440 swap from small block

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moodman1962

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Just wondering if it a real pain in the *** to change from small block to big block?
I have a 1974 Duster and wanted a run down on parts needed to do the job? I want to run stock exhaust manifolds ( what year and what car do i need them from)?
Oil pan
motor mounts
and anything else you can think of? do all 727 tranny have the same length will it fit in the same location as the small block tranny?
As you can tell I need info, any help would be great. If any of you have the parts kickin around to do the job let me know?
 
The 727 is 4 inches longer than the 904.
 

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the hardest part of having a bbm in an abody is the exhaust. I strongly suggest go with manifolds to start you out and get you going until you save up money to go with headers. also im not sure of a 74, but i have a 70 dart and make sure you use a 187 or 699 oil pan, you get the most clearance away from the steering linkage and what not.
also chek out bigblock dart .com for more info. and make sure you do a lot of homework first.
http://www.engine-swaps.com /Pages/ProductsType/OilPanSchematics.html
 
if you go with a stock style oil pan make sure you either install baffels or get one with because when you stand on it the oil will rush away from the pick up and starve the engine causing premature bearing failure, i learned this from expensive experience. or install a deep sump pan and modify it for steering clearance. schumacher makes a easy install kit headers block hugger type to keep pipes under car and mounts for any k member type all at a good price. good luck have fun keep the shiny side up and if both are shiny just pull the wheels and show it lol.
 
Excellent choice for an upgrade. Easy to do. The 400 - 440 bolt throughmotor mounts are what you need. The ordinary midsump oil pan is the one you want. HP pan (baffled) if you can find it, buy a windage tray from Mopar Performance for an extra 10rwhp and better oil control. I recommend cutting the sump and adding 2" and a skid plate to it as well as a 2" oil suction tube extention. HP oil pressure oil pump spring at the very least unless you add the 6 qt (extended) oil pan - then use a HVHP oil pump. The exhaust mandifolds dump the exhaust right near the middle of the steering shaft. Spaulding dodge cut the GTX exhaust manifold and welded a square extention into it to move the manifold outlet past the steering shaft before the exhuast pipe bolted to the flange.

I tried the Hooker headers (fenderwells) but they hang too low and the tires touch unless you compromise stopping by using skinny front tires. I recommend the TTI/CAAP chasis headers as they sound better, look nicer and you don't need to chop you inner fenderwells. If you chop your inner fenderwells you need to add front support bars to reagain the strength you lost.

The wiring is simple to change. The automatic is nothing to swap. The Z body 4 speeds use a special tail shaft so that the shifter can mount in the proper place behind the trans Xmember.



Doing that swap, I suggest adding aluminium rad, alum waterpump and aluminium intake manifold so the BB weighs about the same as the small block did. That will keep the handling the same.

I have my Duster and a few hundred pics of all my upgrades (tubs, battery, paint,sub frame connectors, stereo, Prostock springs, front spring hangers, Big bolt patterned 8 3/4" rear end, large driveshaft, heater, stereo, sub, peeled, etc)



Ted
 
Ted, do you have your build pictures online somewhere? I'm doing research on a 400BB into a 71 Duster and your pictures would help immensely, along with any type of build log you might have.

Thanks,
Andy
 
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