440 swap in 66 cuda

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mopardude440

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Trying to swap in a 440 in my 66 cuda where can I buy the right k frame to make this work or can I use custom engine mounts?
 
www.engine-swaps.com

'63-66 A-Body Mopar Big Block Kit

Here's a swap for the truly adventurous; a Big Block Swap for your '63-66 Dodge or Plymouth A-Body! High performance, high strength polyurethane spool mounts fit in place of your Slant 6 or Small Block V8 biscuit mounts. Bolt-on, no cutting or welding required. Kit includes powdercoated...
www.engine-swaps.com

Schumacher creative services should have what you need
 
i made fenderwell headers for my dart, lol.
neil.
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Yeah back in the early 70s that was the only way to go. Neither of us had the skills for welding up headers, and I wasn't interested in the car, so it languished in the back-40, until a scrapper came and took it. The car was practically mint. I shouldda slammed a SBM in it, but I had just got married, and already had a 69 Barracuda. ... 4 years newer and more mintier
 
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mopardude440 said:
Trying to swap in a 440 in my 66 cuda where can I buy the right k frame to make this work or can I use custom engine mounts?
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K-Frame is the same for the six and 8 cyl. since those cars nover came with a big block the answer is no, there is not big block k-frame for them.. when i did mine i used c-body engine brackets with custom pieces going from there and bolting to the k-frame.. thise was before swap mounts were out for them. these are the swap mounts for those cars.. '63-66 A-Body Mopar Big Block Kit

exhaust was the biggest expense when i did mine, had custom headers made for it.. to me it was senseless to stick a 440 in th ecar only to run manifolds..

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mopardude440 said:
Where did u make the notch at?
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the rear of the k member. i sat the 727 trans on the original trans crossmember and mount from the original /6 trans. that set the front to back position or the motor. then it was a case of lowering the motor in without a flexplate to see how much needed cutting from the 'k' and lowering again. from memory the 3rd cut was enough which just left the job of boxing in the 'k' for strength. i didn't have adapter mounts, i made my own. i found the wide fenderwell headers moved too much so i swapped the rubber mounts for solid ones, again i made them. i didn't notice much if any increase in vibration with the solid mounts either.
neil.
 
at a minimum, tie the front and rear-- this is the most common, search "subframe connectors". you can buy or build them.

from there it depends on what your plans are with the car. just a cruiser and bruiser, i don't know i'd go much further than that. if competition, i'd be rethinking from the ground up.

either way, i'd reinforce the K member for sure.
 
junkyardhero said:
at a minimum, tie the front and rear-- this is the most common, search "subframe connectors". you can buy or build them.

from there it depends on what your plans are with the car. just a cruiser and bruiser, i don't know i'd go much further than that. if competition, i'd be rethinking from the ground up.

either way, i'd reinforce the K member for sure.
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Ok and with power brake or manual brake with disc brakes? I hear some people having to go back to manual for some reason something vacuum related I believe
 
me no like power brakes. manual gets my vote everytime.

also, i honestly don't know if there'd be room for a power booster with a 440. mayyyybbbeee a 383/400 low deck, but me thinks that the heater blower motor gets adios'd along with the idea of power brakes with the chonk block taking up all the available real estate.
 
mopardude440 said:
Ok are sub frame connections necessary or cud I go without?
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Necessary? Maybe not... but you WILL want them.
If you are serious about this swap, start shopping for fenderwell headers now. I would also look at the Schumacher tri-y's, they just might work, and would be better than any manifolds that could be made to fit
And if it was my project?..... Andy F's elephant ear motor plate would be my first purchase. I can be rubber mounted if necessary. I wouldn't bother. That just might give you enough room for under chassis headers or tri-y's.
 
33IMP said:
Necessary? Maybe not... but you WILL want them.
If you are serious about this swap, start shopping for fenderwell headers now. I would also look at the Schumacher tri-y's, they just might work, and would be better than any manifolds that could be made to fit
And if it was my project?..... Andy F's elephant ear motor plate would be my first purchase. I can be rubber mounted if necessary. I wouldn't bother. That just might give you enough room for under chassis headers or tri-y's.
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totally agree. at this stage of the game, if i was messing around with something like that i'd just straight to a motor plate/elephant ears.

if i was throwing stealth to the wind and didn't care about it coming off the least bit stock, i'd 100% bite the bullet and go with a hemi denny front set up, or at least t-bar delete and motor plate it. then there'd be all kinds of room for activities. that would allow for some reinterpretation of the fenderwells at least, and open up a few choices for headers.

like any big bock swap, after getting by making everything fit the biggest issue (and cost) is exhaust.
 
Anybody that could possibly consider a 440 swap into a 66 Barracuda as any kind of "stock", would have to be a Honda guy. Even chevy fans aren't that lame.
 
A 187 C body pan and appropriate pickup will fit.
 
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