440 or built 360 71 demon

-
mopar65 I don't have any pics and even if I did I'm computer stupid so I couldn't post them anyway. I would like to get my dart by my name. My dart is a 68. It came with a 318 so the 340 was an easy swap just bought some 150.00 dollar headers and exhaust. I have a pump gas 440 that ran 10.90s in a 3500 lb. challenger so that would be sweet to have in the dart. Both engines are back yard builds. Have less than 2000.00 in each engine. 340 runs 12.90s with 3.55s The 440 would put me in the 11s quite easy even with the gears if I could hook. I figure the 440 has atleast 150 more hp. The thing about the 440 is it has 11 years of bracket racing on it so I would have to freshen it up. Not a real good comparision. 340 was built to be a street motor and 440 a bracket motor. But I don't think I could match the 440 power without aluminum heads and much lower gears or a stroker. Like I said its the other things that keep me from doing it.
 
It sounds like you are realistic OP...... If you take a healthy small block and dupe a big block in the same fashion the motor with the Front Distributor will make more power. What you do with that power and how you make it all work is a whole different story.....

I would have to be willing to make safety updates to a car if I did a Big Block as I would be looking for something low 11 or 10's. A small block would probably be my preference at this point in a street car and if I want to put down some strong numbers at the track I would make sure my setup included the ability for a good size NOS hit. But to each his own.....

JW
 
Yes who ever has the most power and better setup will win no matter /6 to 572 hemi. But mod for mod the larger engine will come out on top.

Not everyone needs a big block even though it couldn't hurt. If your looking for 450 hp or less 340/360 is a fine choice. If looking for more or more streetable engine a 408 could be a good choice but to me might as well go big block or at least don't discourage others.

If some company came out with a tall deck version of the small block that could handle 700 plus hp and able to be bore out to over 4.3" except 4.25" inch stroke and able to be stroked to 496 cid and the block only weight 60 pounds more for a few hundred dollars people would be tripping over themselves to get one.

And we have millions of them and people only see the 383 as a paper weight. Not only that but we have 2 slightly better ones the 400 which is good to 500 cid and 440 good to 540 cid.
 
Last edited:
hwd2 said:
Today you also have to look at the fifth digit of the serial number. Now that we know it's a factory 340 car, I would ask owner how long he expects to keep the car. Reason being if he ever sells it, the big $ are commanded by 'numbers-matching' collector cars. Putting big money into something with incorrect engine (or body color) will not net the seller top dollars. Not only that, there is very little interest out there for vehicles built (modified) with one person's preferences.


Another consideration is where and how a car will be driven.
last advice is to keep the car drivable. - lest you regret it on the street.
Click to expand...

These cars aren't worth much no matter how you slice it. There are a FEW that are worth more than the rest, primarily factory big block cars. No matter which way you slice it you'll more than likely have more in it than it will ever sell for if you build it yourself.


I'd bet you any day of the week a show winning big block dart will pull the same money as a factory original 340 car. I've seen it and experienced it first hand.


aaronk785 said:
I have often thought of going big block in my dart. But then I start looking at cost not so much for the engine but everything to make it fit. 800.00 headers, 200.00 mounts, 350.00 driveshaft, radiator,and so on. By the time I build a big block and buy all the parts to make it work I can build a strong stroker small block that fits in my car much better and weights less.
Click to expand...

Might want to check the cost of small block headers vs. big block. 793$ vs. 923$

Motor mounts are 159$ big block conversion vs. 149$ for SB replacement

You need a new guy to shorten your driveshafts. Try 100$.

My small block radiator cools my 440.
 
273 said:
people only see the 383 as a paper weight. .
Click to expand...

I know, and that is just a shame. The 383 is a real performer. 340 vs 383 = the 383 being 43 cubes bigger, a little by stroke and a lot by bore. Valves are bigger, head flow, etc etc.
Just throw headers on a complete stock 383 commando and you are pushing close to 370 horsepower.
 
fishmens67 said:
dollar for dollar, a big block spanks a small block all day long on the street. other than some minor clearance issues , a big block is an easy swap.
transdapt mounts and hedman b-body headers will work.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I have most of the parts around outer than the headers to fit with out cutting up fender well and still get to the starter so far found TTI 'pricey 'that supposedly fits well with auto trans but have to be modified for manual due to the z bar.
So you have used the headmens?
 
bls said:
Thanks, I have most of the parts around outer than the headers to fit with out cutting up fender well and still get to the starter so far found TTI 'pricey 'that supposedly fits well with auto trans but have to be modified for manual due to the z bar.
So you have used the headmens?
Click to expand...

Have you looked into schumachers?

Mad dog?

Pro parts/Mccandles?
 
I don't think the hedman headers will work with standard trans. we have used the b-body hedmans on 383 and 400 dart and 67 barracuda with manual steering and auto trans. just a few dings. We have used the hedmans since the late 70's. just now switching to TTI, only because I can.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top