#4448308 heads have any potential?

[moper]

IMO, $600 isnt enough to get them "right". It is enough to make them "better". So do what the budget allows, but understand what the consequences of that are. As I said, for me, I don't want to touch heads again but this is just my line of thinking. Because just the "take off and clean" at a later point is the same cost of the upgrades now. If you want to run a modern cam, most require dual springs (Lunati Voo Doos all have a dual assembly recommended). So springs and retainers have to be bought anyway... The costs between single and dual isnt much compared to buying them twice and the retainers are the same money. But to disassemble and have them cut, then buy a second set of springs, then reassembled, will cost more than just doing it straight away. In terms of valve size... Sinking a valve is the worst you can do. And to run a used valve on a freshly cut seat sinks it. No other way to do it. Then you're stuck with even larger chambers and further reduced flow/power. Which is why I just account for new valves. All these parts work intimately together. So by not doing it the first time, you end up paying double for the result you could have had for less. You could buy stock type valves for less money. but that's about the only cost savings I see being realized. Attached is a few pics of a set of 308s on a 422 that makes about 470hp with a hydraulic .518 lift 242°@.050 cam. These heads have a little porting but not much, and they were $1400 after porting, ready to bolt on. $1120 w/o port work.

 

[rumblefish360]

And in Mopers post is what I normally suggest due to exactly what he said. In general, the price of the work (W/bowl porting) is very well worth it and provides about the best bang for the buck.

But, someone is allways looking for a cheaper way out, which is possible, but probably not worth the expense in the long run.

Do it right and do it once or pay twice for what should have been done the first time.

 

[Nick M.]

Sadly 91 octane is all we can get short of buying race fuel=$$$... i do have a station nearby that sells E85 but... whole new set of issues. So heads have been checked they do need guides and a valve job 2 exhaust valves were junk, I'll have to check my cam card i don't remember what springs comp recommends for my cam..

 

[moparmat2000]

Higher compression helps push the exhaust out. So yes on the street with lower compression the exhaust would flow much better. But what about race motors with 14 to 1 compression? This is where the older heads ported right can outperform the 308 heads with those too large pushrod holes that blocks the flow.

Remember the bigger the cam and rpms the more a large intake port helps. The 308 intake ports are restricted more than the older heads.

What about pressing brass tubes into the pushrod holes , then grinding the bump out or pinch in the runners from the casting until you get to the brass. That would open them up.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

I have a pair of these heads complete, they have been cleaned and checked and are crack free... just wondering if they are worth rebuilding. I am on a tight budget so i will most likely be stuck with a stock type cast iron head, they will be going on a fresh 0.030 360 with kb107's

Waking the dead eh?

 

[moparmat2000]

Yup

 

[furrystump]

Before thinking about going to a bigger valve or sinking money in a cast iron head. I would stop and save up more $ and buy an aluminum head. I know this sucks, waiting and being patient, but you will be so far ahead if you do. It will also give you room to grow if your performance goals increase (as they usually do) Buy once, cry once. I’m forced to run cast iron, but if I wasn’t, I wouldn’t spend a dime on a cast iron head. I wouldn’t get rid of them, but I would let some one else sink money into them at a later date.