440 tunnel ram

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This is as as bad as it gets short of stripping gears and skipping teeth.
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Yep. My old original rr 383 ran super strong ‘till the cam lost a lobe. When I changed cam I found a super loose chain and plenty of plastic teeth in the oil pickup screen.
 
Finally got round to stripping heads off.

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I cant see anything to concerning. Im guessing my pistons are low compression ones that that the 2 cut out are for.

Im looking at fitting a trickflow top end kit, trick flow hydrolic roller lifters, trick flow double roller bullet timing chain and some mahle flat pistons. Then after this will install high torque converter.
 
I didn't read this whole thread, but I will throw in my two cents.

Before you buy anything else, sell all 4 carbs and buy something worth while. IMHO, any vacuum secondary carb is nothing more than a boat anchor. Even less useful on a TR. I know all the book writers and Internet parrots will tell you for a street TR the VS carb is all that and then some. 99% of those clowns have never used a TR and the rest have never done it on the street.

And I know, for a fact, if you call Holley, they'd tell you the VS carbs are perfect. Holley is retarded. They can't even produce tech articles teaching the correct way to tune the carb's they make. Sad sack idiots.

So, I'm going to ASSume the VS carbs are the garden variety 1850 model. They were never designed for anything other than a lowly OE replacement carb. They are designed and calibrated for a TR and making them so you can calibrate them is not worth the effort. They are useless IMO.

Now, we can discuss the vaunted and much loved 4224 660 center squirter carb.

Originally designed as a drag race TR carb, it is still not easily tuned. Just like its cousin, the 1850 it isn't worth making it capable of making it tune-able.

Another issue is what all the crab gurus love to do. From my testing, it's clear these knaves have never ever actually tested what they do. In fact, in 1983 I saw this for the first time and I asked the car owner why it was done. He tried to skate answering my question. Finally he gave up and admitted he had no idea why it was done. It was what his "carb guru" told him was best. It's not. It's stupid.

The 4224 comes with almost (I say almost because once again, Holley misses the mark) 1:1 throttle linkage. One of the few things they got right, but as I said, the butter fingered that too. Because it's not quite 1:1 and it makes anything around idle and transition almost impossible to tune. Since it was a drag carb, Holley didn't care. It was good enough.

So instead of these carb tuners doing the correct thing, which is weld up the linkage and make it a true 1:1, they carve the hell out of it, and delay the secondary opening until the very last bit of throttle opening.

And you may say, why is that bad yellow rose? And I say if you are checking O2 and paying attention, easily done on a dyno, you'd see the engine go dead rich, and by dead rich I mean super fat pig rich until shortly after the secondaries open.

Think about it. If you delay the secondaries, you are still getting a pump shot the whole time you are opening the throttle! You have doubled the pump shot to the primaries because the secondaries are sitting there, waiting to open, and the accelerator pump is giving the primaries 100% more fuel. Like I said, ignorant. When you STOP and look at what they did, even a grapefruit can see how idiotic it is. And yet, carb ding dongs still do it.

So that's another failures of the 4224. It's maybe, marginally better than an 1850, but not much. You'll need to screw with the idle circuit until you are blue in the face. They are so small that they will go dead rich at WOT and then you have to open up the high speed air bleed, which delays the booster a bit, and screws up the transition. This is a big deal on a street driver. On top of that, neither of those 1960's engineered failures has 4 corner idle adjustment. Retarded trying to get a TR to idle like it should and makes it harder to tune in transition.

That's just a tumbnail of what's wrong with the carbs you have.

Too small for anything but a lawn mower.
Too hard to tune.
VS that never open (forgot to mention that one).
Jacked up throttle linkage on the 4224.
Not worth making tune-able.
Too small for anything but a lawn mower (worth mentioning twice).

So sell those antique 4224's to a guy doing a period resto or something and sell the 1850's to some guy who reads magazines and believes everything Holley and the carb gurus say is true.

You can buy two 750 Profom carbs pretty cheap. They are fully adjustable, have mechanical secondaries and also have the big float bowls which is another issues with your antique carbs.

Then you can tune them, they will make power. You'll have more bottom end that a single 4 and actually work and make power.

There is a draw back (see...all those college writing classes I took and aced are paying dividends nicely now! You always make your case in the negative first, tell the positives of your case next, and then lastly, you tell the weaknesses of your arguement. My HS and college counselors wanted me to be a lawyer. I can't be that phony.

Ok, so there are two things going do your carbs, and two things against what I'm saying to do.

The two sets of carbs you have are what Holley called 4160 models. They are short in length. They don't usually have a secondary metering block, but instead use a metering plate. The only way to tune the secondaries is to change the whole plate, and getting plates to change just what you want and nothing else is hard to do. So you have to modify the plates. PITA. But it does make the short. You can mount them in line, and a simple minded dullard can fabricate throttle linkage.

The carbs I think you should use is the model number 4150. It has the big float bowls and secondary metering blocks. So if you only need to make a jet change, you can make that and change nothing else. Or you can just make a idle feed restrictor change and nothing else. That's what I mean when I say tune-able.

The bad thing is they are long. You can't mount them in line. They are too long. They need to be mounted sideways. That also makes linkage more complicated. But not that hard. It's just a bit more work to get it correct, a bit more complicated and a bit more expensive. What you get for that stuff is a much better carb. You can tune them. And they will make power, and drive better than and cleaner than any single 4.

Again, just my humble .02. Worth exactly what you paid for it.
 
yellow rose said:
I didn't read this whole thread, but I will throw in my two cents.

Before you buy anything else, sell all 4 carbs and buy something worth while. IMHO, any vacuum secondary carb is nothing more than a boat anchor. Even less useful on a TR. I know all the book writers and Internet parrots will tell you for a street TR the VS carb is all that and then some. 99% of those clowns have never used a TR and the rest have never done it on the street.

And I know, for a fact, if you call Holley, they'd tell you the VS carbs are perfect. Holley is retarded. They can't even produce tech articles teaching the correct way to tune the carb's they make. Sad sack idiots.

So, I'm going to ASSume the VS carbs are the garden variety 1850 model. They were never designed for anything other than a lowly OE replacement carb. They are designed and calibrated for a TR and making them so you can calibrate them is not worth the effort. They are useless IMO.

Now, we can discuss the vaunted and much loved 4224 660 center squirter carb.

Originally designed as a drag race TR carb, it is still not easily tuned. Just like its cousin, the 1850 it isn't worth making it capable of making it tune-able.

Another issue is what all the crab gurus love to do. From my testing, it's clear these knaves have never ever actually tested what they do. In fact, in 1983 I saw this for the first time and I asked the car owner why it was done. He tried to skate answering my question. Finally he gave up and admitted he had no idea why it was done. It was what his "carb guru" told him was best. It's not. It's stupid.

The 4224 comes with almost (I say almost because once again, Holley misses the mark) 1:1 throttle linkage. One of the few things they got right, but as I said, the butter fingered that too. Because it's not quite 1:1 and it makes anything around idle and transition almost impossible to tune. Since it was a drag carb, Holley didn't care. It was good enough.

So instead of these carb tuners doing the correct thing, which is weld up the linkage and make it a true 1:1, they carve the hell out of it, and delay the secondary opening until the very last bit of throttle opening.

And you may say, why is that bad yellow rose? And I say if you are checking O2 and paying attention, easily done on a dyno, you'd see the engine go dead rich, and by dead rich I mean super fat pig rich until shortly after the secondaries open.

Think about it. If you delay the secondaries, you are still getting a pump shot the whole time you are opening the throttle! You have doubled the pump shot to the primaries because the secondaries are sitting there, waiting to open, and the accelerator pump is giving the primaries 100% more fuel. Like I said, ignorant. When you STOP and look at what they did, even a grapefruit can see how idiotic it is. And yet, carb ding dongs still do it.

So that's another failures of the 4224. It's maybe, marginally better than an 1850, but not much. You'll need to screw with the idle circuit until you are blue in the face. They are so small that they will go dead rich at WOT and then you have to open up the high speed air bleed, which delays the booster a bit, and screws up the transition. This is a big deal on a street driver. On top of that, neither of those 1960's engineered failures has 4 corner idle adjustment. Retarded trying to get a TR to idle like it should and makes it harder to tune in transition.

That's just a tumbnail of what's wrong with the carbs you have.

Too small for anything but a lawn mower.
Too hard to tune.
VS that never open (forgot to mention that one).
Jacked up throttle linkage on the 4224.
Not worth making tune-able.
Too small for anything but a lawn mower (worth mentioning twice).

So sell those antique 4224's to a guy doing a period resto or something and sell the 1850's to some guy who reads magazines and believes everything Holley and the carb gurus say is true.

You can buy two 750 Profom carbs pretty cheap. They are fully adjustable, have mechanical secondaries and also have the big float bowls which is another issues with your antique carbs.

Then you can tune them, they will make power. You'll have more bottom end that a single 4 and actually work and make power.

There is a draw back (see...all those college writing classes I took and aced are paying dividends nicely now! You always make your case in the negative first, tell the positives of your case next, and then lastly, you tell the weaknesses of your arguement. My HS and college counselors wanted me to be a lawyer. I can't be that phony.

Ok, so there are two things going do your carbs, and two things against what I'm saying to do.

The two sets of carbs you have are what Holley called 4160 models. They are short in length. They don't usually have a secondary metering block, but instead use a metering plate. The only way to tune the secondaries is to change the whole plate, and getting plates to change just what you want and nothing else is hard to do. So you have to modify the plates. PITA. But it does make the short. You can mount them in line, and a simple minded dullard can fabricate throttle linkage.

The carbs I think you should use is the model number 4150. It has the big float bowls and secondary metering blocks. So if you only need to make a jet change, you can make that and change nothing else. Or you can just make a idle feed restrictor change and nothing else. That's what I mean when I say tune-able.

The bad thing is they are long. You can't mount them in line. They are too long. They need to be mounted sideways. That also makes linkage more complicated. But not that hard. It's just a bit more work to get it correct, a bit more complicated and a bit more expensive. What you get for that stuff is a much better carb. You can tune them. And they will make power, and drive better than and cleaner than any single 4.

Again, just my humble .02. Worth exactly what you paid for it.
Click to expand...


Thank you yellow rose to be honist im at the point of throwing TR in the bin and using a single trick flow intake with a larger carb (around 950 cfm which are are all machanical secondaries as dont think can get vc that large) will stick with holley as have alot of rebuild parts and jets.

Are holley parts compatiable with any other carbs??
 
Ww58_bandit said:
Thank you yellow rose to be honist im at the point of throwing TR in the bin and using a single trick flow intake with a larger carb (around 950 cfm which are are all machanical secondaries as dont think can get vc that large) will stick with holley as have alot of rebuild parts and jets.

Are holley parts compatiable with any other carbs??
Click to expand...


All Holley parts will fit all Holley clones. Holley fought competition for decades because they produced straight crap. It took Barry Grant a several law suits to break that monopoly.

Don't give up on the TR. when it's right, it will blow away any single 4 everywhere in the RPM range.

BTDT.
 
yellow rose said:
All Holley parts will fit all Holley clones. Holley fought competition for decades because they produced straight crap. It took Barry Grant a several law suits to break that monopoly.

Don't give up on the TR. when it's right, it will blow away any single 4 everywhere in the RPM range.

BTDT.
Click to expand...
I wont giving up on it as not easy beat but going to run a single as get limited track time and but tr on as and when i fell like it and track time allows
 
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