440 source ductile adjustable rocker arms.
- Thread starter derek fletcher
- Start date
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Well good luck with it! My sister had that a while back and said it was the best thing she ever did! We'll be prayin for you.
It's called a stock Super Commando 440. lol
Yes, already legally blind in one eye and clogged duct and Glaucoma in the other eye.
A bit more on cast rockers.
Jig up a couple of old 273 rockers and measure the lifts
if you have time.
Even the Mopar Perf. Iron Small Block rocker often varied .010 to .020 at 450 lift.
Back then one of my sponsors let me go thru his whole stock of MP rockers
to find 16 within .010 varience out of all of them. Then they went off to Rocker Arm Engineering
in No. Calif. to have ratio corrected/ geometry rscorrected/offset bushed to get to 1.5 ratio within
.001. between them all. With his shafts and hardware about a $750.00 deal ( a lot in the 1990s)
Only the Isky Big Blocks every checked correctly = Not the Sig Erson or Mopar ever real close to 1.5.
Finally about 10 years ago, NHRA in its wisdom let us run Roller Rockers. Not any help for Mopars but a
boom for GM with their stamped stud Junk. Even the expensive Roller Rockers, I would not trust in a street car
that you expect to run for years and many miles trouble free.
We put T and D and the top of the line Harlan Sharps (Both a Fortune) on our Big Block Stockers and did not
find ANYTHING over the Isky Iron Rockers = Period not a Hundred we could find!
If we had run out of the box Small block Cast Rockers with their random observed variance on our stockers = We
would probably not have 1/2 of our 40+ NHRA National Event Wallys on our shop shelves.
Just my .02 worth = For Free!
As you have probably guessed, we have spent well over $1,000,000++ in the last 50 years on racing Stock and
Superstock! AND I would do it again without Hesitation.
Jig up a couple of old 273 rockers and measure the lifts
if you have time.
Even the Mopar Perf. Iron Small Block rocker often varied .010 to .020 at 450 lift.
Back then one of my sponsors let me go thru his whole stock of MP rockers
to find 16 within .010 varience out of all of them. Then they went off to Rocker Arm Engineering
in No. Calif. to have ratio corrected/ geometry rscorrected/offset bushed to get to 1.5 ratio within
.001. between them all. With his shafts and hardware about a $750.00 deal ( a lot in the 1990s)
Only the Isky Big Blocks every checked correctly = Not the Sig Erson or Mopar ever real close to 1.5.
Finally about 10 years ago, NHRA in its wisdom let us run Roller Rockers. Not any help for Mopars but a
boom for GM with their stamped stud Junk. Even the expensive Roller Rockers, I would not trust in a street car
that you expect to run for years and many miles trouble free.
We put T and D and the top of the line Harlan Sharps (Both a Fortune) on our Big Block Stockers and did not
find ANYTHING over the Isky Iron Rockers = Period not a Hundred we could find!
If we had run out of the box Small block Cast Rockers with their random observed variance on our stockers = We
would probably not have 1/2 of our 40+ NHRA National Event Wallys on our shop shelves.
Just my .02 worth = For Free!
As you have probably guessed, we have spent well over $1,000,000++ in the last 50 years on racing Stock and
Superstock! AND I would do it again without Hesitation.
Last edited:
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Yep. I had a .590 purple shaft in a 440 with some maxwedge iron rockers on it. After lash, valves were actually moving around .525. 1.45 ratio, maybe. Maybe less than that.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Broke an adjuster, roller lifter kicked out, the other one of the pair went sideways, wrecked a billet solid roller cam. Had the cam reground. Gained duration, lost .100 lift, car slower by 1/2 second.
derek fletcher
Member
Hello,
I would like to thank everyone's input on this subject.
I agree with the consensus the isky's are the best choice.
And am grateful that John offered them to me for sale.
Am the proud owner of a set.
Now my next dilemma will be my first break-in on a solid tappet cam?
Any suggestions?
And Thanks, again
Derek Fletcher
I would like to thank everyone's input on this subject.
I agree with the consensus the isky's are the best choice.
And am grateful that John offered them to me for sale.
Am the proud owner of a set.
Now my next dilemma will be my first break-in on a solid tappet cam?
Any suggestions?
And Thanks, again
Derek Fletcher
Remove and clean camshaft.
Put on new break in lube
Check to make sure solids
Lash about 16 and 18
or whatever the manufacturer of cam suggests
Mark top edge of all lifters (Whiteout or grease pen or whatever)
Spin engine over without starting several times for 15 seconds.
Be sure lifters are rotating on cam!
Run the engine for about 10 minutes at a time and let cool down completely (Seating Rings)
Be sure temp does not go over 150 (Heat guns are cheap at (Harbor Freight)
Vary RPM from 2000 to 3000 (If Auto put a small load on engine against converter.
Pull Valve Covers each cycle and be sure lifters are still rotating.
Everyone has their own routine on new engine breaking in = There are a thousand
ways to skin a cat this is simply mine.
This is mine =It is a pain but the new cam cores and lifters are really
poor materials.
My .02 = For Free
Your mileage may vary
Put on new break in lube
Check to make sure solids
Lash about 16 and 18
or whatever the manufacturer of cam suggests
Mark top edge of all lifters (Whiteout or grease pen or whatever)
Spin engine over without starting several times for 15 seconds.
Be sure lifters are rotating on cam!
Run the engine for about 10 minutes at a time and let cool down completely (Seating Rings)
Be sure temp does not go over 150 (Heat guns are cheap at (Harbor Freight)
Vary RPM from 2000 to 3000 (If Auto put a small load on engine against converter.
Pull Valve Covers each cycle and be sure lifters are still rotating.
Everyone has their own routine on new engine breaking in = There are a thousand
ways to skin a cat this is simply mine.
This is mine =It is a pain but the new cam cores and lifters are really
poor materials.
My .02 = For Free
Your mileage may vary
Last edited:
A couple more thoughts:
Use a quality Break In Oil specifically for that
purpose.
Do not run Synthetic Oil for first couple oil changes particularly
on a new engine that has been sitting for a while.
Use a quality Break In Oil specifically for that
purpose.
Do not run Synthetic Oil for first couple oil changes particularly
on a new engine that has been sitting for a while.
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