440 cylinder bore bevel

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mechanic190

mechanic190

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I have a 77 440 block out of a motor home and it has real deep bevels in all the holes. Anyone have an idea what to do about it? I'm workin on building it for a drag race engine and this looks like added combustion space causing a lower compression ratio? For now it gonna just get a re ring kit with moly rings being the walls are in great shape. I also have another 440 also a 77 with just a little bevel like you'd figure it have but the walls are slightly more worn. Either way I go i'd like to throw a re ring kit in one just to get her goin down the track next season. Which one should I start with?
 
Your going to need a rebore all the cylinders and new pistons,as the 72 and later pistons are low compression units and you need a to make a good 10.5-11.0:1 to be happy,mrmopartech
 
You can make it run, lots of people do. I got a friend that runs smogger shortblocks, freshens them, puts good cam/heads on and smacks them with 300+ of juice. Got a bunch of them running low 9's and high 8's at 2800-3000#. Blows the shortblock up and heads to the JY for another donor.

Here's a thread on Moparts about smogger shortblocks.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...Number=4660238&PHPSESSID=&fpart=1#Post4660238
 
440's take a hell of a beating,set up correctly.Someone I know installed a Max Wedge top end,on a re-ring 70 440.Big tunnel,Herbert solid,5500 stall converter,5.13 gears.175. nitrous plate.That thing saw 7500 on spray ,for about 6 years.Finally popped a head gasket.Bottom end,still looks good to this day.
 
So without nitrous just good solid cam tunnel ram ect should be alright with the bevel. My dads duster runs low 11s with stock bottom end but he doesn't have the deep bevel
 
we are in the times that everybody think you have to spend all your money on motors now days... what happen to all the guys from way back when that had good running cars with nothing in them...:D:D:D:D i am doing a 400 low buck just dont give a f--k as well.. its in the big block section also.. i hope it turns out ok and we will see soon...:prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer:...:supz::supz::supz::supz:
 
If by bevil you mean cylinder taper at the top of the ring travel then have it measured to determine if overboring for new pistons will remove the taper. To much taper will work the crap out of the new piston rings and cause them to loose seal and eventually just quit. At least that's my opinion.
 
Not a big deal as long as your top ring doesn't get into the bevel.

Need some low end, install the cam advanced as long as you have valve to piston clearance. If it's cut on a 106-108 LSA, install it in the 100 area. It will boost dynamic compression and help low end.
 
crackedback said:
Not a big deal as long as your top ring doesn't get into the bevel.

Need some low end, install the cam advanced as long as you have valve to piston clearance. If it's cut on a 106-108 LSA, install it in the 100 area. It will boost dynamic compression and help low end.
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x2. That bevel is usually made by hand so there's some difference block to block and sometimes bore to bore. So long as the top ring doesnt get into it, it's not a big deal. If you cc the piston in the block using the 1" down method you can calculate how much volume that space and the space over the top of the rings has and what it does to you true static compression ratio.
 
it's there to help get the rings in the bore. like was said before it can be more or less cylinder to cylinder, no big deal at the level we race at, just use the block with the less bevel if it makes you feel better and save the other as your back up.
 
bOb shingler said:
it's there to help get the rings in the bore. like was said before it can be more or less cylinder to cylinder, no big deal at the level we race at, just use the block with the less bevel if it makes you feel better and save the other as yor back up.
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Yes, I agree that .002-.003 of cylinder taper, thru the length of the bore will keep the rings working and supposedly keep from carbon build up. But I've seen a few BB's with as much as .080 in the last 2 inch of top travel. Rings aren't going to like that. IMO
 
demon seed said:
Yes, I agree that .002-.003 of cylinder taper, thru the length of the bore will keep the rings working and supposedly keep from carbon build up. But I've seen a few BB's with as much as .080 in the last 2 inch of top travel. Rings aren't going to like that. IMO
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I don't think the OP was asking about taper.

I believe he's inquiring about the bore chamfer at the top of the bore.
 
Yes I was talking about the chamfer on the top. I don't think I'll have a problem with rings since it will have factory pistons. But sounds like I'll I'll measure the bores closer then a telescoping gauge set and throw the one closer to the factory bore in the back of the pickup and go get her hot tanked
 
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