440 build advice

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What you have now looks awful stout for a "A" body as is. Not sure where your final compression ratio will be as far as pump gas? But keep in mind, 400/425 hp in a "A" body is as much or more then is needed for a crazy fast street car.

Even in a well thought out B body, she ain't gonna be slow.
 
Let me get a part number on the manifold. I didn't realize M1 was same as performer intake. I have a full roller in my 408 and love the sound of that sewing machine but probably just going with Hyd flat tappet on this 440. I don't want to adjust the lash once a year.

Howards has a hydrolic roller that is 245/[email protected] and .600 lift with 108 LS.
 
So which one is better? The RPM or this one or are they truly the same?

I know what you mean, but I want to be funny, so, they are different. One says Edelbrock and the other says Mopar on it.
 
First off if you have a goal in mind what this car will be used for, Street car race car etc? That will give you an idea of where to start? Torque is king on the street, plain and simple. Build something your going to be able to drive and enjoy,without being under the hood every other day. Do you want a 12, 11,10 second car? pick one and then build it accordingly.

I have a 71 Duster, i wanted a low 12 second car that i can drive on a regular basis. I Spoke to my engine builder and a few mopar guys here with street cars to get an idea of what they are putting up with on the street with thier rides. I came up with a different solution, i built a 426 B motor, 383 with a 440 crank. Engine builder an i sat down came up with a plan and stuck to it. the result was a motor that makes 515 Tq at 2900 RPM 552 peak and doesnt stop making tq until the shift point. So i say that was a pretty good plan. Its a very mild combo street friendly will work well with the 3.73 gears and 3400 stall converter.

Sit down make a plan With an engine builder who has been doing this for a long time, and dont worry about the 4 million opinions you will get off the internet, they are not the ones driving your car.
 
...if it hasn't been answered yet, I think you have a base performer intake...
 
I just did a static comp test and got 160 lbs per inch on each cylinder. What does that equate to in ratio? And what cam duration grind is going to to best for me.
 
I just did a static comp test and got 160 lbs per inch on each cylinder. What does that equate to in ratio? And what cam duration grind is going to to best for me.

Mine came out to 165 and it's 10 or 10.5:1 static. It has the MPP 242/528/112 cam. Makes 503 hp.
 
talk to jim laroy AKA: IQ52 about a set of ported performer RPM heads. 345cfm. Have him recomend a cam to work with those heads.

What he said...

I'm not so sure you have quite the static CR you mentioned based soley on what KB claims...trying to compute mechanical CR by just using the measured compression pressure is about like trying to predict weather without a barometer, as the cam timing and induction play a determinate role in that pressure. If you want the real numbers, you gotta know how far the pistons are in the hole, gasket thickness and diameter, true volume of the heads, etc...

That being said, I ran some numbers assuming a blueprint deck height, with KB 237 pistons (0.026" in the hole), 88cc heads, .040"x4.4" gasket, 6cc valve reliefs, and some other generic numbers and only came up with 9.3:1.

...not that you need a ton of compression to make a stout 440.
 
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