440 or built 360 71 demon

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bls

bls

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bozeman mt
Looking at going to big block in my 71 demon love the sound and power of the 440 just not sure if it ways out, cost? what suspension work, clearances ?
Any input from someone that has done this would be appreciated.

Thanks
Brad
 
Well, you aren't the first person to initiate such a project and you won't be the last. My first question to you would be "what is original engine in your car?" I would guess a 318?
I only ask this because most of us here would not consider replacing a factory 340 with anything else - or at least not a big-block conversion. Many of us here would offer an alternative - ie: stroker kit for 360 - one version gets you to 408 - and that would leave you with a much lighter weight in front end.
I am sure someone will endorse the 440 idea and provide lots of advice and tips. good luck
 
bigblockdart.com is a good source, also, just use the search function on here. I understand it's easy to just ask, but actually doing the research might benefit you too
 
hwd2 said:
Well, you aren't the first person to initiate such a project and you won't be the last. My first question to you would be "what is original engine in your car?" I would guess a 318?
I only ask this because most of us here would not consider replacing a factory 340 with anything else - or at least not a big-block conversion. Many of us here would offer an alternative - ie: stroker kit for 360 - one version gets you to 408 - and that would leave you with a much lighter weight in front end.
I am sure someone will endorse the 440 idea and provide lots of advice and tips. good luck
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dodge demon.jpg
 
You really need to define what you want out of your powerplant. There are guys that run pretty healthy and drivable 360s that can run 10s or 11s...there are also guys that just want the mystique of popping the hood at looking at a big block, even if it is stock. If you just want a stock big block, you'll still need to get the mounts, trans, exhaust, cooling system, and unless you don't mind riding on overtaxed suspension, some new t-bars might be in order...and that's just the big parts. Also need to take into consideration what ancillaries you want to run, induction, ignition, etc...unless you buy a complete running big block car and part it out for your project, you'll be acquiring a pretty big parts list.
 
Keep it smallblock you can build many a combo(I know from doing it)that'll kick the snot out of many many bigblocks:D:D
 
I am in the same boat with similar possibility .. only problem with smallblock ...No light in the distance for development of a HP block .
 
I would go with a stroked 318 if you have a 318 or an inexpensive stroked 360. That way you don't have to worry about getting all the pulleys and accessories that go with a big block. Not to mention transmission connection issues???
Finding a complete big block with all the pulleys and accessories would not be easy (at least where I live). But if your buddy has one that you can have for a good price then it would make sense. Money wise the best and least expensive route would be stroked small block>>>

treblig
 
With trick flow heads I don't see any sense in build less than a big if you after serious power. A basic 440 performance build with a trick flow top end got yourself a 600 hp engine. And if you gonna spend the money on a stroker build 500 plus cid out of a 440.

I never understood 408 strokers you spend $7000 on something that is only slightly bigger than the smallest big block (that people build) especially after a rebuild on a 383 gets it closer to 400 cid. And have terrible bore to stoke and rod ratios.

Even just slapping in a 440 crank into 383/400 gets you 431/451.
 
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hwd2 said:
Well, you aren't the first person to initiate such a project and you won't be the last. My first question to you would be "what is original engine in your car?" I would guess a 318?
I only ask this because most of us here would not consider replacing a factory 340 with anything else - or at least not a big-block conversion. Many of us here would offer an alternative - ie: stroker kit for 360 - one version gets you to 408 - and that would leave you with a much lighter weight in front end.
I am sure someone will endorse the 440 idea and provide lots of advice and tips. good luck
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Thanks, I agree I have the 71 360 in the car that dose run well, I have the built 440 sitting in the shop need anouther car I think
 
bls said:
Thanks, I agree I have the 71 360 in the car that dose run well, I have the built 440 sitting in the shop need anouther car I think
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You don't need to stroke a small block to spank a big block a properly built 340/360 will get the job done..:D:D
 
Thanks all! I agree with all its a preference, I have two 340 blocks that could be stroked expensive... the 360 built well in the car now. Its hard to leave well enough alone... If It wasn't for the fact I have the 70 440 already built I probably wouldn't be a consideration.
 
bls said:
Thanks all! I agree with all its a preference, I have two 340 blocks that could be stroked expensive... the 360 built well in the car now. Its hard to leave well enough alone... If It wasn't for the fact I have the 70 440 already built I probably wouldn't be a consideration.
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Aahh!! There you go, I said that a stroked small block would be the cheapest route if you already had a small block with all brackets/accessories UNLESS you had access to a big block from a close friend that you could get cheap. You already have a big block so you're more than halfway there.

treblig
 
bls said:
Looking at going to big block in my 71 demon love the sound and power of the 440 just not sure if it ways out, cost? what suspension work, clearances ?
Any input from someone that has done this would be appreciated.

Thanks
Brad
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What do you want?

Cost wise it takes more money to make the same HP with a SB. Build a 500hp 440. Then build a 500hp 340. Let me know the results both monetarily and how it drives on the street.

The rest is all BS. Weight, clearance etc. All BS.

Factory suspension works with nothing more than a set of conversion mounts.

Can you build a small block that will beat a big block? Yup. Can you build a big block to beat a SB? Yup. Most of the whole beating people has a lot to do with the chassis combo working and a well tuned engine. I spank a ton of big HP cars. Mine works. Not to mention. Unless you are street racing you are bracket racing. Racing a damn clock. consistency, consistency, consistency.

What do you want? build what you want. NOTHING is CHEAP!

If I already had a 318-360SB. I'd build one. I'd probably stroke it though. If I needed an engine I would without hesitation build a big block. I like street driven cars that are fast. Much easier with a big block, especially a 440.
 
dollar for dollar, a big block spanks a small block all day long on the street. other than some minor clearance issues , a big block is an easy swap.
transdapt mounts and hedman b-body headers will work.
 
Treblig said:
I would go with a stroked 318 if you have a 318 or an inexpensive stroked 360. That way you don't have to worry about getting all the pulleys and accessories that go with a big block. Not to mention transmission connection issues???
Finding a complete big block with all the pulleys and accessories would not be easy (at least where I live). But if your buddy has one that you can have for a good price then it would make sense. Money wise the best and least expensive route would be stroked small block>>

What transmission connection issues are you talking about? A 440 with a 727 trans will bolt in same spot that a 318/904 did.

treblig
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I had a 73 Dodge Dart that was a factory 318/904 car. I built a 440 for it. The car would run 10.40 in the 1/4 on 93 pump gas also that was with the wrong converter. Also would like to add that a big block in a Abody is no harder to work on than a small block in the same car
 
Well, as expected, there has been good interest in this topic - about fifty/fifty SB vs BB. Ultimately it is up to the owner/driver as to what engine will sit under the hood. Today you also have to look at the fifth digit of the serial number. Now that we know it's a factory 340 car, I would ask owner how long he expects to keep the car. Reason being if he ever sells it, the big $ are commanded by 'numbers-matching' collector cars. Putting big money into something with incorrect engine (or body color) will not net the seller top dollars. Not only that, there is very little interest out there for vehicles built (modified) with one person's preferences. Another consideration is where and how a car will be driven. Also, car shows are a great way to have people drool over your ride - and offer tons of compliments. Most who look under your hood notice the visual quality and perfection --- and not whether or not said engine is a big or small block. Us 'Moparites' notice the physical differences immediately but, like I just stated most people who browse thru car shows don't know about OR care about engine sizes.
Again, good luck with what you decide and last advice is to keep the car drivable. - lest you regret it on the street.
 
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I have often thought of going big block in my dart. But then I start looking at cost not so much for the engine but everything to make it fit. 800.00 headers, 200.00 mounts, 350.00 driveshaft, radiator,and so on. By the time I build a big block and buy all the parts to make it work I can build a strong stroker small block that fits in my car much better and weights less.
 
aaronk785 said:
I have often thought of going big block in my dart. But then I start looking at cost not so much for the engine but everything to make it fit. 800.00 headers, 200.00 mounts, 350.00 driveshaft, radiator,and so on. By the time I build a big block and buy all the parts to make it work I can build a strong stroker small block that fits in my car much better and weights less.
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Damn I have been out of the game to long. Lol when I built my 73 dart I think the TTI headers cost me $690 shipped and the conversion engine mounts was around $140. I was going from a 904 to a 727 so I had to have a drive shaft anyway. I just had a 7290 ujoint size drive shaft from a B-body shortened for the dart. Also a aluminum headed 440 doesn't weigh much more than a small block. But if you think the small block fits your needs better. Then that's cool. Got any pics of your car? I used to own a 1973 dart sport that I put a 360 in.
I hope soon to start working on my 72 dart. I want to install a. 360 magnum motor and trans out of a 98 dodge truck and even run it with the factory fuel injection
 
Had a couple big block abodies. Man there is just nothing like a big block abody. So much fun. I actually thought it was easier to work on then a small block too. Dist up front is easier to mess with. It also opens up room to get to the rear of the engine. That big block oil filter is so much easier to get to. Plugs were never an issue. They still handle nicely with larger torsion bars.

Starting from scratch the price probably isn't too much different.
 
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