470 BB race motor. Oiling mods?

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SGBARRACUDA

SGBARRACUDA

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I'm building a 470 Bracket/NSS 68 Dart. Short block is a MM rotating assembly with 3.90 stroke eagle crank, Eagle I beam rods, Wiesco flat tops @ zero deck. The Max Wedge Stage VI heads were ported and built by Jim Laroy. I plan on running a Hughes Solid cam HUG HTL 7276 BS3. here are the specs.


Camshaft Technical Details

Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5 .620"
.629"

Intake Valve Lift 1.6
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6 .661"
.671"

Intake Duration at .050"
Exhaust Duration at .050" 272°
276°

Lobe Separation Angle 108

Intake Opening at .050"
Exhaust Opening at .050" 31° BTC
69° BBC

Intake Closing at .050"
Exhaust Closing at .050" 61° ABC
27° ATC

Min. Suggested Cylinder PSI 225

Sweet Spot RPM 3300 - 7200
I'm going to use a single external Milodon oil pump set up.
With a max RPM of 6800-7000. My question is do I need to perform any of the oiling mods to the block. IE like restricting the oil to the lifters or restricting the oil to the rockers, etc .I figured now is the time to address these issues.
 
Well I ran a dual line set up in my Super Gas 67 Barracuda. I never did like the amount of time it took to prime after I would start it. This is why I playing with the single line set up.
 
the two set screws. plugs in the lifter valley where the heads get their oil. these are the small 1/8" ones. you select the drill bit size so you can tap that hole for them. you drill completely though into the oil galley then into the oil feed galley to the heads. you only tap the top hole and then Loctite the plugs in. you should turn the #4 cam bearing upside down and redrill the feed to it from the #4 main. this gives you full time oiling to the heads and no pulse oiling to the rods on each side of the #4 main. all the bearings at #4 now get their supply of oil and don't have to share any with the heads.

before you drill take a extra long drill bit or a 1/4" rod and slide it down into the oil feed to the heads so you can line up the drill bit to get the angle correct. you can see in the pic that the oil feed to the heads isn't in the center of the hump if you look where it is at the deck. matter of fact both sides in the pic aren't even the same so you have to drill at a different angle. see the plugs aren't in the same place on each side. the bottom pic clearly shows how each side is different at the deck. one side is in the center of the hump and the other is off to the back of the hump. line up the bit and drill slow and easy and take your time.
 
bOb shingler said:
the two set screws. plugs in the lifter valley where the heads get their oil. these are the small 1/8" ones. you select the drill bit size so you can tap that hole for them. you drill completely though into the oil galley then into the oil feed galley to the heads. you only tap the top hole and then Loctite the plugs in. you should turn the #4 cam bearing upside down and redrill the feed to it from the #4 main. this gives you full time oiling to the heads and no pulse oiling to the rods on each side of the #4 main. all the bearings at #4 now get their supply of oil and don't have to share any with the heads.

before you drill take a extra long drill bit or a 1/4" rod and slide it down into the oil feed to the heads so you can line up the drill bit to get the angle correct. you can see in the pic that the oil feed to the heads isn't in the center of the hump if you look where it is at the deck. matter of fact both sides in the pic aren't even the same so you have to drill at a different angle. see the plugs aren't in the same place on each side. the bottom pic clearly shows how each side is different at the deck. one side is in the center of the hump and the other is off to the back of the hump. line up the bit and drill slow and easy and take your time.
Click to expand...
I did this oil mod, and left the cam bearings alone, w/ full pressure to both sides, I can`t see it making any diff., it should still hsave full pressure to the main-rod bearings anyway w/ no pulseation??????????bob
 
my theory is if it's not feeding the heads the pressure will not drop at every pulse, which is 2 every revolution. maybe like you say it won't drop because there is already oil pressure in the head feeds from the mod.
 
bOb shingler said:
my theory is if it's not feeding the heads the pressure will not drop at every pulse, which is 2 every revolution. maybe like you say it won't drop because there is already oil pressure in the head feeds from the mod.
Click to expand...

how much oil is too much , I wonder----------bob:eek:ops:
 
Hey Bob I understand now how your changing the top end to full time oiling. Took me a while but I do understand. I wanted to ask your opinion on this different approach that is written over @ moparts.com. There approach blocks off the oil to the lifter gallery with expansion plugs and they then have the #4 cam journal grooved to supply full time top end oiling. Thanks for you time and opinion.
 
grooving the #4 cam journal, not one of the greatest ideas some one came up with. this might be ok on any cam but a roller or a high spring pressure solid. it cost way to much compared to the way I do it.(I didn't come up with this idea) years back I had a roller cam with the #4 journal grooved and after I took the motor down for a rebuild the cam bearing was all messed up from that groove. so never again, not the smartest mod. I don't do any of the lifter oil gallery mods the article mentions, roller lifters cost too much. the enlarging and grinding the 90* turns is an excellent idea as is the drilling of the main feeds. use an oil pump that pumps more than enough oil, remember oil is your friend. class racing is a whole different deal so don't get caught up in that!
 
I agree after reading your method as compared to the one on Moparts. Yours seems like a better less cost method. Thanks
 
If I use the 1/8 set screws plugs like you mentioned. I assume that the size hole you drill into the lifter galley oil supply is 1/8 in diameter? Seems to small to feed the heads? Is this correct? Thanks
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
If I use the 1/8 set screws plugs like you mentioned. I assume that the size hole you drill into the lifter galley oil supply is 1/8 in diameter? Seems to small to feed the heads? Is this correct? Thanks
Click to expand...

I`ve got 1/8" feed holes to each head, but my rockers are all non-roller bearing, or bushed type, w/ .008 to .011 between each set of rockers for side clearance-as recommended by hughs engines. ain`t like its going to be spewing oil freely.
any thots or comments welcome--------bob:coffee2:
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
If I use the 1/8 set screws plugs like you mentioned. I assume that the size hole you drill into the lifter galley oil supply is 1/8 in diameter? Seems to small to feed the heads? Is this correct? Thanks
Click to expand...

when you get the plugs just hold one up and then a drill bit in back on it. the bit should only be the width of the smallest part of the treads. that will leave enough metal to tap. the plug I believe is a 1/4" x 20tpi. later today i'll look at my chart for the correct size bit to use. 1/8" is .125" but the bit will be smaller at around .080"- .090" so that hole is plenty big enough to feed the rockers.
 
Wow it just seems that .080-.090 isn't much compared to the .250 hole where the oil originally went thru the head/head gasket. But you've done it with success so who am I to argue. Plus I've never measured the holes in the cam bearings that feed the heads?
 
the correct drill bit to tap a 1/4" x 20tpi hole is a #7 which is .201" diameter.

the closest bits in a standard bit set is 3/64" which is a little smaller and a 13/64" which is just a tad bigger.
 
I assume you meant 3/16 or 13/64 ? I measured the 13/64 and It is right at .201 so I'll use that bit.
 
Hey Bob shingler,your in box is full,I have a question on this mod,how about restricting oil to the heads,I have Roys block,at 20 psi the oil to the heads seems to be way to much, Mark
 
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