I see that the difference is the CC of the combustion chamber, but I am not sure that there are no other differences and want to be sure before ordering.

Thanks
 
the part number for your stroker kits shows dished pistons...ok

eddy head 60779 is close chamber head....


eddy head 60179 is an open chamber head....

you want the close chamber head.....
 
Thanks 70AAR and mopar410.

I have entered all of the info in the site provided and am looking at a compression ratio of 10.3 to 1 with the closed chamber heads and 10.1 with the open chamber heads. Would I be OK with the 10.3 cr with the closed chamber heads for a mainly street driven car?

Thanks
 
Yes, I have 10.8:1 compression on my 410 (with Eddy heads) and I run premium pump gas. I know you are safe up to 10.7 or 10.8....that is where things get a little iffy depending on cam choice and such.
 
You can get away with alittle more compression with the aluminum heads.About 1 compression point while running the same fuel.
 
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