422 dyno fail

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Ceedawg said:
stock cast iron heads no porting, stock cast iron intake no porting, .455 lift cam but a lot of duration, stock TQ carb and stock type pistons. Just rebutting where someone said you HAVE to have better heads big cam and the best intake to get 500 HP. Not needed just sort out what you have. My guess, cam and distributor out of sync.
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I see your point now.

I agree, there are ways around things. And be careful with "absolute" type statements.
 
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autoxcuda said:
I think that first sheet are theoretical calcs from the seller? (CNC Motorsports?) of the Stroker Kit. Notice is says, "Installation Instructions" on top.

Maybe those calcs are based on Buyer info or generic values. Jim Ward would know details.

The piston diameter on that first sheet is 4.080 (?hard to read, but calcs to 418").

But on the piston build sheet, it's 4.100

Also weird, the Kit sheet says IC745 Icon pistons, but the piston sheet says Racetec Pistons. ???
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I figured it was not the case but was too lazy to LOL my post .
 
Jean Genibrel said:
t does if you set the cam off the TDC that may be innacurate
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No engine builder worth a damn degrees a cam by the TDC mark on the balancer. In fact that’s not “degreeing” at all. Please explain to me how you would set intake centerline with a balancer. I’ll wait. You have a very long list of credentials on your website, it’s amazing to me to read some of the comments you’re making here.
 
TT5.9mag said:
No engine builder worth a damn degrees a cam by the TDC mark on the balancer. In fact that’s not “degreeing” at all. Please explain to me how you would set intake centerline with a balancer. I’ll wait. You have a very long list of credentials on your website, it’s amazing to me to read some of the comments you’re making here.
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I have checked the intake centerline on complete motors to verify that it is or is not the cause of a poorly running engine. First verify tdc is correct on the balancer with a piston stop. Then connect a dial indicator to #1 intake pushrod. I use the .050 before and after method. Mark the balancer accordingly. Mearsure the circumference of the balancer. Divide by 360. Now you know distance in inches per degree. Measure and do the math.
 
92b said:
I have checked the intake centerline on complete motors to verify that it is or is not the cause of a poorly running engine. First verify tdc is correct on the balancer with a piston stop. Then connect a dial indicator to #1 intake pushrod. I use the .050 before and after method. Mark the balancer accordingly. Mearsure the circumference of the balancer. Divide by 360. Now you know distance in inches per degree. Measure and do the math.
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As a check, maybe. But there is no way measuring and marking a balancer is accurate enough to move a cam one or two degrees. I’ll say it again, no engine builder worth a damn uses a balancer to degree a cam. And my original statement is still my main point, a bad balancer has no effect on cam timing.
 
TT5.9mag said:
As a check, maybe. But there is no way measuring and marking a balancer is accurate enough to move a cam one or two degrees. I’ll say it again, no engine builder worth a damn uses a balancer to degree a cam. And my original statement is still my main point, a bad balancer has no effect on cam timing.
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Putting a motor together. I use a degree wheel. If I didn't have access to a degree wheel (or on a bet or dare lol) and had to use the balancer I'm pretty sure I could get it within a couple degrees. 2 degrees from recomended centerline is more likely to shift the power in the rpm range. Not loose the kind of power that this motor is supposedly down. Just so there is no misunderstanding I use a degree wheel when assembling an engine.
 
autoxcuda said:
Do YOU degree a cam using the Vibration Dampener TDC ??

Everyone I've experienced uses a degree wheel and micrometer to piston setup.
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I seem to remember a "lobe lift" at TDC measurement. Could do that with just a dial gauge. Use a Piston stop if the heads are on.
 
I like using a degree wheel along WITH a compression gauge. I've found I can zoom in on where "I" want the cam that way.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I like using a degree wheel along WITH a compression gauge. I've found I can zoom in on where "I" want the cam that way.
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How do you use the compression gauge to determine where you want the intake centerline?
 
PRH said:
I guess since iron heads can’t make any power on a stroker...... then if you combine them with the stock intake, TQ, air filter, and exhaust manifolds....... a combo like that doesn’t have a chance.

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36 degs seems like a bunch. 34 degs here and it is pretty sensitive to timing. 2 degs is a big difference. So really there are questions on how mechanically sound it was. Curious what you find out. Plus I REALLY like hearing the spec’s on that Butterscotch Duster!!!!! ! Actually he will tell you anything waiting for the rain to stop!!! Nothing super high tech in it. Very efficient and always losing weight! Like, take the trunk key off the key chain type of weight loss! Constantly yelling at me for weight!
 
[QUOTE Like, take the trunk key off the key chain type of weight loss! Constantly yelling at me for weight![/QUOTE]

Well, how about an aluminum key with a lightening hole?

aluminun A990 key.jpg
 
All keys are equipped with a lightening hole as produced, then some genius figured out you could put a ring through the hole and stack a bunch of keys together. Great idea for consolidating lightweight keys together, until you stack too many thus negating the weight saving effect. But, if you invest in a titanium ring you’ll be back on track for the initial goal of speed…and strength to boot:steering:
 
Like the redneck who had this gigantic ring of keys hanging from his belt, but the only locks he had was his pickup and double wide.
 
I think i would check your valve springs pressure and how they are installed, i normally run a bit heaver than the cam company sugest and your lift would be less than the carb by 030 with deflection, my 422 makes 750 hp aspirated and 570 ft lbs, horses for courses your small heads for a 422 and would be holding you back a bit.
 
Jim Ward said:
I had a local shop build a 422 stroker. 340 .060 over with a 4” crank. I have 9.5:1 compression because I wanted to keep the stock 2.02/1.88 J heads. I had the heads ported and they flow [email protected]. I have a non ported offy port o sonic single plane intake and hydraulic roller valve train. I will upload a pic of the cam specs. The shop called today to tell me they made a pull with a 750 Edelbrock carb and it made 355 hp and 421 ft lbs. I think it should be at least 100 more on each spec. Any thoughts on what the issue on my set up is would be appreciated.

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my stockish except for tf heads made 450 hp 430 tq something very wrong with the setup , intake and heads to small my 426 stroker not well set up made 520 560tq so something is very wrong
 
An update:

Jack with Valley did a great job giving my motor a once over and found the distributor to get junk (replaced with MSD), spark plugs gapped way too tight as they appeared to never be checked out of the box and the butterflies for the secondaries on the carb hitting the divider in the air gap intake. The motor liked 34 degrees best with 76 and 80 jets. Made 507 ft lbs and 455 hp. There was a slight oil leak out of the front of the intake so when he has it off he is going to gasket match the ports and it’s going in the car. I am a little short of my 500hp goal with the iron heads but he says with the heads milled a little to increase compression (currently he calculated 9.2:1) and a larger cam he believes 500 hp is doable.

Thank you to everyone for tue insight and suggestions on this build.
 
Jim Ward said:
An update:

Jack with Valley did a great job giving my motor a once over and found the distributor to get junk (replaced with MSD), spark plugs gapped way too tight as they appeared to never be checked out of the box and the butterflies for the secondaries on the carb hitting the divider in the air gap intake. The motor liked 34 degrees best with 76 and 80 jets. Made 507 ft lbs and 455 hp. There was a slight oil leak out of the front of the intake so when he has it off he is going to gasket match the ports and it’s going in the car. I am a little short of my 500hp goal with the iron heads but he says with the heads milled a little to increase compression (currently he calculated 9.2:1) and a larger cam he believes 500 hp is doable.

Thank you to everyone for tue insight and suggestions on this build.
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I had the same oil leaking issue with my AirGap.
The manifold sealing surface over hangs the china wall at the passanger side front corner causing a gap. Easy to miss.
 
Jim Ward said:
An update:

Jack with Valley did a great job giving my motor a once over and found the distributor to get junk (replaced with MSD), spark plugs gapped way too tight as they appeared to never be checked out of the box and the butterflies for the secondaries on the carb hitting the divider in the air gap intake. The motor liked 34 degrees best with 76 and 80 jets. Made 507 ft lbs and 455 hp. There was a slight oil leak out of the front of the intake so when he has it off he is going to gasket match the ports and it’s going in the car. I am a little short of my 500hp goal with the iron heads but he says with the heads milled a little to increase compression (currently he calculated 9.2:1) and a larger cam he believes 500 hp is doable.

Thank you to everyone for tue insight and suggestions on this build.
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Little over 1hp / cubic inch with around 240 @ .050 cam and 110 centerline cam. And over 500 ft lbs torque. Seems to be on par with others unless they have "happy dynos".

Nice care free street engine. I'd think even traction limited on street.
 
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