422 dyno fail

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I would be pissed! Get a stock motor for cheap and add 100 shot and you'll have more Hp.

If it makes you feel better, my MP 380 hp in a 3480 lb duster doesnt go faster than 14s. $800 stall, tti headers and lower gears added. Did NO better than the stock reman 360, stock convertor and non posi gears. I WASTED all that money for nothing and only get 9 miles per gallon. What a piece of garbage!

???

Nope. Stock motor plus 100 shot won’t give you what we got.

He made 455 hp and 512tq. No shot. And a relatively smaller cam than in a MP 380hp crate motor.

Read the last post update and read thread. *it’s a really long thread and sorta tough to follow*
 
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I would be pissed! Get a stock motor for cheap and add 100 shot and you'll have more Hp.

If it makes you feel better, my MP 380 hp in a 3480 lb duster doesnt go faster than 14s. $800 stall, tti headers and lower gears added. Did NO better than the stock reman 360, stock convertor and non posi gears. I WASTED all that money for nothing and only get 9 miles per gallon. What a piece of garbage!
Somethings amiss there...
 
I would be pissed! Get a stock motor for cheap and add 100 shot and you'll have more Hp.

If it makes you feel better, my MP 380 hp in a 3480 lb duster doesnt go faster than 14s. $800 stall, tti headers and lower gears added. Did NO better than the stock reman 360, stock convertor and non posi gears. I WASTED all that money for nothing and only get 9 miles per gallon. What a piece of garbage!
There is nothing to be pissed about. It is what it is and I will continue to tweak things. I built this motor to race it at the most two seasons in my 71 V24 Duster before I tear it down for a full restoration. Then it will be converted to a street car and my 72 will trade places as my more dedicated drag car. The 72 is an original slant 6 car and doesn’t have much value. The V24 is far more rare and cool. If I got pissed off every time I have a set back I would have given up years ago. To me this is just the start for this motor and I’m really looking forward to running it.
 
There is nothing to be pissed about. It is what it is and I will continue to tweak things. I built this motor to race it at the most two seasons in my 71 V24 Duster before I tear it down for a full restoration. Then it will be converted to a street car and my 72 will trade places as my more dedicated drag car. The 72 is an original slant 6 car and doesn’t have much value. The V24 is far more rare and cool. If I got pissed off every time I have a set back I would have given up years ago. To me this is just the start for this motor and I’m really looking forward to running it.
You'll have a ball running that motor!!
 
I would be pissed! Get a stock motor for cheap and add 100 shot and you'll have more Hp.

If it makes you feel better, my MP 380 hp in a 3480 lb duster doesnt go faster than 14s. $800 stall, tti headers and lower gears added. Did NO better than the stock reman 360, stock convertor and non posi gears. I WASTED all that money for nothing and only get 9 miles per gallon. What a piece of garbage!
You did something wrong in a big way but the first issue is the engine was a bracket engine and not a good combo that way it was set up in the second problem you had….

Heavy heavy car! WOW! Way heavy! 3480?!?!
Holy cow!

What was that stall converter flashing at?
That “$” sign as the first digit is a mystery.
What “Low gears” were added? Ratio?
How about tire size?

I met a bunch of dudes running that 360/380 create engine, as delivered, no changes, OOTB into the car and ran it into the high 11’s. (Not that it was an easy thing to get done.)
 
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You did something wrong in a big way but the first issue is the engine was a bracket engine and not a good combo that way it was set up in the second problem you had….

Heavy heavy car! WOW! Way heavy! 3480?!?!
Holy cow!

What was that stall converter flashing at?
That “$” sign as the first digit is a mystery.
What “Low gears” were added? Ratio?
How about tire size?

I met a bunch of dudes running that 360/380 create engine, as delivered, no changes, OOTB into the car and ran it into the high 11’s. (Not that it was an easy thing to get done.)
Yeah, cars running those times were in stripped down race cars less than 3,000 lbs. It has been discussed here before .I dont want a drag car only. I'm probably going to park it, forget it and I'll start off with something entirely different. The car is a pig an not worth putting another dime in it
 

Yeah, cars running those times were in stripped down race cars less than 3,000 lbs. It has been discussed here before .I dont want a drag car only. I'm probably going to park it, forget it and I'll start off with something entirely different. The car is a pig an not worth putting another dime in it
I have personally seen a 67.baracuda in stock form run low 12' with a 360/380.
The car was even a stick.
So as already stated something is drastically wrong with your car.
Plus 3400 lbs for an abody is super heavey.
My 70 340 4spd weighed 3240
 
Yeah, cars running those times were in stripped down race cars less than 3,000 lbs. It has been discussed here before .I dont want a drag car only. I'm probably going to park it, forget it and I'll start off with something entirely different. The car is a pig an not worth putting another dime in it
So you recognize the problem of using a bracket engine designed for light cars in a super heavy A body?

Best thing you can do with that engine is give it a RPM intake and a smaller and better cam.

Still waiting on you answering my questions.
What stall/flash and rear gear/tire size?

If you don’t want to talk about it, no worries.
 
I have personally seen a 67.baracuda in stock form run low 12' with a 360/380.
The car was even a stick.
So as already stated something is drastically wrong with your car.
Plus 3400 lbs for an abody is super heavey.
My 70 340 4spd weighed 3240

Not super heavy for a 73-up in full street trim. Especially if have A/C.

I’ve digital scaled quite a few.

3250 is pretty good. Full interior, iron heads, intake, power steering, power brakes, disks, factory buckets???
 
70 340 4spd bench seat rubber instead of carpet .
All stock 3240

Weighed on digital scales?

My 68 Barracuda coupe is Auto, aluminum: heads, intake, radiator. Aftermarket aluminum spoke steering wheel. But 11.75 disks, power steering, console. 15x9 cast aluminum rims, tubular front sway bar, frame connectors, tubular rear sway bar, 1.14” torsion bars, ProCar buckets

CudaScale1_17_15Sm09.jpg
 
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Weighed on a calibrated scale at work.
A truck scale .
I can't remember if it was digital ?
I think it was but that was in the 90's
 
There is nothing to be pissed about. It is what it is and I will continue to tweak things. I built this motor to race it at the most two seasons in my 71 V24 Duster before I tear it down for a full restoration. Then it will be converted to a street car and my 72 will trade places as my more dedicated drag car. The 72 is an original slant 6 car and doesn’t have much value. The V24 is far more rare and cool. If I got pissed off every time I have a set back I would have given up years ago. To me this is just the start for this motor and I’m really looking forward to running it.
What carb is on there now? Could've used a bit more squeeze, but that's a nice punchy torque curve for the street/track duty, only a different cam away from bigger numbers. But street manners will change. Have fun with it!
 
What carb is on there now? Could've used a bit more squeeze, but that's a nice punchy torque curve for the street/track duty, only a different cam away from bigger numbers. But street manners will change. Have fun with it!

But it will run on pump gas. Always trade offs.
 
2990 before weight reduction exercises…
/6-904-7-1/4 - NO - AC, PB, PS, or carpet.
13EC5EF4-2920-4CEC-A565-231BB348A6FA.jpeg


Let the chopping begin! LOL!
100% streetable!

F1BB6FEC-13D5-4F4D-9845-2F2F6D614FF5.jpeg
 
Weighed on a calibrated scale at work.
A truck scale .
I can't remember if it was digital ?
I think it was but that was in the 90's

70-72 Dusters are light. No roll up rear 1/4 window mechanism, plastic grille and turn signal housings, not much bright work trim, no door window vents, no front/rear valences, plastic tail light housings w/o die cast bright trim
 
But it will run on pump gas. Always trade offs.
I didn't say 11:1 now, with the right cam that can be bumped up to 10.25, & still use pump fuel. The Port-o-sonic was the best single plane to race per Mopar back when, but the ports may be a tad small for 422 cubes, I'd like to see what a spacer does for him. If it were a 400 B engine, nobody would question a ~2.8sq.in. CA port runner, not sure what the max on a Offy Porto is.
 
8 3/4, 727, V-8, disc brakes, bigger radiator… the weight goes back on.

Street-able.
Sometimes…
340 aluminum everything. Less than a stock slant six?
Real close I bet.
Trans is still a 904
The 8-3/4 is heavier but I’m OK with it.
Wheels went to aluminum. Tires got bigger. Catch 22?

Oh! What one will call to much for the street someone else is letting there Mom drive it to church. What one can live with or without is there point of view or problem. How much cam is to much is up to the driver.
 
What carb is on there now? Could've used a bit more squeeze, but that's a nice punchy torque curve for the street/track duty, only a different cam away from bigger numbers. But street manners will change. Have fun with it!
It has a 850cfm quick fuel race carb. 78 primary and 86 secondary jets.
 
So you recognize the problem of using a bracket engine designed for light cars in a super heavy A body?

Best thing you can do with that engine is give it a RPM intake and a smaller and better cam.

Still waiting on you answering my questions.
What stall/flash and rear gear/tire size?

If you don’t want to talk about it, no worries.
3800 stall, 370 gear, 225 60 15. Using the recommended 750 Holley carb, put on larger eddy aluminum heads (ported polished gasket matched)
 
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